All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[Beauvais]

I do have meter lights connected to the "VU LAMP" pins on the PCB, how could they interact?

 

[Echo North]

Hi
thanks Mike
Is correct this wires between J PCB and B1148?

That's what I quickly came up with looking at the schematic.  I did not test it, but there is another thread where a few people tried it and said it worked.  It's very straight forward.

Is possible use only the OUT TRAFO B11148 without the T attenuator and the TRAFO IN UTC O-12 (or Altran C-3837-1)?

Sure.  The G uses a B11148 output with an IC input for example.  

 

[juanjovincenzo]

Hi
thanks Mike
Is correct this wires between J PCB and B1148?

That's what I quickly came up with looking at the schematic.  I did not test it, but there is another thread where a few people tried it and said it worked.  It's very straight forward.

Is possible use only the OUTPUT TRAFO B11148 without the T attenuator and the TRAFO INPUT UTC O-12 (or Altran C-3837-1)?

Sure.  The G uses a B11148 output with an IC input for example.  

OK!
So, Is possible to put together a Lundalh LL1540 (IN TRAFO, without T attenuator) and B11148 (OUTPUT TRAFO)?

Maybe someone has been used the cinemags INPUT TRAFOS : CMMI-2C or CMLI-15-15PCA for the 1176 REV F using a G1176 PCB?. Are these good alternatives?   But if I use these  INPUT trafos, I need to use the attenuator, please correct me if I am wrong!

So the G1176 rev J and the 1176 REV F PCB will be so versatile to get variety of sound colors!!

Therefore the good INPUT TRAFOs alternatives are:  
- Lundalh LL1540 (without T attenuator)
- OEPA262A2E     (without T attenuator)

-Altran 3837-1
-CMMI-2C
-CMLI-15-15PCA

Please, I am listening for advices about good combinations or results!

I started here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=5581.msg375794#msg375794

Regards

Juanjo

 

[juanjovincenzo]

mmmm I think the CMMI-2C (INPUT Trafo) don´t need the T attenuator)

 

[beaversaber]

Hi,
I am almost finished building up my second 1176.  I first built it up with a transformerless input, at which point it worked fine.  I then added the c-3837 input transformer/t attenuator/changed the wiring to use the transformer input, and am now getting very low input gain, hardly enough to trigger compression. When I have both in/out knobs wide open i am just a little above unity gain.  I tried removing the q1 FET, and the gain staging seemed to return to normal (sans compression of course) I also tried switching fets with the one in the meter section, and the same problem occurred.  When I go to do the calibration procedures, the q-bias trimmer does basically nothing.  Almost all of my voltages check out with the schematic on gyraf's site, although around Q5 they are about 1 volt low, and around Q9 they are about a volt high.

Any ideas?

 

[beatnik]

Hi everybody,

i am collecting parts for a dual 1176 (mnats rev J boards).

I wanted to ask if i can replace the pricey sifams with those meters, wich are way cheaper

http://uk.farnell.com/anders-electronics/st7/vu-meter-rect-0-200ua/dp/7758200

i've done a search on the forum and founded they are suitable for 2254C clones, so i hope they would work ok in the G1176.

any suggestions are welcome, please let me know

 

[Chrome Heart]

Hi everybody,

i am collecting parts for a dual 1176 (mnats rev J boards).

I wanted to ask if i can replace the pricey sifams with those meters, wich are way cheaper

http://uk.farnell.com/anders-electronics/st7/vu-meter-rect-0-200ua/dp/7758200

i've done a search on the forum and founded they are suitable for 2254C clones, so i hope they would work ok in the G1176.

any suggestions are welcome, please let me know

Get meters from the guys at Hairball Audio. They're only around 30. each and work great.

 

[beatnik]

i've seen them, but the main reasons for looking to the anders is because i can get them faster.

i am in italy and shipping from us is often very long, plus i've seen in the white market that hairball doesn't have the meters in stock, so i will have to wait even more.

any tip on the anders?

