3D "AIR" EQ - "Night EQ" PCB's Complete!

[khstudio]

[quote author="MattiasC"]Is an 18-0-18v toroid acceptable for this or can I get by with a 15-0-15v?[/quote]

I didn't like the 18v. The regs got VERY HOT.
15v works great & for some reason sounded better... less "Stressed" sounding to me. :?

 

[clintrubber]

[quote author="khstudio"]There's a BYPASS for comparing.[/quote]
Sure, but as we know boosting any band increases level so makes most of whatever boosting was done 'better' in our perception.
Hence the 'need' for a level-adjustment to make a fair judgement possible: was the new non-flat EQ-setting really an improvement or did it sound better because it was louder ? (sanity check)
Actually strange the original didn't already have this...

Adding a level-control (1) would have been easy (so a plus), (2) would have changed the 'original' appearance (negative) and (3) would have given an even more cramped front panel (negative), but (4) would have made it easier to spot the versions of the eBay-cigarette-lighter-solder-cloners (positive side effect)...

#3 - I THINK it's just Pending.

OK, I understand. The rear panel legending seems indeed more solid evidence than the sweetwater-quote.

#4 - I'm not sure I should say this or not but Nightpro (or at least the "AIR" technology) was purchased by BOSE.

Then that must be because of a granted patent I guess, otherwise I don't see why they would transfer any money.
Note this is meant in all respect: it's not clear to me what kind of 'technology ' is going on here. Active filter design as we knew it already I'd say. Mackie had something of 'air' as well (15kHz bandpass I thought) and ther have been more ideas towards the same goal.
But the patent-world etc can be strange, so who knows. And please ignore the fact that I have the bad habit of being a bit itchy about people calling obvious things 'a new technique'

Since the word is out there already, where did you hear about this ?

Regards,

Peter

 

[khstudio]

Trust me... it's not just volume boost that makes you like this EQ.
Yes, it's a WIDE Q but that's what's nice about it.

Since the word is out there already, where did you hear about this ?

Regards,

Peter

I can't say, sorry.

 

[clintrubber]

[quote author="khstudio"]Trust me... it's not just volume boost that makes you like this EQ.
Yes, it's a WIDE Q but that's what's nice about it.[/quote]

Hey, I read your reply a few hours ago, just returned now and wanted to reply, but the stuff on which I wanted to reply is gone :wink:
What to do now :roll:

All fine, please be confident that my words above were not meant as criticism or such - just that in general it'd be a more 'honest' comparison when levels are unchanged.

Since the word is out there already, where did you hear about this ?

Regards,

Peter

I can't say, sorry.

OK, I understand. I recall a conversation when we were doing a project for Bose - I asked something about this or that.
"I could tell you but then I have to kill you", was the reply. Note that things like this are funny but often also a method to hide that there's actually nothing special going on :wink:

Which makes me wondering if ongoing 'patent applied fors' can be found somewhere - never thought about that before.

Bye,

Peter

 

[khstudio]

I removed what I posted because of what you said in another thread.

I have misjudged people & especially their WORDING many times on the internet.

I do understand your point about the Volume levels & perception.
It's just a little late in the game... especially for those who bought cases.

If you REALLY wanted to compare - track to a computer & normalize the 2 tracks.

Lets move on :green:

 

[Purusha]

I am in for the group buy of those Omeg pots :thumb:
Just got the price quote from Omeg and it's not even close to the price mentioned in the group buy.

Any confirmation on the price yet?

Only downside I see is that group buys tend to drag too long ...

 

[Slenderchap]

I have ordered them already from Omeg....

If you want to do a "Group Buy".... be my guest... and I will cancel the order.

Colin.
www.audiomaintenance.com

 

[Purusha]

Great news Colin! Sorry, I completely forgot that we are not doing the group buy through black market...

At Omeg they said waiting time is 4 weeks so I guess it can't be that much longer for 1000 pcs, right?

You can send me payment details to my email. I can pay for them when you have the final cost together minus the shipping as I will send the courier to pick them up.

 

[Slenderchap]

I just stuck 500 of these on the back of one of our other Omeg orders.

I figured that a few people wouldn't want to wait so would be tempted into using the inferior quality Alpha pots from Great Bear?

Just to clarify.... all the Omeg pots are "conductive polymer"... we just refer to them as "Carbon" out of habit as they were originally simple carbon pots.... but all Omeg pots have been "conductive polymer" for many years.

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com

 

[Purusha]

I just sent you email with my order :thumb:

 

[sysexguy]

Hi all, a couple of questions and notes:

1) gonna do the Omeg, easier and I my idea (5 pages ago) had a major blonde moment :roll:

2) Can someone explain to me why c1/c14/c15 are so BIG??? similar coupling caps in my LA-2A are 0.1uf (sorry if this is NOOB 101)

3) This all came up as the 470uF/63V in the previously posted BOM will not fit, the leads require a re-drill (easy) and they take up about 3mm more in diameter. Plan B?

4) same BOM, the ceramic bypass caps in the mouser list are not conforming with the note

For Ceramic caps try & use NPO/COG types rather than X5/Y7 types

Why is this suggestion made?

