Feeler: EZ Tube Lunch Box

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks, Ian. You're quite right, HT is with nothing attached. Good to know this will be okay. I guess I'll try a slightly lower value for  r9. Should I be shooting for 12V or 12.6V (I seem to recall seeing both values somewhere)?

Ralph
 
rmaier said:
Thanks, Ian. You're quite right, HT is with nothing attached. Good to know this will be okay. I guess I'll try a slightly lower value for  r9. Should I be shooting for 12V or 12.6V (I seem to recall seeing both values somewhere)?

Ralph

The spec for the tube heaters is 12.6V plus or minus 10%. You generally try to avoid going over 12.6V as it shortens the tubes life. 10% below 12.6V is 11.34V. I try to get within 5% which is 12V or above. The only problem with adjustable regulators is that some of them have fairly poor tolerances on the internal voltage reference - for the LM317 it is plus or minus 4% whereas in the LT1084V it is less than half of that. The LM317s I have tried tend to have below nominal reference voltages so I have ha d to change R8 from 110 ohms to 100 ohms to get it closer to 12.6V. If you are using an LM317 I would suggest you try that first. with a 1.25V reference, the schematic values of R8 and R9 should give exactly 12.6V and I have found that with an LT1084V it is very close to this value.

Cheers

Ian
 
Thanks, Ian. I'm using an LD1084V:

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LD1084Vvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-LD1084V

I'll try lowering r8 and see what happens.

Ralph
 
I just took a closer look at this and noticed that both the schematic and BOM  specify 120r for r8, rather than 110 as you mention here. I guess that would explain my low heater voltage! ;D
Ralph
 
rmaier said:
I just took a closer look at this and noticed that both the schematic and BOM  specify 120r for r8, rather than 110 as you mention here. I guess that would explain my low heater voltage! ;D
Ralph

Ah, that explains it. I discovered this when commissioning the 28HP built in power supply for the the LunchBox and I updated that version of the schematic. The standard (external) PSU is slightly different (it has a larger value cap for the 48V fior instance) and I need to update that and its BOM too.

Cheers

Ian
 
I'm finishing the metalwork for the PSU and getting ready to populate my V2 preamp boards.  The most recent build guide says, "If you have a V2 board just fit 220r resistors wherever you see 680r on the silkscreen." However, the schematic still calls for 680r resistors in two places. I've attached and image of what I hope is correct, but could use some reassurance.

Thanks!
Ralph
 

Attachments

  • ClassicPCBv2.jpg
    ClassicPCBv2.jpg
    1.1 MB
You have picked the right ones! The other two are grid stoppers. Their value is not critical which is why I said just fit 220R in them all. But  by all means fit 680R in those two positions.

Cheers

Ian
 
last month in this post:

http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=53765.msg748839#msg748839

I posted the results so of some tests I did using the 12AU7 tube as a mu follower to provide us with a 12V heater single stage gain make up amp. The performance was not brilliant but probably good enough.

A few days ago I came across a discussion about another tube, the 5687 which has the same mu as the 12AU7  but it has a higher gm and a lower plate resistance which should mean lower distortion. I don't generally use tubes that are only available as NOS but it seems there are quite a lot of Philips ones on the market and they are also available from reputable suppliers like Colomor. So I purchased one from Colomor and it arrived yesterday. A quick sim indicated the cathode resistors needed changing to 470 ohms for about 10mA plate current so I modded the board I had used for the 12AU7 tests, plugged in the tube and powered up the test equipment.

Nothing.

Powered down, put the 12AU7 back in, powered up and there was a signal. Even though its bias was not optimal the 12AU7 was working. To cut a long story short, the 5687 has a different pin out to all the standard 12A*7 series!!! So I cut a couple of traces and added a couple of wire links and tried again - and I am pleased to say this time the 5687 worked.

I carried out the same tests on it as I did on the 12AU7. Here is a comparison of the 1KHzdistortion versus output level into a 10K load via a VTB2281 transformer:

Code:
Level                  12AU7 Dist'n %                    5687 Dist'n %
+4dBu                     0.39                               0.23
+10dBu                    0.28                               0.14
+15dBu                    0.33                               0.21
+20dBu                    0.53                               0.35
+24dBu                    0.90                               0.59

The 5687 definitely has lower distortion at all levels ; in most cases at least 3dB and in others as much a 6dB so I think it is a worthwhile improvement. If it had the same pin out as all the other 12A*7 series I would not hesitate to recommend it. However, there are only two pins that are different so I think it is worth looking at a PCB layout that has jumpers to allow you to use either tube. I will see if I can incorporate this into the self contained EQ buffer design.

Cheers

Ian
 
Lunch Box Enclosure update:

I have been having a discussion with Frank Rollen (frontpanels.de) and one or two group members about an alternative  lunch box enclosure. The reasons for this and the results of those discussions are set out below:

The Eurorack enclosure for the lunch box and the power supply have always been a bit of a problem. Although all makes of Eurorack meet the same specification, they are all slightly different and often this means DIYers have to hunt for a local supplier, find all the parts they need and then order them. The built in power supply does work, but it uses up two modules and it is a bit of a tight squeeze inside, which some DIYers might struggle with.

With these thoughts in mind began a discussion with Frank Rollen (frontpanels.de) who I use for all my custom  front and rear panels. He has recently introduced a new range of 19inch rack mounting enclosures http://www.frontpanels.de/nrg-case-19-enclosures/. This  is very interesting to me for all kinds of projects because they have some very neat features and they are not very expensive. For example, the sides are made from steel and have plenty of slots in them. Although these are intended principally for ventilation, they are perfect anchor points for output transformers (a VTB2291 fits perfectly). This saves a lot of measuring, drilling and de-burring. The sides also include useful earth bonding points. The top and bottom are aluminium which will minimise magnetic conduction throughout the case. The front and back are aluminium and Frank provides Front Panel Designer outlines of both so you can easily add in the specifics for your project. This may sound like an advert for Frank's products but I am really impressed how appropriate these are for the DIYer.

