All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

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I think this might be stupid response, but is you input trannie step down or 1:1? I had mine 1:1 and there was just way to much compression happening. Having the input pot about an 8th of the way would give me compression. I flipped it to 2:1 and it is much more natural and like the original.

Brandon 
 
Hey gswan i think i found what the problem was with the cable in pad 4 (remember i told you that when i placed my hand near, the unit would go down?), i actually found that it was a grounding problem, i checked ground connections, cleaned the fets, and no more problems. Still, i know this has been posted to death, but, i have a simple question. We all know the input is very high so with little gain, the GR will go sky high. So my question is this, i already finished one unit, im planning on doing a second one. In this first one im using the NE5532 input stage. On the other one i plan to use an OEP input trannie. In the NE5532 version should i use a T-attenuator, or this can be skipped if i use an input trannie with the ratio set to 2:1?
 
In my first 1176 I used the option of Lundahl input wired 2:1 ( reversible on the mnats board )
This worked very well and is well documented.
No "gain" issues on the input or "over limiting" going on.

MM.
 
Thanks Jakob....did a search within this thread yeah seems other found the same....Casrec I dont have transformer input thanks for asking tho ....I take it the IC input is same as 1:1 input tran, is it ?

Anyway if I understand correct theres kinda 4 possible ways to raise threshold well 5 if you count the 2:1 transformer

So either try 2N5457 FETs
470K in series with R26 56k
100K wiper to 56K leg to ground leg to OP pot
or 3K7 in place of R1a

Im not sur about the last one....
 
gary o said:
Anyway if I understand correct theres kinda 4 possible ways to raise threshold well 5 if you count the 2:1 transformer

So either try 2N5457 FETs
470K in series with R26 56k
100K wiper to 56K leg to ground leg to OP pot
or 3K7 in place of R1a

The first one probably won't make any difference, since the unit is calibrated to operate in the same manner no matter which type of FET you put in.

The second and third are essentially the same thing, except one uses a pot. This varies the amount of signal going to the GR amp/rectifier stage.

The fourth one reduces the gain of the IC input stage, allowing you to turn up the input pot more (and use the 26dB gain of the input amplifier stage) before there's enough signal to start compression.
 
Thanks guys I went for 100K pot on front panel works a treat.... CCW I have full 1176 threshold CW I have no compression I also leave threshold full CW while I set the Q bias ...that should be ok right ? I also have added a ouput socket so I gain use a different make up amp sounds nice with La2a but best with BA6a

Cheers
 
Hello everyone, well im pleased to say that i completely finished my first G1176 compressor and im very happy with the results, it sounds amazing. However, i completed calibration and everything but for some reason, the needle wont stay in 0 position on GR mode, i mean the Meter Adjustment. I always calibrate it after a lot of time has passed because i know the meter needs to stabilize, but no matter what, after i turn it off and back on, the needle will deflect from Zero. It will go above Zero after some time has passed. Any ideas?
 
Hey all,
can someone please enlighten me as to whether a specific kind of powersupply is required for a 1176. I went to electronics store, but they didn't have any that resemble those in pictures I see on here...

What are the specifications that need to be met?

Thanks for any and all help...

BT
 
It's pretty specific. You'll probably need to make one up, or use the one on the PCB's.
It requires a -10V rail for the JFET, and a +30V rail for the audio signal amplifiers, both as low noise as possible so are better suited to linear regulation.
 
If you mean the "Toroidal" transformer from the mains supply then it's a 115v or 230v ( depends where you live ) primary
and dual 25v secondary - written 25-0-25 rated at about 30Va

MM.
 
hi all....just completed my g9 minus engraving and am looking to dive into an 1176...probably a dumb question but would this be a more 'intermediate' project than an la-2a? i don't want to bite off more than i can chew, which almost happened w/ my g9...i've looked at both schematics and it seems to be so....also what has been everyone's approximate build cost (i know it'll vary wildly depending on component quality)....just fishing around here....thanks for any insights. cheers, :) alex
 
hi all....just completed my g9 minus engraving and am looking to dive into an 1176...probably a dumb question but would this be a more 'intermediate' project than an la-2a? i don't want to bite off more than i can chew, which almost happened w/ my g9...i've looked at both schematics and it seems to be so....also what has been everyone's approximate build cost (i know it'll vary wildly depending on component quality)....just fishing around here....thanks for any insights. cheers, Smiley alex

The 1176 was my first non-kit project. I have two working without too much difficulty. Mnats has a great site. Step by step assembly.

Mine cost around 350-400 i'd guess. Thats with lundahls. I believe the la-2a is quite a bit more expensive. IMO 1176 should be a good choice... but i haven't built a la-2a yet and i love my 1176's.
 
I did three GSSL comps before starting the 1176. Im not finished with it yet, almost though. And I have not found it to be overly difficult. I did mine with the 5532 input and Lundahl output. My cost will be about the same as guitarguy, maybe a touch more once I get the front panel from FPE.
 
thanks everybody! i'll poke around and see if i can start things moving...think i'll steer clear of an la-2a for now and maybe build a pair of 1176's!....cheers, alex
 
hi all, any thoughts on mnats new f/j boards or whether to try another set? rotary switches vs. pushbutton? seem to be a lot of good quality boards to choose from! alex
 
I guess it depends on what you want them for and what you want them to do. Do you plan to use them or are they for a collection? Do you want them to be replicas of the original?

I've found that the rotary switch version was a little more versatile, particularly as I added a couple of 'missing' compression ratios that I find useful. Whenther or not it looked like the original was immaterial.
 
thanks for the replies.....i don't care if they look original i just want to record w/ them....so any opinions on whether i should go w/ an older rev of mnats boards that works w/ rotaries or is that a moot point? surely the rotaries can be wired to the newer pushbutton pcb? but w/out too much trouble? perhaps i should spend more time on his thread to make sure instead of playing dumbo.....any suggestions on currently produced boards from mnats with which you've had success greatly appreciated....just would like to build on pcbs that are rather recent so i can scream HELP if i need to on the forum instead of weeding through hours of four yr old posts, which i love to do personally but my significant other doesn't appreciate....you gotta give sometimes.....also think i'll order cases from purusha this time around....if that matters what pcb version to get.....cheers, alex
 

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