Bo Hansen DI layout

[Tweekhead]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was told can just go with a higher voltage as long as it's the same value. Mouser part number 505-MKS2.1/250/5 should work.
I actually built mine with mouser part number 505-MKS2.1/63/10 and although they were smaller than the recommended hole spacing I just bent the leads.

 

[minor_glitch]

Thanks! 
I have one last question.  They also have one that is .1uf 63v, but the tolerance is 5% instead of 10%. Would that make any significant difference or would it be better to go with the 250v version?

 

[Tweekhead]

I'm sure the 5% or 10% will be fine, just check out how big the foot print is. Again, correct me if I'm wrong, but the % is the amount of deviation the part could have from the spec'd value.

 

[minor_glitch]

Makes sense to me.  Thanks for your help.

 

[Bo Hansen]

You can read on my www.hansenaudio.se/techpage.htm about component choices.

This 0,1uf capacitor can be any brand or type that is a plastic film type with 5 mm space between legs and can handle about 25 volts and up.

I have recommended 63 volts because this is a standard voltage of proper physical size of this capacitor.

--Bo

 

[dandeurloo]

Bo, I am almost done with 2 of your DI's!  I just have a few questions about the grounding?

1.  Should I connect pin 1 of the xlr to the tab of the xlr body so that the actual xlr is grounded to the case?  I know I need to make sure that the ground on the pcb is connected to one of the screws that holds on the xlr!  So that will be done.

2.  what is the shorted input jack?  How is that done?


Thanks

 

[dandeurloo]

Just finished the 2 DI's and they both sound great.  Thanks for the project!

I have 2 more boards and I'm not sure what transformers I will use for them.  I have a UTC o-28 maybe that and something else?

FYI, I did connect the chassis tab on the xlr to pin 1 on the xlr and I ran the chassis wire from the PCB to the screw holding the xlr in place. No noise!

 

[Bo Hansen]

Dandeurloo,

Yes, the XLR ground tab and pin 1 shall be connected together, but also secure on one of the XLR fasten screew, and from same point also connected to the pc-card chassis connecting point.

Shorted input jack can you read about on my web site www.hansenaudio.se/techpage.htm

--Bo

 

[justanalogue]

Finished the remaining 3 DI's and used them this week end for tracking of various stuff.
Silent, and basically no color, very very happy with them.

Another big thanks to Bo and all who participated in this project.

Kind regards,

Willem.

 

[Holger]

(Doesn't this belong to the lab, BTW?)

So, my version, powder coated front panel, case is from Modushop, special build for a buddy hence the special humor 

 

[[silent:arts]]

I don't know Herr oder Frau Küver,
but you did a nice work as always!

 

[Bo Hansen]

Willem & Holger, verry nice metall work.

Willem:
If you not use the LED for the outside, it is better to do a link in the place for the LED.
If you use the LED, use only a red colour because this have the lowest voltage drop.

Holger:
Have you use normal diodes instead for zener diodes for the input protection, or is this black (1N4004 style) diods 12 volts zener ??
Use the short link on the input jack, you can read about it on my tech page www.hansenaudio.se/techpage.htm

--Bo

 

[Holger]

Thanks for liking...
Bo, it's the black 1N400x style zener.
Thanks for the reminder regarding pin to ground.

 

[justanalogue]

Hello Bo,


thanks for the kind words, would it improve, sonically, when I remove the LED?

Kind regards,

Willem.

 

[Bo Hansen]

Willelm,

It makes no difference for the sonically quality, but since the LED are connected in series with the internal voltage supply, the headroom will reduce if the LED have too high a voltage drop.

Red LEDs have the smallest voltage drop, but other colors are much higher.

If no LED is used on the outside, it is unnecessary to sit and glow by itself on the inside.
In this case, make a link and save some headroom.

--Bo

 

[justanalogue]

Dear Bo,

all clear, thanks for the explanation.

Willem.

 

[minor_glitch]

Here's a REALLY rookie question. 
I'm probably going to get the hammond box Bo recommends on his page (1590-TBK).  How easy is it to drill holes in these boxes?  I haven't dealt with metalwork before and I only have a regular old handheld power drill.  Am I as screwed as I think I am?

 

[chrispbass]

Here's a REALLY rookie question.  
I'm probably going to get the hammond box Bo recommends on his page (1590-TBK).  How easy is it to drill holes in these boxes?  I haven't dealt with metalwork before and I only have a regular old handheld power drill.  Am I as screwed as I think I am?

The die-cast hammond boxes are pretty easy to drill minor-glitch. Just take your time marking out the layout (use masking tape to protect the finsh), use an automatic centre punch or if you don't have one then be very careful using a normal one as it is easy to crack these boxes by being too heavy handed with the hammer. Use a small drill first to keep the layout accurate, then work up in size till you get to the correct diameter hole. For holes bigger than 13mm, you may need a step drill or hole saw or be prepared to get busy with a file. I often write on the masking tape what size the hole is so I don't forget and end up drilling it too big!

The main problem is securing the box when drilling, so it would be useful if you can mount it in a vice or workbench etc (don't over-tighten or it will crack and be carefull you don't mark the finish). The last thing you want is this spinning around on the drill bit and causing chaos.
People may disagree, but when I haven't had access to a vice or similair, I've always been ok holding the box between my feet (work boots on) and being extra careful with the speed of the drill, but don't try this unless you are very confident in your abilities.

If you can get access to a pillar drill or buy a cheap drill stand then this will help with keeping things accurate, but if you are carefull and take your time, you can get very good results. The most important thing is that the DI works so construction first, asthetics second in my book.

 

[minor_glitch]

Thanks for the info! It sounds like something I can handle.  We'll see how it goes...

 

[minor_glitch]

Finished mine.  It doesn't look to fancy but that's alright.  The metal work was the hardest part due to my lack of proper tools.

I think I did ok for my second DIY project.  My first one was the VP26, so this was a great second project!  I posted a bunch of photos on my blog if anyone is interested:  http://minor-glitch.livejournal.com/7775.html

I have a friend dropping by with a guitar next week, so I won't know how it sounds until then.  Let me know if you spot any errors.