SB4000 Support Thread

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Hey maddmike, while this used to be sold as a full kit, I think that it is now available as pcb only. If you want an ssl-style bus comp project that comes as a kit, Sound Skulptor sells a very nice 500 series one.
Hey bud, thanks for the response.
I have seen that, and I’m definitely considering that. I was wondering if you had any insight as to why it was so popular and it seems to have just dropped off. As far as being able to get complete kits easily, compared to now where it seems like it’s been totally abandoned.
 
If you mean with the SB4000 specifically, I just think that Mike shifted more of his focus to the commercial unit production side of Serpent Audio and still offers the diy projects as a kindness. The pandemic and the global supply shortage certainly didn't help, but he was already well down that path by the time that came about.
 
If you mean with the SB4000 specifically, I just think that Mike shifted more of his focus to the commercial unit production side of Serpent Audio and still offers the diy projects as a kindness. The pandemic and the global supply shortage certainly didn't help, but he was already well down that path by the time that came about.
Yeah I can definitely see how the supply chains could effect it. But even just in general, I can’t find one single complete build kit anywhere, from any links that I’ve been able to track down. It just struck me as odd. Thanks for the insight and the suggestions, I really appreciate it.
 
Does anyone on here have the BOM and the Build manual?
I cannot open it or get the Dropbox links to work I just get error messages. I just bought these pcbs but can’t find the pdf or any file for BOM and build manual anywhere. Any help would be much appreciated!
 
Here you go. This is the BOM, build guide, schematic, and the BOM for the Quad VCA if you are going that route.

I have annotated parts of this for my own needs (I changed a few things in my most recent build), so please feel free to ignore those annotations if they are visible when you open the file.
 

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  • Build Guide - SB4000_ASSY_DOC_REV3.pdf
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  • Quad VCA BOM.pdf
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  • Schematic.pdf
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Here you go. This is the BOM, build guide, schematic, and the BOM for the Quad VCA if you are going that route.

I have annotated parts of this for my own needs (I changed a few things in my most recent build), so please feel free to ignore those annotations if they are visible when you open the file.
Thank you so much and for the quick reply! I appreciate it! I’ll admit this is my first build where everything didn’t come in a kit so I’m just trying to source everything for the time being. I do plan on going the quad VCA route.
 
Best of luck with your build! Since you're going the Quad VCA route, some of my annotations on the BOM will be relevant to your build, but of course you'll want to double check them against the Quad VCA document. This thread has been pretty slow in recent times, but if you have any questions, I still pay some attention to the thread and will be happy to try and help where I am able.
 
Best of luck with your build! Since you're going the Quad VCA route, some of my annotations on the BOM will be relevant to your build, but of course you'll want to double check them against the Quad VCA document. This thread has been pretty slow in recent times, but if you have any questions, I still pay some attention to the thread and will be happy to try and help where I am able.
Glad to hear it! Is that what you’ve indicated by circling it in purple on the build manual and what’s been written in red on the BOM?
 
I think everything that I marked/wrote in red on the BOM relates to the Quad VCA.

The things circled in purple on the schematic are the trimpots. Some of them have pre-trim values and others do not, but this is only noted on the schematic (not in the build guide or BOM), so I wanted to make it easy to find them visually.

On the BOM, purple highlights relate to PSU. Yellow relates to the external in / send & returns (which I omitted in my recent build). The yellow stuff you can ignore unless you are interested in doing that, but I think most folks will prefer having the extra flexibility that the stock version offers.

Hope this clarifies a few things. Again, if it's at all confusing, just ignore all of my markings, since they were just notes for myself on my build.
 
That makes perfect sense! If I run into any issues or snags I’ll be sure to ask. Thank you for all the help and advice! I greatly appreciate it!
 
I think everything that I marked/wrote in red on the BOM relates to the Quad VCA.

The things circled in purple on the schematic are the trimpots. Some of them have pre-trim values and others do not, but this is only noted on the schematic (not in the build guide or BOM), so I wanted to make it easy to find them visually.

On the BOM, purple highlights relate to PSU. Yellow relates to the external in / send & returns (which I omitted in my recent build). The yellow stuff you can ignore unless you are interested in doing that, but I think most folks will prefer having the extra flexibility that the stock version offers.

