Xilinx sells a dev board which is quite inexpensive and very powerful and flexible, their spartan 3 evaluation board.
It's got VGA, serial, 4 digits of 7segs, 8 LEDs, 8 slide switches, 4 pushbuttons, 1M SRAM, 2M flash, and 3 40-pin expansion connectors. I have a fancy little breadboard that plugs into one of the expansion ports.
The board is only $99, and comes with a JTAG cable, and it's a 200,000 gate spartan3, pretty powerful little chip. I've done some fun stuff with it, but nothing yet that would be worth making a PCB for.