B9A tube right angle mounts

[ruffrecords]

I am printing the test block right now whilst reading the various links about calibration. It says it should take a little over 55 mins.

Cheers

ian

And the results are in.

The rectangular measurements are all very good. Even the 2 inch dimension is within 1 mil at the bottom and 3 mils at the top. All the shorter ones are within 1 mil. The only problem is with circles or hexagons on vertical faces where the top is lower than it should be. For example the top to bottom flat on the M3 nut hexagon should be 5.5mm but it is 5.33. The worst of the other two pairs is 5.47mm.

The problem is the initial unsupported span which seems to have drooped. I would not expect to see this where the holes/hexagons are laying in the XY plane.

Edit: In fact the holes in the top surface are all too small. The 0.24" for example is only 0.233". I don't have any imperial drill bits to try out so a future version with some metric holes like 3mm, 6mm and 10mm would be useful

Cheers

Ian

 

[13engrsapper]

And the results are in.

The rectangular measurements are all very good. Even the 2 inch dimension is within 1 mil at the bottom and 3 mils at the top. All the shorter ones are within 1 mil. The only problem is with circles or hexagons on vertical faces where the top is lower than it should be. For example the top to bottom flat on the M3 nut hexagon should be 5.5mm but it is 5.33. The worst of the other two pairs is 5.47mm.

The problem is the initial unsupported span which seems to have drooped. I would not expect to see this where the holes/hexagons are laying in the XY plane.

Edit: In fact the holes in the top surface are all too small. The 0.24" for example is only 0.233". I don't have any imperial drill bits to try out so a future version with some metric holes like 3mm, 6mm and 10mm would be useful

Cheers

Ian

Wow, dang close on the external measurements! I will make a metric one today after my coffee.

 

[shaggy]

And the results are in.

The rectangular measurements are all very good. Even the 2 inch dimension is within 1 mil at the bottom and 3 mils at the top. All the shorter ones are within 1 mil. The only problem is with circles or hexagons on vertical faces where the top is lower than it should be. For example the top to bottom flat on the M3 nut hexagon should be 5.5mm but it is 5.33. The worst of the other two pairs is 5.47mm.

The problem is the initial unsupported span which seems to have drooped. I would not expect to see this where the holes/hexagons are laying in the XY plane.

Edit: In fact the holes in the top surface are all too small. The 0.24" for example is only 0.233". I don't have any imperial drill bits to try out so a future version with some metric holes like 3mm, 6mm and 10mm would be useful

Cheers

Ian

I made the cal. block on my A1 Mini, from PETG. The overall 1" x 2" size was about 0.012" undersize on each side, the 1/2" x 3/4" recess was spot-on, and the 1/8" and 1/4" holes were both a firm push fit for the appropriate pin gauge.
The 5.5mm hex was spot on except for the vertical measurement, due to slight drooping of the hot filament across the unsupported (top) span.
All pretty much what I expected and similar to my experience in making small mechanical parts on this machine w/ the same material.
(3D printed parts are not necessarily 'finished' as-is. You should expect sometimes to have to deburr/smooth edges, check and resize holes, etc, the same as for any other process.)

 

[13engrsapper]

And the results are in.

The rectangular measurements are all very good. Even the 2 inch dimension is within 1 mil at the bottom and 3 mils at the top. All the shorter ones are within 1 mil. The only problem is with circles or hexagons on vertical faces where the top is lower than it should be. For example the top to bottom flat on the M3 nut hexagon should be 5.5mm but it is 5.33. The worst of the other two pairs is 5.47mm.

The problem is the initial unsupported span which seems to have drooped. I would not expect to see this where the holes/hexagons are laying in the XY plane.

Edit: In fact the holes in the top surface are all too small. The 0.24" for example is only 0.233". I don't have any imperial drill bits to try out so a future version with some metric holes like 3mm, 6mm and 10mm would be useful

Cheers

Ian

Happy New Year Ian and Everyone.

Here is the Metric Calibration Block for you. I put holes of exact size in 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10mm along with matching depth for each hole on one axis, and through holes on another.

Additionally, on the lower flat, I included ANSI Specified Clearance holes and threaded holes for: M3 x .5, M4 x .7, M5 x .8, M6 x 1, and M8 x 1.25mm.

Next to those are 10mm wide through hole rectangles. the 5mm wide opening should match your 5mm remainder etc, and down to 4 and 3 and so on. That they match is most important. ID to OD.

The block is 75mm square and 50mm high at max. There are external measurements provided. I radiuses the bottom edges slightly to make removal from your platforms easier.

Same thing on the file as before - change the .txt file extension to .stl

I am going to replace them just as soon as my set of 6 multi-cap can replacement cans are done lol.


-T

 

[ruffrecords]

@13engrsapper thanks for that. I just started the print. It takes 3hrs 23mins. As it is nearly 11.30pm here it will finish early next year.

Happy New Year everybody

Ian

 

[13engrsapper]

@13engrsapper thanks for that. I just started the print. It takes 3hrs 23mins. As it is nearly 11.30pm here it will finish early next year.

Happy New Year everybody

Ian

Oh man - Sorry, that is a long test print - perhaps I should try to shrink it up for next year I figured larger dimensions it might be easier to calculate errors.
Happy New Year!

