Sending Frontpanels: Advise !

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Just a follow up to my original post:

I got my very first frontpanel back today and it looks great !!! When I get the G1176 completely assembled and working, I'll post some pictures.

Thanks again!
 
ok, I was getting ready to put my G1176 together and was thinking that I should probably get something to protect the front panel... perhaps some type of polyurethane or something.

Is that what you guys do? If so, what do you recommend?
 
good stuff greg - glad it turned out nice.. :thumb:

I just sent of my dual 1176 front design n panels of to schaeffer too :) PDF here: http://notapplicable.co.uk/audiolab/1176/FrontDesign%20[1176.pdf

WRT to protecting the panel, I dont bother with stuff goin to/from schaeffer - the panel I sent em was already finsihed in black so just needed cutting and engraving - if it was a bare metal then I'd just spray a few coats of regular metal laquer, then gently rub the shine of with some wire wool...
 
[quote author="daArry"]I just sent of my dual 1176 front design n panels of to schaeffer too :) PDF here: http://notapplicable.co.uk/audiolab/1176/FrontDesign%20[1176.pdf
[/quote]

Hi daArry.

I just looked at your panel...
Its your design... but i would prefer the ratio settings like "4:1... and not 1:4...) or have you changed the board layout so that the compressor don't works as a compressor? :roll: In this case I would change the word "limiter" :wink:
Hmm... and I just looked Jakobs site... and the panel layout says the same... 1:4... and the proto unit is also labeled with 1:4 and the adjusting infos also says 1:4.... and i looked at my first diy urei... and it also says 1:4 :green: :green: :green:

Whats that power switch? Are the screws really bigger than the other screws for "link dual" etc.. ? Because the holes are more than close to the switch itselfs.
And if you want to use vu meters without a bezel you should choose another radius for the meter cutout.. otherwise you'll see round holes in the edges of the meter.

The ratio lettering is smaller than the meter lettering... i would only use two sizes... and the attack and release... slow and fast is another size as the "5" or not?

If you don't want to see screws on the frontpanel you could use threaded bolts from the backside... you have to make a new panel layout (which is actually for only ONE panel) and send it also to schaeffer.

(just some ideas)

Regards,
Frank.
 
Hey Frank

Hmm... and I just looked Jakobs site... and the panel layout says the same... 1:4... and the proto unit is also labeled with 1:4 and the adjusting infos also says 1:4.... and i looked at my first diy urei... and it also says 1:4

Ye, I just used that as I guide when I was layin out...

Whats that power switch? Are the screws really bigger than the other screws for "link dual" etc.. ? Because the holes are more than close to the switch itselfs.

Yes, the link/dual switches are 2mm screws - rest standard M3 dilly...

And if you want to use vu meters without a bezel you should choose another radius for the meter cutout.. otherwise you'll see round holes in the edges of the meter.

Indeed, shudda 0.50'd em ;)

The ratio lettering is smaller than the meter lettering... i would only use two sizes... and the attack and release... slow and fast is another size as the "5" or not?

Ratio type is same as meter ye (and other controls). slow and fast size smaller too...

If you don't want to see screws on the frontpanel you could use threaded bolts from the backside... you have to make a new panel layout (which is actually for only ONE panel) and send it also to schaeffer.

I dun mind seein em :)

(just some ideas)

always appreciated!
 
I have a stupid newbie question. When you send in to Frontpanelexpress, do they just do the screening/engraving, or do they also do the drilling/cutting of the necessary holes and cutouts?
 
[quote author="wiz1der"]o.k. since we're on newbie questions, How do I get my logo into the frontpanel software?

Step by Step please?

Thanks[/quote]

I tried to make a small step by step guidance. But I don't have
the english version of corel draw so I don't know exactly
whats the labelling.. and my english is also not correct.
A little bafflegab :green:
But I hope this will give you an idea how to do it.
(it would be nice if I get a feedback if there are errors and
whats the correct name of the buttons...)

http://www.nrgrecording.de/html/hpgl_diy.html

Frank.
 
Is there a way to export HPGL files out of frontpanel express... I basically only need certain components from the SSL template. Any ideas?
 
Hmm, I think the export filter will export HPGL files...

But... what do you need exactly? Do you need these round scales for the PKES Series Knobs? And for what do you need that? Silkscreen or something like this? Then the HPGL stuff won't help you much.

Frank.
 
Yes, I'm using a Weston meter for my next pair of GSSLs, and I'm having to design a 2U chassis for this because the meter won't fit in a 1U. So I'm after the round scales for the medium and large PKES knobs. I also want to grab the round scales for the Ratio, Attack, and Release.
 
Hey Greg,

I am also going to use the Par-Metal case.

I downloaded Frank's front panel design for the 1176.

Are these little holes necessary with the Par Metal enclosure?

front_panel_question.gif


As you can see, I haven't ordered the enclosure yet.
I'm getting pretty excited though, just modifying Frank's original with my own studio name and different colors, etc.
 
No, u don't need those with the par-metal chassis. I would suggest to get the exact mounting hole placement of the par-metal. You can get this from their website. It might be a little different than what is on Frank's designs. I do this to make sure everything looks the way I want it to. Also, I would suggest placing temporary dummy cavities the exact size of your knobs just to give you a better idea of what your panel will look like. I also print up a wiremode version of the panel in 1:1 scale and lay it on top of the panel to make sure everything is perfect. I do this a my workplace since we have a large plotter. If you don't have access to one, I'm sure kinko's or some printing place could do this for you.
 
Greg, check this out: http://www.nrgrecording.de/PKES_knobs.fpd
I think it isn't a problem to use STRG+C a scale in the PKES_knobs.fpd and STRG+V into your frontpanellayout, it should work. You can change the colour for the HPGL of course. I prefere the 0,4mm graver for these scales.
The scale at the right site was scaled up in corel and scaled down in frontpaneldesigner to avoid polygon stuctures, the circle become smoother. You can change the diameter with changing the scale factur in %.

@kato:
The holes are the standard holes from schaeffer's frontpaneldesigner. Thats only to see how it looks, I always remove all the 8 holes before manufacturing because i use pre drilled frontpanels.

Like greg said... print the panel to check everything...
You don't need a plotter, I use the "tile printing" function to print it on two DINA4 pages. I cut one page with a cutter and tape them together with "tesa". It works great to check what you're doing, really! (at least it helped me) :green:

Please check the angle of rotations. Some pots has 270° another one has 300°...

Regards,
Frank.
 
Hey Greg,

Do you remember which Par-Metal case you used?

They've got so many different options - I'm not even sure how deep the case needs to be.

Thanks, Kato
 
[quote author="Greg"]Do you want a 1U or a 2U chassis?[/quote]

I'm planning to use a 2 space with Frank's panel (this is 2U right?)

fullpanel.gif


with slight modifications to use mnats pushbutton switches.

Thanks for any advice! Kato
 

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