Electrobumps
Well-known member
I have a new method, do not use detergents, solvents or chemicals, make sure machine is set to cold and hook the inlet up to distilled water. Do not spin and air dry afterwards.
What sort of brush to clean capsules?
- Thread starter Icantthinkofaname
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
don't forget to windex the tube!! fingerprints make the mic sound smudged
k brown
Well-known member
You're gonna wanna hide this photo from your clients . . .
francoislchatel
New member
Neumann uses a paint brush da vinci maestro #3 tobolsky 10, with distilled water brush from circumference to center, remove with optical paper.
Well ... maybe not! I suspect many clients want a truly "clean" recording . . . Anonymous
Icantthinkofaname
Well-known member
That felt a bit sterile.
Icantthinkofaname
Well-known member
I'm just cleaning a B2 Pro that sounds noisier than it should. Cleaning the PCBs didn't help, so far guessing it's either dust on the capsule or I missed where the PCB is contaminated.
Even though I know this is a joke, it hurts me someplace to see those mics like that.
k brown
Well-known member
Can't deny though, that sucker is now clean!
Windex, steel wool (start with coarse) and 200psi air blast to clean off the steel shards work wonders. 
Seriously though, I’ve used the Sable watercolour artist brushes - the sable hairs have a very fine tapered shaft and terminate in a superfine tip which will not dent the Mylar. I use the round fairly large long taper.
This can be done dry - very gently with the brush at an angle and never straight on, working around the diaphragm and cleaning the brush often with a tiny blast from camera lens canned air (down the hairs to keep the shape).
They can be dipped in distilled water for stubborn deposits - as the brushes hold a lot of water you need to make sure to squeeze off the excess on the edge of the water container - the brushing needs to be very gentle to prevent any particles scratching the surface, wetting first then I rotate the brush as I move it to pick up any crud. Then - rinsing the brush and repeating until the surface has no speckles of dirt, then drying as I go with a dry sable brush with a constant flow of cool to warm air from a hair dryer clamped at a distance on low speed (the hair dryer is never used for anything else).
I would be reluctant to flood a diaphragm as it could take weeks for any internally trapped moisture to evaporate.
Seriously though, I’ve used the Sable watercolour artist brushes - the sable hairs have a very fine tapered shaft and terminate in a superfine tip which will not dent the Mylar. I use the round fairly large long taper.
This can be done dry - very gently with the brush at an angle and never straight on, working around the diaphragm and cleaning the brush often with a tiny blast from camera lens canned air (down the hairs to keep the shape).
They can be dipped in distilled water for stubborn deposits - as the brushes hold a lot of water you need to make sure to squeeze off the excess on the edge of the water container - the brushing needs to be very gentle to prevent any particles scratching the surface, wetting first then I rotate the brush as I move it to pick up any crud. Then - rinsing the brush and repeating until the surface has no speckles of dirt, then drying as I go with a dry sable brush with a constant flow of cool to warm air from a hair dryer clamped at a distance on low speed (the hair dryer is never used for anything else).
I would be reluctant to flood a diaphragm as it could take weeks for any internally trapped moisture to evaporate.
Might be some fermentation going on inside that!
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