 

[shaggy]

Happy New Year to all!

 

[ruffrecords]

The first print failed quite early on. The bottom layer appears not to have adhered properly. So I have changed the filament to an official Bambu one and tried again. So far it has reached layer 40 of 250 without incident. Fingers crossed!

Cheers

ian

 

[13engrsapper]

I made the cal. block on my A1 Mini, from PETG. The overall 1" x 2" size was about 0.012" undersize on each side, the 1/2" x 3/4" recess was spot-on, and the 1/8" and 1/4" holes were both a firm push fit for the appropriate pin gauge.
The 5.5mm hex was spot on except for the vertical measurement, due to slight drooping of the hot filament across the unsupported (top) span.
All pretty much what I expected and similar to my experience in making small mechanical parts on this machine w/ the same material.
(3D printed parts are not necessarily 'finished' as-is. You should expect sometimes to have to deburr/smooth edges, check and resize holes, etc, the same as for any other proces

The first print failed quite early on. The bottom layer appears not to have adhered properly. So I have changed the filament to an official Bambu one and tried again. So far it has reached layer 40 of 250 without incident. Fingers crossed!

Cheers

ian

I had two print failures yesterday - I got a bit cocky and switched resins without running a test and adjusting exposure.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

The first print failed quite early on. The bottom layer appears not to have adhered properly. So I have changed the filament to an official Bambu one and tried again. So far it has reached layer 40 of 250 without incident. Fingers crossed!

Cheers

ian

Do you use adhesive?
The most common causes for bad 1st layer are poor adhesion of build plate, bad bed temperature and Z offset out of whack.
The fact that it worked with a new filament may also indicate a filament that needs to be dried.

 

[ruffrecords]

Do you use adhesive?

I do not

The most common causes for bad 1st layer are poor adhesion of build plate, bad bed temperature and Z offset out of whack.

The bed temperature was OK according to Bambu Studio and it did its usual bed levelling before the print. I must admit I have gotten so used to it printing OK I often just set it off and forget about it. I only became aware that something was wrong when it started making funny noises.

The fact that it worked with a new filament may also indicate a filament that needs to be dried.

I had been using that filament without problems for a few days including printing the smaller calibration block.

The only thing unusual about this print is that the first layer has a number of round and rectangular holes in it and some are quite near the edges .

Fortunately the second print completed without issue.

Cheers

Ian

 

[abbey road d enfer]

Anyway, I would recommand you use dedicated adhesive.

 

[totoxraymond]

Dry filament is indeed very important, i regularly dry them with my oven.

Also, i store them in a "compactor" bag. These are originally aimed for storing clothes and blankets by sucking the air out with a vacuum cleaner. Makes a nice and inexpensive vacuum storage for filaments too. You can stuff some desicant packs in there for good measure.

 

[Disco Volante]

A bit of ordinary hairspray makes the prints stick to the glass just fine on my ancient Makerbot...

 

[shaggy]

I do not

The bed temperature was OK according to Bambu Studio and it did its usual bed levelling before the print. I must admit I have gotten so used to it printing OK I often just set it off and forget about it. I only became aware that something was wrong when it started making funny noises.

I had been using that filament without problems for a few days including printing the smaller calibration block.

The only thing unusual about this print is that the first layer has a number of round and rectangular holes in it and some are quite near the edges .

Fortunately the second print completed without issue.

Cheers

Ian

I assume you're using the OEM build plate w/ the textured surface? Using the rough-textured plate, I rarely have an adhesion problem that's not been fixed by adjusting bed temperature for the particular filament (which is supposed to be taken care of automatically by selecting filament brand and type in the menu). I've also tried slowing the machine down to the 50% setting at least for for the first few layers, which may or may not have helped, as it seems that those are already laid down at a reduced speed.
On another note, Ian, have you tried printing solid (infill set to '100%' under the 'strength' column heading). It often doesn't take much longer and adds substantially to the useability of mechanical parts (i.e. part can be machined, drilled, tapped, etc)

 

[ruffrecords]

I assume you're using the OEM build plate w/ the textured surface? Using the rough-textured plate, I rarely have an adhesion problem that's not been fixed by adjusting bed temperature for the particular filament (which is supposed to be taken care of automatically by selecting filament brand and type in the menu). I've also tried slowing the machine down to the 50% setting at least for for the first few layers, which may or may not have helped, as it seems that those are already laid down at a reduced speed.
On another note, Ian, have you tried printing solid (infill set to '100%' under the 'strength' column heading). It often doesn't take much longer and adds substantially to the useability of mechanical parts (i.e. part can be machined, drilled, tapped, etc)

Thanks for the tips and insight. I am using the standard plate that came with the Bambu A1 mini. I am very much in the Windows user category at the moment when it comes to making adjustments to print parameters. I am sure that helpful posts like yours will soon graduate me to Linux user grade

Cheers

ian

 

[shaggy]

Thanks for the tips and insight. I am using the standard plate that came with the Bambu A1 mini. I am very much in the Windows user category at the moment when it comes to making adjustments to print parameters. I am sure that helpful posts like yours will soon graduate me to Linux user grade

Cheers

ian

Nothing wrong with that. Win7 and 10 still work fine (though I'll admit I've got one laptop with Linux Mint standing by, ready for the Zombie Apocalypse 8>)