5) the filter cap array for the shelve won't have room for the .47 WIMA...I had to make a bridge and mount it on top (pic to follow)

6) the .1uF Wima's (signal caps) are quite tight especially the pair that lives close to the IC. one has to put them in together.....reminds me of my niece and nephew when they fight to sit in front of the computer :roll:

Andy

 

[khstudio]

What BOM are your referring to?
If it's NOT from KEVIN (ME) OR PETER.. I don't think it's been checked!!!

2) Can someone explain to me why c1/c14/c15 are so BIG???

The ORIGINAL UNIT used 25v/470uf in these spots.
I think Peter suggested 63v to be safe... but I can see your point the more I think about it.
A 470/63v would be HUGH for this spot on the PCB!

4) same BOM, the ceramic bypass caps in the mouser list are not conforming with the note
Quote:
For Ceramic caps try & use NPO/COG types rather than X5/Y7 types
Why is this suggestion made?

5) the filter cap array for the shelve won't have room for the .47 WIMA...I had to make a bridge and mount it on top (pic to follow)

6) the .1uF Wima's (signal caps) are quite tight especially the pair that lives close to the IC. one has to put them in together.....reminds me of my niece and nephew when they fight to sit in front of the computer Rolling Eyes

Andy

I had no problems finding (the correct) components to fit the PCB.

I take NO responsibility for BOMs or Parts list I didn't check!
I think the 470/63v caps may be a problem & ARE on the BOM I checked... sorry. I would stick with 25v caps in these spots unless you can find 63v caps to fit.

LOOK AT THIS PIC!

THE .22 & .47 ARE BOTH WIMA'S
c1/c14/c15 are 25v/470uf
The ALL fit!

 

[sysexguy]

The BOM I was refering to is http://www.twin-x.com/groupdiy/albums/userpics/Nite_EQ_Parts_-_fIXED-MOUSER.xls posted on http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=22102&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=405 pg 28.

I apologize if my post caused any offense (?). I am well aware that this is DIY and we are all responsible for our component choices and need to make intelligent decisions. I am also aware that DIY involves sometimes buying extra parts and carefully resoldering. In this case, I think I'll be fine as is but I thought it would be best to share my experience so that both myself and others could benefit.

I really appreciate all the efforts that went into making this project and in no way wish to imply that the project has any issues. :thumb:

best,

Andy

 

[khstudio]

I am NOT offended at all... I am also trying to save other of the same problem. :wink:

The PIN SPACING is correct on the BOM = 5mm
What is your pin spacing on the parts you ordered :?: c1, 14, 15

For Ceramic caps try & use NPO/COG types rather than X5/Y7 types

This is CORRECT!

4) same BOM, the ceramic bypass caps in the mouser list are not conforming with the note
Quote:
For Ceramic caps try & use NPO/COG types rather than X5/Y7 types
Why is this suggestion made?

This is where the conflict lies!!!
The NITE EQ BOM (posted by Peter & myself) is NOT a MOUSER PARTS LIST :?

You said "the same BOM then you refer to a MOUSER parts list" ...
What Mouser parts list???

After Years of DIY I realize that ordering parts can be as hard as building.
There's MANY options, sizes & Types that do & don't work... it's part of the FUN. :razz: Ordering parts is my least favorite thing to do but over the years I've gotten better at it. There's no getting around it.

 

[peterc]

Andy

See the thread about the 63v caps, for Phantom protection. I used Rubicon YXF series which are 12.5mm diameter.

Check the BOM for pin spacing of the caps, if the pins are right, the cap should fit.

X5/Y7 are generally not used in better audio products, they are terribly non-linear.

If the .1uF are too big, make sure you are using 50v or 63v parts. These are smaller than 100v or higher. Some substrates are bigger than others, e.g. ceramic vs. poly.

Peter

 

[sysexguy]

Hi guys, thanks for the help, the list I linked was posted on this forum, took your BOM (?) and added some mouser codes and was posted back on this forum (the link is the mousered list). As the BOM states CHECKED & UPDATED BY KEVIN - KHStudio on 7-25-07 I had wrongly assumed that this was endorsed by the gurus of NEQ .....which is why all tech docs should be dated.

the bypass cap tip is most appreciated, a little extra work but it'll be worth it.

Ordering parts is my least favorite thing to do but over the years I've gotten better at it.

Imagine if you had a $35-$50 brokerage fee on top of every order and one always forgets something :evil: oh well (Digikey and Allied excepted thankfully)

I hope this all is helpful to someone else who's in the parts ordering process right now.

Andy

 

[sysexguy]

so Digikey 445-2613-ND looks like the best option (for the bypass caps) at $1.85ea for 25 (stocked and not $5+ea)? any other suggestions?

Andy

 

[Jed]

Folks,

I posted the BOM and as I explained when I posted it, it’s there for review and editing. I’m quite certain there are errors, and now they are being found. I haven’t ordered anything yet and I don’t want to cause someone else any heartache for any mistakes I’ve made.

I’ll try to fix this error later today or tonight when I’ve got some time. I’ll also make some notes on the other posts so that folks know the BOM contains incorrect info.

Apologies,

Jed

 

[khstudio]

Jed,
It's OK man. :thumb:
I know your trying to help.

My point is... EVERYONE getting involved in DIY at some point NEEDS to learn about the parts, lead spacings, values, types, etc...

Trust me guys... I was new at this too & still hate it but you will learn & it will go a LONG WAY.

 

[Jed]

Baleeted due to request from Kevin.