SSL 4K E mic input

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
...Okay, I was wondering if it was a console which I worked on which was similarly updated 'E' with G boards plugged in, which was shipped to Colorado.

Those EQs are the G EQ's also, assuming you hear a slight (and sometimes delayed by a half-second or so) 'click' of a relay after you press or release them. THey have the [x3] and [/3] buttons and no option for Bell or Shelf. -That's the 82E292 board, which was also a 'G' version. A number of people fitted them to 'E' series consoles to update them, but not everyone paid for new knob-caps, so don't go by the knob cap colour to tell you ANYTHING. -EVER. (some people bought black/pink/orange knob caps to make users THINK that the board's EQ had been replaced/updated, without EVER updating the circuitry inside... What's funny is that some users actually heard a difference!!!)

The other G-series upgrade to the 611 modules (all 4000 and 6000 series consoles had SL611E channel strips for mono and SL612E for stereo) was to replace the LOGIC card, and the group summing amp trip pot with a pot which also has a 'pull-up' switch for 'solo-isolate' -Any channel thus solo-isolated was used for FX returns and then didn't solo when a source channel was solo'd... and if you solo'd the return it logically went into AFL/PLF instead of destructive solo (which would of course have killed the source channel(s).

So yours is an 'upgraded' E, it appears. -Personally, I prefer the E EQ to the G EQ, since the E is capable of more useable curves (you cannot do a deep narrow cut on a G because the deeper you cut or boost, the wider the bandwidth becomes... -I hate that!) -After a while, SSL reverted back to offering the 'old' black-knob E-series EQ on all G-seres consoles as standard, and the 'G' (292) version was only sold to those who asked for it (which was rare). For the 9K console they offered a switch to allow either mode of operation (constant-Q versus constant-bandwidth). the other noticeable differences were the loss of Bell/shelf option for HF and LF (an absolute crime, in my eyes!) and the fact that it cuts or boosts by 21dB per band instead of 15dB per band... (if 15dB of boost isn't enough, what the hell are you trying to do to the signal!?!?!?!!!)

Another subtle difference between E's and original G's is the 'split' button on the EQ, IIRC. It's reconfigurable with some trace cutting on the motherboard, but I personally like the 'split' configuration of the 'E' series, so I wouldn't bother.

Keith
 
Keith,
thanks so much for your help and information.

To be honest with all the SSL info that you know and Have, you should probably write a book on the subject.

thanks once more
 
help and information.

Code:
I'm in to change the forum name to prodigypedia or ssl universalis  ;D

a book is a great idea but in kit please...we need to keep the diy tradition!! lol

another great pre, an octo with these babies could be a killer for cheap...
 
signalflow said:


VERRRRRY Nice!

Best,
Mattia.
 
Thank you,  I have not had a chance to test it myself so...if somethings not kosher let me know and I'll fix it.

-Casey
 
glad to see this coming alive. Thanks for the board work. if I find
mor timmmmme!!!!
I'll etch it.. not likely very soon..

Question: is this the preamp in the FX series outboard pre/eq? Really kinda like that one and don't know what console pre it is based on.
 
SSLtech said:
...Okay, I was wondering if it was a console which I worked on which was similarly updated 'E' with G boards plugged in, which was shipped to Colorado.

Those EQs are the G EQ's also, assuming you hear a slight (and sometimes delayed by a half-second or so) 'click' of a relay after you press or release them. THey have the [x3] and [/3] buttons and no option for Bell or Shelf. -That's the 82E292 board, which was also a 'G' version. A number of people fitted them to 'E' series consoles to update them, but not everyone paid for new knob-caps, so don't go by the knob cap colour to tell you ANYTHING. -EVER. (some people bought black/pink/orange knob caps to make users THINK that the board's EQ had been replaced/updated, without EVER updating the circuitry inside... What's funny is that some users actually heard a difference!!!)

