SB4000 Support Thread

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sheadstedford said:
Hey guys, ive just done resistors and diodes on the rev4.0 board and now starting ceramic caps,
C121 is a 10pf cap but im unsure of what way to fit it?
Cap writing facing the resistors or facing the meter calibration pot???
Any help?
Or does it not matter?

Have a look at the build manual; it has a PCB legend. In the legend you can see if a capacitor is polarized or not (because it has a + next to it or not). These are the same icons you find on the PCB itself.
Ceramics aren't polarized, so it doesn't matter. Just be careful when mounting your electrolytics and tantalums.
 
skot_e said:
OK,
so i'm told the rapidshare thing I used has expired with 10 downloads... anywhere that can allow me to leave this file for future? Mike - are you hosting your files?

Save me having to constantly update...

skot_e

www.mediafire.com
 
tzman said:
sheadstedford said:
Hey guys, ive just done resistors and diodes on the rev4.0 board and now starting ceramic caps,
C121 is a 10pf cap but im unsure of what way to fit it?
Cap writing facing the resistors or facing the meter calibration pot???
Any help?
Or does it not matter?

Have a look at the build manual; it has a PCB legend. In the legend you can see if a capacitor is polarized or not (because it has a + next to it or not). These are the same icons you find on the PCB itself.

Yea thanks, just figured it out
Boards lookinf healthy!!!
Ceramics aren't polarized, so it doesn't matter. Just be careful when mounting your electrolytics and tantalums.
 
Just finished all the soldering of components!
It looks awsome, now lets hope it works!!!!
3days for my first project and never really soldered before, think thats pretty fuckin good
 
Heres a pic after day 3 minus a 10k trim pot and couple other components ( coming soon )

http://s1085.photobucket.com/albums/j435/sheadstedford/?action=view&current=ffe21c9a.jpg&evt=user_media_share
 
Hey guys, sorry for the delayed response, just finished a 6 day stretch at the hospital.  Baby is home and doing well, mommy still recovering(unfortunately they had to do a c-section), so pretty busy here at the moment as I'm having to take care of everything.

Skot - I use dropbox, it's nice and it's free.

Rellister - Yes, I fit the 50VA in a parmetal chassis but it wouldn't fit with both rubber cushions and metal bracket (they conveniently don't mention those on the datasheet and they add quite a bit of height).  I got rid of the bottom cushion and used a piece of DMD insulating paper underneath it.  Not sure what enclosure you're using or the height of it, so it may or may not fit with all the hardware, if not you can probably just do something similar to what I did.

Shead - looking great, what's the tube board?  If you can post a higher resolution pic of the boards I can take a look and see if I spot anything.  Also, be sure to download the build doc (if you haven't already) before you fire it up.
 
Hello mate hope you and the family are well!
The tube board is an srpp im gonna impliment as a further booster in output or as a input drive, all for university experimentation!
Thought it would take weeks to put together but done it all in 3 days.
I
Got the build doc! Great help!
Jus wondering about wiring now!!
 
sheadstedford said:
Heres a pic after day 3 minus a 10k trim pot and couple other components ( coming soon )

http://s1085.photobucket.com/albums/j435/sheadstedford/?action=view&current=ffe21c9a.jpg&evt=user_media_share

It may just be the pic but it looks like the resistor 'fix' mike updated only exists on one of the two channels. Looks like you missed R24 & R28.
 
I just read though your docs Mike. Great job. It ranks up there with DripElectronics OPTO LA2A build and may even be better! KUDOS for great work. People need to recognize that a good instruction manual is such a HUGE feature.

I am having a heck of a time following Igor's MixBuzz docs, which I am building now, your kit is FAR more well documented. KUDOS on a great job.
 
Hello, I'got a probleme : (at this moment the pcbs are not in a case and the starground is not made)

When i Switch the bypass OFF/ON I can hear a really big and ugly Click. where does it come from ? BAD power supply ? starground ?(each rails got the right voltage )

 
sheadstedford said:
Any one got any wiring instructions for this badboy?
Im going by the pics in the assembly doc but just wanna make sure im doing it right
???

Shead, not sure what you're after - the build manual lists what ever pin on every connector is for.  Is there a particular spot you're confused on?
 
ruckus328 said:
Do you have your PCB ground tied to mains ground?  When you say "click", do you mean in the audio?

hello, nothing is grounded yet, because the chassis is not there.

(other relays doesnt burst like bypass does (the 'oxford or mono' is okay ) in the audio .)
 
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