Stereo 1176 support - Mnats/Hairball

[atticmike]

But the board is required to power two units with one transformer? So I can't stuff both boards and dual wire them?

The separate power supply is not required, but suggested to reduce component count. You can still power two boards each stuffed with power supply components from a single transformer.

You can see an example of a stereo unit wired with the separate power supply board in the photos posted on Reply #21 above.

Please take note of my AC warning above. I believe that many people just ignore the warnings on my page.

Thanks.

So, if we are talking performance / quality / issues, depending on what you'd emphasis, which approach would you suggest?

I don't mind stuffing both power sections because I already bought the components two times.

But if the separate power board will give you a better performance / safer run, of course I'd chose this than instead of stuffing both boards.

Or were you referring to an interference issue when having both sides stuffed?

Mike

 

[atticmike]

Can anybody answer my question?

I'd really appreciate a little help on this decision.

Can't finish my unit until I've sorted out that problem

 

[abechap024]

Can anybody answer my question?

I'd really appreciate a little help on this decision.

Can't finish my unit until I've sorted out that problem

You might get better sonic results because the power supply is off the board. Depends on a lot of factors though. I would just do whatever is easier for you. Both are going to work just fine. IMHO

 

[dandeurloo]

Ok, anyone having problems with the Stereo Link boards read this.

DOUBLE/TRIPLE check your IC's.  I swore I had mine in the correct way.  Then Abe told me he got his to work but he first had his IC's in backwards.  So I double checked and I thought I had them correct.  Then I let it sit for a few weeks and came back to it a decided to TRIPLE check.  Sure enough I had them in the wrong spots.  I bet this has happened more then the 2 time to Abe and myself.  The IC's are labeled in a way that once you put sockets in you may take a quick look and think you are looking at the IC type and see a ***1 or a ***2.  But that is the IC # in the design not the actual TL071.  So the moral is make sure you really look hard and confirm it.

Question:
I now have them working and passing audio once the Link is in.  The they seem to be acting the same with a signal gen and changing the ratio's.  The only thing I have going on is my Left meter doesn't show reduction when switched to GR.  It does show +4 the same as the R channel when linked.  Any thoughts.

Everything works great when not linked. 

Overall this thing sounds really really cool.  Very Rock and Roll.  Thanks Mnats and Hairball and Abe for keeping going the right direction to get this completed. 

 

[abechap024]

Question:
I now have them working and passing audio once the Link is in.  The they seem to be acting the same with a signal gen and changing the ratio's.  The only thing I have going on is my Left meter doesn't show reduction when switched to GR.  It does show +4 the same as the R channel when linked.  Any thoughts.

Are you sure the left channel is compressing? Is the problem limited to just the meter?
Glad to hear you are getting it worked out!

 

[g fin]

Hi all!

(I've already post this on the Lab's main page, I think it's better here. If any moderator can erase the one on the main page?)

I've just finished my Dual G1176 with Mnats PSU. I've already built a fully-working  single unit with the inboard PSU.

My problem is: Unloaded, the PSU give me on the first rail: -10V and +30V on the second, as needed.
When loaded (with any of my two main boards), the -10V remain, but the +30V drop to +5v. The LM317 is becoming very hot.
I observe the same with or without IC's and transistors.

My first question is: With Mnats PSU, do I need to stuff the board with IC's and transistors to get the good PSU voltage (when loaded)?

My second is: I re-checked severall times  the resistors values and the caps orientation on the main board. How could I pursue? Since both boards are faulty and stuffed together, it's probably more a bad component than a short...

Thanks for your help.

 

[dandeurloo]

Are you sure the left channel is compressing? Is the problem limited to just the meter?
Glad to hear you are getting it worked out!
[/quote]

Well, I am pretty sure the left channel is compressing.  It is for sure when they aren't linked.  I think it is working when linked just not showing the GR on the meter?  Thoughts?

 

[g fin]

Up.

Please!