Hope this clarifies a few things. Again, if it's at all confusing, just ignore all of my markings, since they were just notes for myself on my build.
Also I forgot to ask. Since I’m sourcing parts still where did you find the case and panel? The only place I’ve come across is don-audio but I don’t have any experience with them yet.
 
Also I forgot to ask. Since I’m sourcing parts still where did you find the case and panel? The only place I’ve come across is don-audio but I don’t have any experience with them yet.
I may actually have an unused one of the Don Audio enclosures and front panels from my first build. I’d be happy to look tomorrow and see, and if it’s all there I’d definitely part with it for less than retail (plus no overseas shipping costs since we’re both in the States).

Otherwise, Don Audio is good, and I’m quite sure that Frank at frontpanels.de has panels for this as well. Collective cases might also have one (they for sure have the gssl, but I can’t recall if they’ve got the sb4000).
 
Hi guys. I noticed how the manual has a picture with jumper 7 connected. When would this be necessary. Building the version with quad vcas.
 
I may actually have an unused one of the Don Audio enclosures and front panels from my first build. I’d be happy to look tomorrow and see, and if it’s all there I’d definitely part with it for less than retail (plus no overseas shipping costs since we’re both in the States).

Otherwise, Don Audio is good, and I’m quite sure that Frank at frontpanels.de has panels for this as well. Collective cases might also have one (they for sure have the gssl, but I can’t recall if they’ve got the sb4000).
I might have to take you up on that. I’m Just making sure I can source and get everything on order before I commit to the build. Ive got a few projects laying around simply because I can’t get parts for them. All things considered I shouldn’t be surprised. But it’s looking good on this one. I’ll let you know shortly, thank you I appreciate it!
 
Hi guys. I noticed how the manual has a picture with jumper 7 connected. When would this be necessary. Building the version with quad vcas.
If I'm remembering correctly, with the Quad VCA, you only populate the two jumpers on the underside of the board. (I want to say they are JMP 8 & 9, but you'll definitely want to double check me on that, since I'm out of town and not looking at the project).
 
Does anyone know (sorry i’m a noob) if by ‘tie’ grey to violet (for transformer 230V European power) they mean isolate ends with shrink tubing and tie together, or actually connect the two (which would make more sense as this would create one large winding and up the power to required level maybe?) and then shrink tube them (so soldering together).

Thanks for the help!
 

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Does anyone know (sorry i’m a noob) if by ‘tie’ grey to violet (for transformer 230V European power) they mean isolate ends with shrink tubing and tie together, or actually connect the two (which would make more sense as this would create one large winding and up the power to required level maybe?) and then shrink tube them (so soldering together).

Thanks for the help!
For 230VAV you connect both primary windings in series, so you connect/solder the grey to violet wire end and the blue and brown wire ends go to powerswitch, fuse and IEC-inlet. Isolate this grey/violet junction in order to avoid an unwanted touching of your case/box ground. Keep in mind that colour coding of transformer wires are not standarized. Another manufacturer might use different colours or same colours with a different meaning...
 
So, I thought I did something wrong (I was measuring across the wrong pins) but the PSU reads fine both with and without the board plugged in.
However, the calibration hasn't gone so smooth lol.. Perhaps someone can give me some pointers here. Firstly, when I send out a sinewave and monitor the input of the compressor back in the daw, the levels aren't the same. I calibrated (as instructed) the individual channels so that the level is the same when the unit is bypassed or engaged, but yeah, the level between the two is not exactly the same, a couple of DBS off... It's not the cables, I swapped them, same result. Might check the patch-bay (maybe a solder joint there isn't good explaining why one output is slightly quieter...?)

However, the main issue is, that I'm not getting any voltage reading when measuring TP12.

Could there be an issue with VR7? No matter what way I turn, there is no readable voltage. I'm pretty sure I'm in SSL mode (turbo switch on 1/2 and the button is engaged), so it can't be that, I think (just because the manual specifies there is no voltage if you're not in SSL mode in case that happens).

