All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[a2d]

Hey Brandon,

I don't have a stereo 1176, mine is a singe unit but thanks for the info

 

[casrec]

Hey Brandon,

I don't have a stereo 1176, mine is a singe unit but thanks for the info

Ohh, I'm sorry! I thought you had a stereo unit and you were having problems linking them. My bad! ;D having a slight swing when adjusting the release is normal while returning back to the zero point. But if it is just sitting there it shouldn't swing more then something you wouldn't notice unless staring intensely at it. Do you feel it is passing audio and compressing fine. Is it dropping 1db when release is full CCW then back up 1db at full CW? The needle will move a smidged while adjusting the release in the full range but 1db sounds a like a lot, but if you feel that it is compressing fine and that the release is working as it should I wouldn't worry to much about it.

Brandon 

 

[mac]

Hey guys,
I am just loving my dual rev J's. Cant track anything at the moment with out them 

Brandon, one question for you. Did you go with Mikes stereo link boards? does it link everything? (Input gain, attack, release, Ratio, Slam, Output Gain)?
I have used mine for some "mastering" duties, but I have to work really hard to get both channels spot on even with the "link" mode switched in.

One other question for anyone to comment. I have noticed minor differences in the attack settings between both of my channels, which I am assuming may just be differences in the pots themselves (they are cheapies). Is there any other logical place to look in terms of matching channels? I am considering swapping out the attack pots for some nicer quality ones - (any suggestions - mouser preferred supplier).

Mac

 

[casrec]

Hey guys,
I am just loving my dual rev J's. Cant track anything at the moment with out them 

Brandon, one question for you. Did you go with Mikes stereo link boards? does it link everything? (Input gain, attack, release, Ratio, Slam, Output Gain)?
I have used mine for some "mastering" duties, but I have to work really hard to get both channels spot on even with the "link" mode switched in.

One other question for anyone to comment. I have noticed minor differences in the attack settings between both of my channels, which I am assuming may just be differences in the pots themselves (they are cheapies). Is there any other logical place to look in terms of matching channels? I am considering swapping out the attack pots for some nicer quality ones - (any suggestions - mouser preferred supplier).

Mac

Hey mac,
    I have not used Mikes stereo link boards. I have just matched FETs  really well and also used the SA circuit. On paper Mike's(purples) summing circuit is far superior. The problem with just linking them together or using Urei's 1176SA circuit is that the attack and release controls will interact and the fastest attack time will be doubled of a single unit. You should not hear a difference in attack when linked together because they are being linked together. Unless you are using Mike's circuit. This summing circuit actually keeps them as two mono units but sums the output going into pad 15 to ensure that the same amount of GR is taking place in each unit(up to 10db). The 1176 is probably my favorite compressor in the whole wide world. But like most audio gear, it has it's limitations. And I think using it for mastering purposes is one of those. Have you considered building a GSSL? Although I also think there are no rules in engineering audio and if you love the way it sounds that's awesome. I would love to hear some audio clips and I think I might mess around with these on my master! ;D   

 

[beaversaber]

Fixed the issues from a few posts up, and it all works great and sounds swell! the only thing now is there is very slight HF roll off that occurs as the attack knob is turned clockwise.  maybe something to do with the cap on the attack knob? or something else?

 

[Chrome Heart]

First one finished and in the rack just above the reissue. The VU lamp looks really bright, but it isnt. Its about the same as an old LA3. It performs very close to the reissue but has some subtle sonic differences.  Just waiting on FPE to finish the second. Thanks to eveyone for your help.

 

[mac]

Hey brandon,
thanks for the summary for the stereo linking...

Have you considered building a GSSL?

yep....they are next in the queue for my bench!! Only using the 1176 to compare to plugins for mastering at the moment - that is untill I have a GSSL..

Mac

 

[a2d]

Fixed the issues from a few posts up, and it all works great and sounds swell! the only thing now is there is very slight HF roll off that occurs as the attack knob is turned clockwise.  maybe something to do with the cap on the attack knob? or something else?

What did you find causing the meter to move with the release pot?

