Yamaha NS10 crossover rebuild drop-in PCB

[zzzzz]

Wasn't sure what subforum to post this in but figured it would be useful for some people. Spun this PCB for a friend who wants a clean and simple way to recap their Yamaha NS10s with affordable radial caps from Mouser or elsewhere. This PCB is NOT YET CONFIRMED but I measured my own NS10s to get the dimensions correct so it should pop in just fine.



Just gut every single thing from the crossover panel and remember the color coding of the wires for the woofer and tweeter (which can be found on the very easy to find NS10 wiring diagram). Save the screws and this should bolt right in place of where the terminal strips were previously located.

• The inductor leads solder into their respective pads on this PCB which are physically placed on the layout close to where their respective terminal strips would have been.
  
  
• For caps, the footprint is for 31.5mm x 20mm (ish) big film box caps with 27.5mm lead spacing, although I'm sure you can sandwich in some axials or find other options easily.
  • Good C1 options include: TDK/Epcos B32714H5106K000, or Wima MKS4C051006B00JSSD, among others. You could probably fit a big ol' axial capacitor, as well.
    
    
  • Good C2 options include: TDK/Epcos B32674D4565K000, or Panasonic ECQ-E2565JF among others.
    
• For the speaker connections, I put a footprint for spade connectors (TE Connectivity # 63849-1) if you want to crimp terminals onto your wires, or you can just solder directly to the pads (or spade connectors if you get them!)
  
  
• Fuse holders are standard 5x20. General consensus from what I recall is to fuse the tweeter with 0.75A and the woofer with 1.5A, both fast blow -- this is what I've always done although I think I was also once told to use 1A for the tweeter. Can just be the pin holders if you want (such as Tayda Part # FC-53-11 -- see that data sheet for specs) rather than a full box, but the footprint is for a Keystone part. Some people are against fusing NS10s or passive speakers in general, so in that case just jump the pads for the holders. You could also obviously mount fuse holders on the external side of the crossover panel (or front of the speaker) and just wire them directly to their respective pads on this PCB.

As we all know, NS10s are not necessarily supposed to be great speakers. The actual value of C2 is 5.4u ish because it is two 2.7u axial electrolytics in parallel. I've used 5.6u caps in NS10s before for C2 with no issue, especially considering I've seen the two original paralleled C2 caps drift waaaay far from what they should be in some examples.

Gerbers and schematic are available below.

 

[user 130681]

Is a ECW-FG60106J really what you want?
Look at the life expectancy at 60% power factor; 1000 Hours only, as is ECW-FG60565JA.

 

[sodderboy]

That’s a great card, but internal fuses for NS10 speakers in my world would make them unusable. They would be off-console, waiting for a refuse all the time.
I dual-fused for someone who wanted it in the early oughties, and they abandoned it quickly for single 1.5 ACG.
I’ve been mounting fuse holders on a 1U panel in control rooms for ages.

The real problem is that they do not make facial tissues same as they did in the 80’s!
Mike

 

[zzzzz]

That’s a great card, but internal fuses for NS10 speakers in my world would make them unusable. They would be off-console, waiting for a refuse all the time.
I dual-fused for someone who wanted it in the early oughties, and they abandoned it quickly for single 1.5 ACG.
I’ve been mounting fuse holders on a 1U panel in control rooms for ages.

The real problem is that they do not make facial tissues same as they did in the 80’s!
Mike

That’s a great idea re: putting the in line fuse on a panel

I have never actually run into a circumstance where I’ve blown a fuse in any NS10, whether the woofer and tweeter had their own fuses or they were fused in-line from the power amp, so the fuses being internal was a design choice for me and my own experience.

Also, tissues