All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[gyraf]

Yep, that will probably work just fine.. (the 2x24V version - the one in the pic is a 15V)

Jakob E.

 

[Hulk]

Great!

Thanks Jakob!

 

[lumpylipton]

Jakob,
Thanks for your response and tips, I can trace the AC signal through all the sidechain transistors and diodes and it's present everywhere. However, the DC on the gates does not change with varying input levels. On Q1 gate is 6 volts DC and on Q10 gate it is 0.6 VDC. Any specific areas to concentrate on, knowing this isn't right? I have checked resistor values twice, and my voltages look fine everywhere, which is what makes this problem so frustrating. What range of VDC should I be seeing on the gates?
Thanks again,
Warren

 

[gyraf]

Look around the FD333 diodes - that's where your AC gets to be DC..

Jakob E.

 

[Mbira]

Gah- I got thru the first four or five pages of this thread-I can't handle reading any more of it right now-My 1176 has already been giving me a headache.

I'm using the pushbutton version of mnats-IE, no +8 setting.

I don't think my attack and release are working correctly.

My "GR" button when pushed climbs up until it pegs the top no matter what I do with the trim-pot.

I think I got the bias set correctly.

I don't know if my ratio buttons do.

I'm lost. I'm confused. I'm tired and frustrated.

I have some voltages from various places. One area that doesn't seem right is my 5532 gives me this:

15.04
15.04
14.95
0
30.03
15.04
15.04
14.98

My TL071 gives me:

-9.92
0
0
-10.12
0
17.26
7.84
-9.92

By the way, my input voltage after the diodes and before the 7824 is 31.96V

Sorry I'm so grumpy.
This thread is almost 40 pages long. Hopefully I will have a happy chapter here.

I checked the push-button boards and don't see any shorts.

I'm gonna go eat now and I'll be back...
This is my first day of summer though! WOOHOO!

Joel

 

[bubba_b]

I'm building the mnats board (rev. H) right now and I've wired up a "slam" mode switch as per jakob's instructions on his site. I want to hook up a simple red LED to light up when the "slam" mode is enabled. Where would I hook this thing up?

 

[bubba_b]

bump, please.

 

[gyraf]

use a switch with more decks?

 

[bubba_b]

You mean like a dual-pole, triple throw? Not sure I understand. Where would it get power from?

 

[bubba_b]

Ok, I tried hooking it up with the meter light and one leg going through one side of the slam switch and it worked. However, with the switch off, it's still lighting up a tiny bit. By doing this, am I putting the led in the ratio circuit and if so, how will that affect operation?

 

[yan_b]

You mean like a dual-pole

triple pole.


the third pole will use for the led on/off switching .
find dc source in the circuit, and dont forget droping resistor acording to
the voltage (for the led)

the pole you use to control the led is completely isolated from the circuit,
one leg come from dc source, and one goes to the led and then to 0v/circuit ground.

 

[bubba_b]

Thanks, Yan. It works perfectly. Now I'm just waiting on a meter.....

 

[soundguy]

Im having a shitty two days.

working on the G1176 on mnats revg board, here's a little history-

I couldnt get the line amp working right, while the line amp wasnt functioning, the meter driver amp seemed to be fine, in GR mode I could get the VU to sit at zero, no problem.

I had the two 180K resistors installed in place of the 180r in the line amp and once I got that straightened out, the line amp works fine now, but the unit wont compress and I now the meter circuit is wack.

Overall, my voltages on the transistors seem about normal. Ive replaced the tl071 and get the same thing. The unit wont compress and the GR will only sit at -4ish dB. GR meter zero pot has no effect, Q bias has no effect and the track pot will move the needle a little but there is clearly something wrong. Ive triple checked my caps, they seem good. Power supply is working fine. Diodes all seem like they are in the right way. I havent been able to yet find a bad resistor. Im pretty stumped. Is there something that seems like I should obviously check? Nothing is jumping out at me so far.

could any of this be tied to shorts in the ratio selector switch?

Any ideas here are greatly appreciated!

dave

 

[cannikin]

Hey Guys

I skimmed through all 40 pages, and I want to verify my toroid is correct (I got this from a BOM listed a while back).

Digi-Key part # TE62052-nd

12V @ 1.25A

Is this right? For some reason a voice in my head keeps saying "this is wrong... this is wrong".

:shock:

thanks

 

[radiance]

[quote author="soundguy"]......


could any of this be tied to shorts in the ratio selector switch?

Any ideas here are greatly appreciated!

dave[/quote]

The ratio switch is the first thing I would look at. Check resistor values off R2, R23, R24, R25 and R26.
Also check around the ratio switch and your bypass switch for shorts to ground. When in bypass mode, the GR control signal is shorted to ground.

 

[gyraf]

David,

You need a 2x24V transformer (or better, a 2x30V transformer if possible) for the 1176.

12V is not enough..

Jakob E.

 

[radiance]

[quote author="cannikin"]Hey Guys

I skimmed through all 40 pages, and I want to verify my toroid is correct (I got this from a BOM listed a while back).

Digi-Key part # TE62052-nd

12V @ 1.25A

Is this right? For some reason a voice in my head keeps saying "this is wrong... this is wrong".

:shock:

thanks[/quote]

Reading through the data sheet it seems that your 62052 is 2 X 12 v.
For the 1176 u need a 2 X 24v one...



Aaahhh I see , answered already by Jakob.

 

[cannikin]

Thanks Jakob and radiance

 

[cannikin]

I found these listed Here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=372

TE62055-ND
Toroid 22V .682A Wires


TE62045-ND
TRANSFRMR TOROID 22V .454A Wires

any thoughts as to which is the better option?

All the 2x24V at Digikey are non-stock and 100 bucks a pop.
Thanks again.

 

[soundguy]

avel lindberg has a torroid that will work.

dave