 

[beatnik]

maybe adding this?

http://www.jlmaudio.com/VU%20Buffer.htm

 

[dgoszillai]

Hi,

i am building my1176REVJ with OEPA
based on the Mnats 1176 BOM list i have some question i'm sure they already found an aswer here around but hell ! can't find them ! (scuse maybe i'm french)
so i ask them here please don't fight if you answered this 10time just tell me i'll search again

• first question where is C*4 on main board ? can't find it
• i find all these empty places on PCB: R52 ; R56 ; R82 ; R35 ; R28 ; R8 ; C*1 ;C*2 ; C*3 ; C* what should i do for these
• where can find the way do sold audio inputs, power cables to pcbs, vu-meter, dual link (the wiring info on mnats page is very "small")
• what kind of switch is the best for the panel (tat's panels have 1cm holes but i can only find around internet some 6mm shaft) sould i search for 1cm shaft (dunno exactly what shaft mean))

you see on pcbs that i solded some parts on the optional input and realised i don't need them  : so hx far all advice .. i'm a bit lost  :-\

 

[juanjovincenzo]

Hi,

i am building my1176REVJ with OEPA
based on the Mnats 1176 BOM list i have some question i'm sure they already found an aswer here around but hell ! can't find them ! (scuse maybe i'm french)
so i ask them here please don't fight if you answered this 10time just tell me i'll search again

• first question where is C*4 on main board ? can't find it
• i find all these empty places on PCB: R52 ; R56 ; R82 ; R35 ; R28 ; R8 ; C*1 ;C*2 ; C*3 ; C* what should i do for these
• where can find the way do sold audio inputs, power cables to pcbs, vu-meter, dual link (the wiring info on mnats page is very "small")
• what kind of switch is the best for the panel (tat's panels have 1cm holes but i can only find around internet some 6mm shaft) sould i search for 1cm shaft (dunno exactly what shaft mean))

you see on pcbs that i solded some parts on the optional input and realised i don't need them  : so hx far all advice .. i'm a bit lost  :-\

Hi you read this http://mnats.net/1176_H_info.html ??
Read all the mntas pages about " buliding a Gyraf 1176"

 

[dgoszillai]

aaaa ok thx !
i missed that one i check that and come back with what i don't understand  :
now if anyone has advice for the switchs

 

[dgoszillai]

i found my problem.
copy paste from bom result in a mistake and all the value : R8,R28,R35,R52,R56,R82,R1A,R1B,R1C,R1D,R1E where removed from my excel !   :

 

[dgoszillai]

just to make sure ... C*4 is C35 ? can't find C*4 on the main and is see on the bom C*4(C35).

about C3, C4. i read 100n on BOM. that's the same as 0.1uF right (you know i'm noob)

 

[juanjovincenzo]

dgoszillai

Check this image, you can understand the convertions of the units in capacitors. Micro = u, Nano = n and Pico = p. Use your Maths
http://www.profesormolina.com.ar/electronica/componentes/capacitores/lec_cond/image001.gif

I am doing a mouser bom of 1176 rev J. I based on anothers old boms, when I finish I can post it

 

[dgoszillai]

nice
maybe i'll post my musikding bom when finished because i'm planning to do more revJ.
do yo know about that C*4 ?  :

 

[mac]

Hey dgosz...

I cant remember off hand, and all mine are screwed into the rack at the moment - but depending on your board revision - safest bet is to just cross check everything against Jakobs layout which has all the values printed http://stillwalker.dk/gyweb.php#p=668    http://gyraf.dk/gy_pd/1176/1176.pdf

mac

 

[mac]

Dgosz,
I just saw your pics on the previous page.

You do realise you dont need to populate the PS section of the boards if you are using Mnats optional separate PS?
So in other words C24 c25 c26 R85 R86 etc dont need to be populated., because you are bringing your +30 and -10v straight onto the board already rectified from the separate PS.

Also, you can use the fet input section AND the optional transformer input and make them switchable if you want to.

Mac

 

[dgoszillai]

you dont need to populate the PS section of the boards if you are using Mnats optional separate PS

omg ! i'm so noob it scares me !
but i see on this page http://mnats.net/psu.html
lots of components removed !
CR6 / R85 / R86 / CR8 / CR10 / CR7 / CR9 / VR1 / R89 / R87 !!!
do i have to remove all those ?
where can i see the exact list of what to remove if using external PSU ?  :-\

 

[mac]

If I were you I would take a deep breath and spend some more time reading all the docs first before hooking up to your transformer. It will save you time in the long run.

Make sure your power supply is working and stable before you connect it to the main boards.

Also, power up the boards without the opamps installed - so you can check your board voltages before you install them.

Mine were done like Mnats says, but since you already have those components on board, you can probably just remove the reg, remove R85 and R86, salvage your caps if you want to, and install links across the reg position for the +30v and the link at R85 -10v. Your diodes can stay put from what I see.

Mac