The other G-series upgrade to the 611 modules (all 4000 and 6000 series consoles had SL611E channel strips for mono and SL612E for stereo) was to replace the LOGIC card, and the group summing amp trip pot with a pot which also has a 'pull-up' switch for 'solo-isolate' -Any channel thus solo-isolated was used for FX returns and then didn't solo when a source channel was solo'd... and if you solo'd the return it logically went into AFL/PLF instead of destructive solo (which would of course have killed the source channel(s).

So yours is an 'upgraded' E, it appears. -Personally, I prefer the E EQ to the G EQ, since the E is capable of more useable curves (you cannot do a deep narrow cut on a G because the deeper you cut or boost, the wider the bandwidth becomes... -I hate that!) -After a while, SSL reverted back to offering the 'old' black-knob E-series EQ on all G-seres consoles as standard, and the 'G' (292) version was only sold to those who asked for it (which was rare). For the 9K console they offered a switch to allow either mode of operation (constant-Q versus constant-bandwidth). the other noticeable differences were the loss of Bell/shelf option for HF and LF (an absolute crime, in my eyes!) and the fact that it cuts or boosts by 21dB per band instead of 15dB per band... (if 15dB of boost isn't enough, what the hell are you trying to do to the signal!?!?!?!!!)

Another subtle difference between E's and original G's is the 'split' button on the EQ, IIRC. It's reconfigurable with some trace cutting on the motherboard, but I personally like the 'split' configuration of the 'E' series, so I wouldn't bother.

Keith

I also like the E eq better that the G, but in one of my SSL books, there is a circuit for a 82E241 channel card that uses a transformer and 2 5534s.  Any comment on those?
Thanks!
Bruno2000
 
mpc3000limited said:
Has anyone made progress with the stuff shared here yet?

Still have not had the time to get a few of these up and running hopefully by the first of the year.

-Casey
 
I am trying to get all the stuff together to try a self etch version myself. I have the etchant, a photo bulb, photo developer.... Do you have the PCB size these should be?
 
mpc3000limited said:
I am trying to get all the stuff together to try a self etch version myself. I have the etchant, a photo bulb, photo developer.... Do you have the PCB size these should be?

Size is somewhere between 3x2in.  The files I uploaded are 1:1 strait from eagle no re-sizing needed.


-Casey
 
So I'm considering making this project my first full diy.  Looks like about $100 per channel so it's not that bad.  I think I'm going to do a stereo pair.  What's looking good for a power supply here?  I want something that runs kinda hot to get it sounding good unless that's not a good idea here. 
 
Morning_Star said:
So I'm considering making this project my first full diy.  Looks like about $100 per channel so it's not that bad.  I think I'm going to do a stereo pair.  What's looking good for a power supply here?  I want something that runs kinda hot to get it sounding good unless that's not a good idea here. 

I don't think that you want your power supply to be running "hot".  If you want to make sure that you are not under powering your the IC's then make sure you run them at or preferably above their recommended mA rating.  So basicly add up the mA rating for the 2 IC's per channel then add the total of the boards together and multiply by 2 and that is very good place to start your power transformer search.

A good kit power supply can be found either here in the white market via five fish audio or through JLMaudio.com  Both have great solutions for powering this preamp.

-Casey

Also DIY at your own risk I have not tested the layout and if their are errors I'm not aware of them.
 
I'll def be careful.  I'm just going to etch two boards first and then get everything but the transformer until it's populated and looking good.  Then I'll look for a power transformer.  So, what about adding an output transformer like a Lundahl LL1646?
 
Morning_Star said:
I'll def be careful.  I'm just going to etch two boards first and then get everything but the transformer until it's populated and looking good.  Then I'll look for a power transformer.  So, what about adding an output transformer like a Lundahl LL1646?

The option for an output transformer is on the board, as far as what to use or try I leave up to the builder mainly because I'm not entirely sure what type to use myself.

-Casey
 
Back
Top