I adjusted TP11 so it reads the same as TP8 (1.113V). TP 10 reads (0.225V).


Another issue (although I couldn't really proceed with the next step seeing the previous step couldn't be completed, when moving the threshold, there is no reduction of gain, the needle doesn't move at all. If it was wired the wrong way, it would probably move the wrong way (right?) the LED works fine.


See this video for more details:



I also noticed how there don't seem to be specific instructions for the trimpots on the quad VCA boards, which I have installed.


Sorry if there are to many questions here haha, I'm just hoping to finally sort this build and make it work ...


 
However, the calibration hasn't gone so smooth lol.. Perhaps someone can give me some pointers here. Firstly, when I send out a sinewave and monitor the input of the compressor back in the daw, the levels aren't the same. I calibrated (as instructed) the individual channels so that the level is the same when the unit is bypassed or engaged, but yeah, the level between the two is not exactly the same, a couple of DBS off... It's not the cables, I swapped them, same result. Might check the patch-bay (maybe a solder joint there isn't good explaining why one output is slightly quieter...?)
It could be an external issue such as the patchbay, but it could also be an internal problem. The best way to determine this before you get too far into your hunt, in my opinion, is this: send your sine wave out to the compressor and measure the AC voltage with your multimeter between pins 2 & 3 on the xlr input jack of each channel. If the channels do not match, then the problem is happening somewhere in your system before the compressor. Now measure the AC voltage between pins 2 & 3 on each xlr output jack (with compressor in but no compression happening). If the inputs matched but the outputs do not, the problem is in the compressor itself -- either calibration still needs tweaking, or there is some misplaced component or something like that. If the VAC on the inputs of both channels matched AND the outputs of both channels matched, but you still have a considerable discrepancy between the channels coming back into your DAW, then the problem is in the system after the compressor.

However, the main issue is, that I'm not getting any voltage reading when measuring TP12.

Could there be an issue with VR7? No matter what way I turn, there is no readable voltage. I'm pretty sure I'm in SSL mode (turbo switch on 1/2 and the button is engaged), so it can't be that, I think (just because the manual specifies there is no voltage if you're not in SSL mode in case that happens).

I adjusted TP11 so it reads the same as TP8 (1.113V). TP 10 reads (0.225V).


Another issue (although I couldn't really proceed with the next step seeing the previous step couldn't be completed, when moving the threshold, there is no reduction of gain, the needle doesn't move at all. If it was wired the wrong way, it would probably move the wrong way (right?) the LED works fine.
I didn't watch the video that you included because I won't be in a position to do so until a little later, but I'm wondering if you have made extra sure that your ICs are all oriented correctly. I've definitely messed that up before and it led to all sorts of incorrect voltage measurements and headaches before I realized what I'd done.

I also noticed how there don't seem to be specific instructions for the trimpots on the quad VCA boards, which I have installed.
The trim pots on the Quad VCA boards are used to calibrate for lowest THD. The info on that is available at the bottom of the first post way back at the beginning of this thread, but I will quote it here as well. However, this step will need to wait until you've sorted out the other issues that you've encountered.

Calibrating for lowest THD with Quad VCA boards:

Easiest way to calibrate THD is feed a 1K test tone into compressor and look at the return signal with a freq analyzer in your DAW. (I recommend to download Blue Cat's Freq analyzer for this.) Distortion node will be seen at 2K, adjust until 2K node is as low as possible.

Engage the "External In" so the sidechain is disabled (Of course be sure there is no external signal being fed to the external input).

Adjust DTRIM Pots (VR3/VR4 on Main Board) for lowest THD. Then turn front panel gain knob to Max (lower the input signal as required so signal doesn't clip). Now adjust the 50K Pots on the VCA boards for lowest THD. Return front panel gain knob to 0. You will need to repeat this process a few times until lowest THD is achieved.
 
I noticed in your video another small issue -- your LED bargraph is lighting only one LED at any given time. This issue is addressed somewhere in this thread, although you may have to dig to find it. I don't recall that it was indicative of any serious problems, but I do know that it is not supposed to function in this way (basically, if the second/third/etc LEDs from the bottom light up, all the ones underneath should remain lit as well).
 

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