 

[g fin]

Could it be my transfo? It's a 2x22V 30VA, which is by the way perfect for a single unit with inboards PSU, but maybe not for Mnats PSU...

Another remark: when I plug the PSU to both boards, the +30V drop to nearly OV... :-[

 

[g fin]

It's not  :-[

Just bought a 2x25V 30VA: Same problem.

 

[g fin]

I think I found by myself!

I didn't notice this detail on Mnat's boards: they're not configured for using  BD517 and BD518 contrary to Gyraf's one.

Will add jumpers on the board, and reverse them to get the right pin out.

Good point: I'm triple sure of my resistances and capacitors values!

So confused! :-[

 

[kante1603]

Hi,

don't know this piece,but if a voltage drops down to 0v when you plug something in there must be short somewhere.
Measure the dc inputs on the mainboard refering to 0v/gnd with your multimeter set to ohms.
If anything is zero ohms then there is a short.

Udo.

 

[Brotastic]

I apologize in advance if this too much of a noob question.  I have looked through the stereo link support thread and many others ....as well as the mnats site, but I can't find the specific parts and the best place to get them for the toggle switches, the led, the stepped pots for meter, and knobs for the 2-1176.  I would very much appreciate any info on these things.  Thank you.

Dan

 

[belac]

I have ran into a problem I am working on a REV A v1.25 and the instructions say to take pads X and Y on the meter board to the X and Y pads on the Main board... only problem is there is no X and Y on the main board, also there is no G pad

 

[Echo North]

I have ran into a problem I am working on a REV A v1.25 and the instructions say to take pads X and Y on the meter board to the X and Y pads on the Main board... only problem is there is no X and Y on the main board, also there is no G pad

Really?  Read it again:
http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_meter_circuit.html

I don't think it says that at all.

 

[belac]

I have ran into a problem I am working on a REV A v1.25 and the instructions say to take pads X and Y on the meter board to the X and Y pads on the Main board... only problem is there is no X and Y on the main board, also there is no G pad

Really?  Read it again:
http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_meter_circuit.html

I don't think it says that at all.

sorry I was referring to http://mnats.net/1176-wiring-rotary.html because I am building a stereo version

 

[Echo North]

Same process.  X and Y connect to the output XLR.

 

[dandeurloo]

Just wanted to post an update.  I have been slowly tweaking away on my stereo 1176.  I've been testing and trying a number of different things.  A number of you very helpful member's here have guided me along the way.  Well today was the day I finished all my tweaking and am finally happy with the compressors.  I wanted to say thank you for all your help with it,  it's moving off the bench and into a rack!

One thing I think that made the biggest difference with my build was to remove the stereo link boards and replace it with a 600r output termination switch.  I was able to get my 2 channels close enough that the few times I would use link will be fine without the link boards.  The matching was pretty close!  But the added benefit of being able to switch the 600r in and out was huge (both channels on a stereo switch).  That is one a number of you guys may want to try or heck its DIY just add a few holes and have both link and the 600r's on the outputs.

The other thing was I calibrated my meters to -4 db of reduction not the -10 in the Mnats videos.  I am more concerned about the accuracy with in 5db of reduction.  If I am pulling 10 db its all about slamming it then so its ok if they are off a little.  That also helped with my channel matching to a degree.

Anyway thanks.  Now to finish a few more projects!

 

[mltamisin]

I'm noticing 1 of the jumpers on the power supply section of the main board connects CR8 to R85. I have a V2.2 board and R85 isn't on the power section. It's part of the signal preamp section. Is R81 the new jumper location?

 

[tonycamp]

Hi fella's,

anyone have a picture of a dual layout they believe works well? Mnats pictures have his toroid and IEC set in the middle, he suggested putting it to one side, and far away from the output circuit, or potentially using some dividing metal shield. I am building 4 pairs (6 rev D's and 2 rev A's), and using his double PSU board for power, so i can put stuff where ever?
I just want to make double sure i don't weld everything down in a footprint i will regret later

thanx for any help, i will post up a bunch of pics in a bit.
T