 

[beaversaber]

To be honest I'm not entirely sure what fixed what.  I pretty much just redid the wiring and solved a bunch of issues.  Pad 23 on the board wasn't connected to ground, so I'm guessing that was part of it

 

[beaversaber]

hmm, now I realize that the spdt on the attack pot isn't disabling GR either.  so HF roll off when attack is turned CW, a slight increase in output level as release is turned CW, and GR disable switch not working. 

Anyone around?

 

[casrec]

hmm, now I realize that the spdt on the attack pot isn't disabling GR either.  so HF roll off when attack is turned CW, a slight increase in output level as release is turned CW, and GR disable switch not working. 

Anyone around?

That's really weird. Do you have another 1176 or UAD or bomb factory to compare to. Does it sound like you are putting a HPF in the signal chain when turning attack CW. Turning CW will stop more transients coming through thus giving the illusion of a HF roll off, but nothing extremely noticeable. Also, turning the release CW will give you a faster release and less compression  making it sounder louder compared to full CCW. Check your wiring on the switch on the attack pot. One side should go to pad 22 and the other to GRN on the ratio board. Use a ohm meter or better yet, the diode tester on you DMM to make sure the connection is being cut when switched to the off position. It is really hard to give any advice without seeing or hearing it. But you should not have a HF roll off, Full CW on the attack should just smooth the transients. Hope you figure it out!

Brandon   

 

[beaversaber]

Thanks Brandon,
Yeah, it's definitely a pretty significant roll off.  Never noticed it like this in the real one...

http://www.justinchapman.net/KITDESTROYED_01.mp3
http://www.justinchapman.net/KITDESTROYED.01_02.mp3

First one is fast attack fast release, second is slow attack fast release

About to check the wiring on the switch

 

[beaversaber]

Okay, so the switch is now working.  I had the middle connected to 22 and the sides to blk/grn.  Just misinterpreted the instructions that came with the HB kit.

I found that the degree of HF roll off is affected by what I do with the q bias.  the further CW i turn it the more gets rolled off.  is this normal?  i will go through and re do the calibration procedure as well

 

[gswan]

Not normal. Check the values of the capacitors you have attached to the GR FET drain lead.

 

[casrec]

Okay, so the switch is now working.  I had the middle connected to 22 and the sides to blk/grn.  Just misinterpreted the instructions that came with the HB kit.

I found that the degree of HF roll off is affected by what I do with the q bias.  the further CW i turn it the more gets rolled off.  is this normal?  i will go through and re do the calibration procedure as well

Yes, definitely recalibrate. Also do as gswan said check the caps and all the components that are connected to and in the same path as Q1. You'll get it!!! ;D

 

[beaversaber]

Awesome! thanks so much for the quick replies.

Gonna check the components connected to Q1 tomorrow

 

[emreyazgin]

I have a question about two IC's on mnats rev J:
NE5532
BF245A

I found an NE5532AP and TL071CP (both texas instruments), are they acceptable alternatives? I couldn't find exact components in Farnell. Any thoughts? Thank you so much.

regards,
emre

 

[gswan]

Yes, the 'AP' suffix means a tighter spec device ('A' series) and a plastic DIL package ('P').
The 'CP' suffix in the TL071 is a plastic DIL package code.

 

[emreyazgin]

Yes, the 'AP' suffix means a tighter spec device ('A' series) and a plastic DIL package ('P').
The 'CP' suffix in the TL071 is a plastic DIL package code.

Perfect! Thank you so much!..I am almost done with the components.. I spent almost 5-6 hours trying to match the components and double checked everything to make sure.. I hope it will pay off during stuffing

 

[emreyazgin]

Hi everyone,

I have nearly finished buying all parts for my REV.J. 1176!! With helps from you guys I sorted the components, case, knobs etc etc..

Just one thing left now: The mighty VU-Meter and VU meter light!...Anybody has any idea about my options for these in the UK?? I found a few of them but they were really really expensive! like 70-80£!! I am looking for something cheaper..Any ideas?

For example would any of these work?:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=L3UX4AFTKKF3YCQLCIQZMMQ?N=0&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=vu+meter&Ntx=&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=265226


Cheers

Emre