One particularly interesting feature is the mounting bars he offers as accessories. These have 500 series module mounting points at 1.5 inch intervals. You can also fit the same mounting bars further back to mount backplane PCBs. There is space for 10 standard 500 series modules.

Now I don't do 500 series modules; my modules are 2.8 inches wide. However, it occurred to me if I made front panels that were 3 inches wide instead, they would exactly fit two 500 series slots. Five of them would fit in Franks enclosure.

The other good thing about Frank's enclosure is that it is 300mm deep - this is deeper than most of the standard Euro racks I use and it means it should be possible to squeeze in a power supply behind the backplane PCB instead of having to use module space for it. It will therefore be more open and accessible and easier to build and maintain.

The bottom line is I could see the possibility of a standard enclosure with built in power supply that could hold up to five 3 inch modules. It also happens to be at least 20% cheaper than the Euro racks I currently use.

Frank sent me a 3U case to try this out. I have designed a 5 slot 3 inch pitch motherboard, with fixings compatible with Frank's mounting bars, and a new power supply PCB both of which are now being made. To save space, the power supply board only contains phantom power and HT  supplies as I plan to run the heaters from 12VAC instead of dc (I recently did some tests in the prototype lunch box that showed using AC heaters did not affect noise or hum performance of my mic pre boards). This means the power supply PCB is only 100mm by 100mm and should fit behind the motherboard in Frank's enclosure

The other day I did a trial assembly yesterday to see if everything would fit in the box. The attached picture shows a top view of the results. You can see there is room behind the motherboard on the left side wall for two output transformers. On the right wall can go the mains transformer. The PCB next to it is an old spare 100mm by 100mm PCB that I used to represent the power
supply PCB. The mains inlet socket can go behind it on the rear panel. I used one of the 6 module motherboards for the test.

So far it looks pretty good.

This does not affect the original Lunch Box concept. You can still use a Euro rack to build a 6 slot version with external power supply or a 4 slot version with internal power supply. However, I suspect the 5 slot version with built in power supply will be very attractive and I can see it eventually replacing the other versions simply because it standardises a hole range of things like fixing holes and will make it more of a DIY exercise than a design and purchasing exercise for most constructors.

Also, since there should be just enough room to get the power supply board in behind the motherboard in a Eurorack, then the 4 slot version could use this power supply instead of the two module wide power supply as at present. This then provides a 2 slot wide front panel space which can be used for meters, faders, XLRS etc.

In theory, the new power supply will also fit behind a 6 slot motherboard in a Eurorack. However, this leaves very little space if you need a full complement of output transformers for example. I am sure there will be some occasions where it will work, but if it does not then the external power supply is always an option.

As always, thoughts and comments are appreciated.

Cheers

Ian
 

Attachments

  • basicassembly.png
    basicassembly.png
    808.6 KB
Looking good Ian :)
Looking at the picture, I do have a 1U version of this enclosure at my desk for a gssl.
It's thin metal, and screwing it I lost bushing threading for a couple of holes,
but checking better it was the screws threading that was broken. So, no blame to the case after all.
Budget, but ok I believe :)
 
Good day Ian,
    Just for the sake of brainstorming would it be very difficult for Frank to do a custom mounting rail for eurocards? 
Also big thanks, i got the helios pcbs, just came back from my trip and still jet lagged...  :eek:

Regards,

Pierre
 
anjing said:
Good day Ian,
    Just for the sake of brainstorming would it be very difficult for Frank to do a custom mounting rail for eurocards? 

Yes and no. Frank can do it. I asked him but he said to make it economical he would have to order at least 100. Also, it would not be possible to fit in 6 modules because the fixings for the rack ears are on the inside of the case rather than the outside as in a Eurorack sub-rack. So even with standard width modules we could still only get 5 in the available space. This means we need a 5 module motherboard so it made sense to make it compatible with the existing mounting bars.
Also big thanks, i got the helios pcbs, just came back from my trip and still jet lagged...  :eek:

Regards,

Pierre

Hope you had a good holiday. Back to work for a rest???

Cheers

Ian
 
I finally got round to getting all the parts together to build the EZEQ prototype - the one that works in the NFB of an EZTube MIxer amp. The PCB is very simple and, by adding one link I made it single sided. It is a small board and I did not want to get 10 made through somewhere like Iteadstudio - I just needed one prototpe. After some searching on line I came across a guy in the UK who has a PCB CNC machine who does prototypes very cheaply. I sent him the Gerber files for the EZEQ PCB and he is charging me £5 for a prototype. I will let you know how the board turns out.

This is such a simple single sided board that I am happy to make the Gerbers available to anyone who wants to make their own.

Cheers

Ian
 
I have good news and bad news... The good news is that I've finished the build, fired it up, and the preamps passed the smoke test. The bad news is that I'm getting nothing but a very loud, constant buzz from every channel! Since my troubleshooting skills are virtually non-existent, I'm posting a few pictures in the hopes that I've missed something fairly obvious. Any advice on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Ralph
 

Attachments

  • PSU.jpg
    PSU.jpg
    1.9 MB
Ins, out, and grounding. The top wire running horizontally straps inputs together for phantom.
 

Attachments

  • InOutClose.JPG
    InOutClose.JPG
    784.5 KB

Latest posts

Back
Top