Bluzzi EZ1084 EQ finished units

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Cheers

Jim
 
Hi guys, this is my mix of Jims pcbs and an older 1073 style case Frank made for me some time ago for an older project I never finished. I had already made the concentric switches/pots so I used the faceplate that was originally made for a 1073 pre/eq. So no markings for treble frequencies or high-q etc for now. But most importantly it works and sounds great!!!

Thanks to Jim (Bluzzi) for creating such a nice project.
 

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Hi Benny,

Looks great! How did you get the Grayhills to fit on there? Did you wire them separately?

What other guys?  :D

Glad you are enjoying the EQ.

Cheers

Jim

Benny said:
Hi guys, this is my mix of Jims pcbs and an older 1073 style case Frank made for me some time ago for an older project I never finished. I had already made the concentric switches/pots so I used the faceplate that was originally made for a 1073 pre/eq. So no markings for treble frequencies or high-q etc for now. But most importantly it works and sounds great!!!

Thanks to Jim (Bluzzi) and the other guys for creating such a nice project.
 
Hi Jim.
I used Lorlins that I customized so you can put a pot through them.
I'll post some inside pics the next days where you can see how the switching and wiring is done.
 
Benny said:
Hi Jim.
I used Lorlins that I customized so you can put a pot through them.
I'll post some inside pics the next days where you can see how the switching and wiring is done.

That is an amazing thing and truly DIY! Love it. Please show some pictures. 3nity wanted to do that but I told him it would be extremely hard to route all those wires into those tiny holes. You proved me wrong!

But I am glad that you like the units. I have not heard one negative comment yet. A true testament to Mr. NEVE.

Cheers

Jim
 
Here is a pic of the inside. You can see the the switches on the frontplate. I used some cable tunnel to hide the wiring... ::)
 

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Took a time (and a few spare Lorlins) to figure out how to build the switches, which parts to cut and which not, etc. You need a steady hand while reassembling because those tiny springs and metal balls inside the switch really like to flip all over the place.
 
Hey guys.

I wanted to reroute some wires in my 1084 so I had to unscrew the pcbs. While doing this I must have created a short between the screws/case of the 3055 and the metal case of the unit which is 0V.
One of the 1W resistors (R106, R108, R109 I can't exactly say which one it was) went up in smoke and since then both channels don't work anymore.
I tried to fix one channel first by changing the smoked resistor and by exchanging all transistors. But still no success.
Any ideas what else could be the problem? Both channels were working before this.

Thx, Benjamin
 
Hi Benjamin,

You had power on while moving the PCB? Ouch!

What do you mean by "both channels don't work anymore"? Do you mean 2 EQs or the active circuits?
(OK I forgot the pictures you posted earlier and I just saw them. So you mean 2 EQs! Bummer. Check the wiring to Lorlins are all OK as you moved the PCBs and I know the holes are very tight as they were meant for Grayhills.)

Those first resistors act as fuses in a way too. Rare to blow other components down the line.

Can you check that traces and vias are conducting still? I say that because I tried to unsolder components from an early prototype and I must have used too much heat and it tore or loosened some trace enough to break continuity in the circuit. So verify and eliminate physical problems first then we can look at electronics.

Did you change the 2N3055 too?

Hang in there. I know how it feels to have a piece of gear working well and then go poof! (I remember dropping a screwdriver on a Wurlitzer amp while looking at something else, only to be awakened by the smell of burning carbon and loud pops! Happens to all of us).

Jim

Benny said:
Hey guys.

I wanted to reroute some wires in my 1084 so I had to unscrew the pcbs. While doing this I must have created a short between the screws/case of the 3055 and the metal case of the unit which is 0V.
One of the 1W resistors (R106, R108, R109 I can't exactly say which one it was) went up in smoke and since then both channels don't work anymore.
I tried to fix one channel first by changing the smoked resistor and by exchanging all transistors. But still no success.
Any ideas what else could be the problem? Both channels were working before this.

Thx, Benjamin
 
Hi Jim,

I had put the pcbs on rubber pieces while rearranging the wiring, then took some of them out to fix some other things and forgot to put the two of them under the pcbs again. Stupid me ::) I still smell the resistor...

I've changed the 2N3055, too. Traces should be o.k. but I'll check that tomorrow. I checked all of the BC184 transistors I desoldered by measuring hfe and they seemed o.k. But I put in new ones to ensure they're not the problem.

It's got to be something in the amp stages cause I can hear the filter working with very weak signal.

Ben
 
O.k. Channel 1 seems to work now. Must have been a short between one of the Lorlin pins or pots to case. Gotta track that down and put everything in the box again.
 
Everything worked out well. A little rearranging of the switch/pot combos and now both channels work and are as quiet as a 1084 can be...
 
Ahhhh....what a relief eh Benny? I was confident you had not blown too many components. The 1W resistors take care of that mostly. Now go and have fun using them!

What do you mean as quiet as a 1084 can be? These guys are really quiet! I made sure of keeping signal wires routed away from any possible noisy traces. The ground plane is also there to keep RF etc. down.

I just got an email from someone that raved at how quiet they were! With Gain all the way up!
If you have noise or hum its not normal. Not on this design.

Cheers

Jim
 
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