Bo Hansen DI layout

[warpie]

guys, would you be kind enough to bear with me for a sec?  

1) I know this has been discussed extensively but I'm a bit confused regarding the isolation and the 'switch' thing when the jack is disconnected? Will any of these 2 do the job I need?
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Jack-MO-PCB-SW.html
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Jack-MO-LUGS-ECO.html

2) Pad Mod: what type of cap is best for the 18pF?

3) Can BC109C and BC214 be used as alternatives? (I think the answer is 'yes' but I'd like to confirm that)  

thanks for this project  
w.

 

[gyraf]

(..Bo himself is currently locked out of this forum - the new software doesn't like his name, specially the e-with-a-dot-over messes up. Even this thread's title is messed . He should be back when we get this fixed...)

 

[bpucekov]

1) both
3) yes

 

[warpie]

1) both
3) yes

cool, thanks  ;D

 

[warpie]

one more question regarding the LED...

I know it needs to be red but does the physical size affects the voltage drop?
For example, a 3mm LED has smaller voltage drop than a 5mm LED?
Is this the reason is preferred/suggested by Bo, or it doesn't really matter?

thanks
w.

 

[minor_glitch]

I know it needs to be red but does the physical size affects the voltage drop?
For example, a 3mm LED has smaller voltage drop than a 5mm LED?
Is this the reason is preferred/suggested by Bo, or it doesn't really matter?

Yeah, I think this is one of those rare cases when smaller is better. 
It would make sense that a larger LED would result in a greater voltage drop.  I'm sure it would work, but it would be an unnecessary sacrifice.

 

[Bo Hansen]

Sorry, I have not had the opportunity to answer your questions in a while, because there ara a problem with the forum server that not accept the characters in my user name longer.
But now I have changed my username temporarily,  So now I'm back in place again.

Warpie,
The important thing is that the LED is red, so a 5 mm. is ok.

Use a ceramic 18 pF capasitor

And as bpucekov say, both plastic jacks is ok, and BC109C as NPN and BC214B/C as PNP is also ok.

--Bo

 

[warpie]

thanks for your help guys! 

Bo, good to hear you managed to logged in 

 

[warpie]

by the way I found this enclosure that seems to fit OK the 1538 TX. However, I'm not 100% sure yet as I haven't calculate the exact dimensions.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Aluminum-Project-Box-Enclosure-Case-Electronic-DIY1204-/300376690143?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item45efd88ddf#ht_2577wt_907

Anyone has experience with the specific box?

It looks nice, robust and I think is pretty cheap.
My only concern is the color. I really like it but I'm not sure if it'll survive after drilling and engraving but I suppose this applies to all painted enclosures...

 

[wowi]

I just finished 2 Di Boxes in a Thomann millenium DI

 

[wowi]

I just finished 2 DI Boxes in a Thomann Millenium DI-E case.

This is, what you get from Thomann for 9,90 Euro

the inside

Just throw everything away (keep the connectors and the switches) and cut off the brackets of the old transformer

Now you can fill the space with Bo's populated DI Board (The transformer is the Haufe ST8456 from Volker)
and drill a little hole for the LED

Finaly cover the ugly surface from thomann with a nice label

And here is the "Soul-Box"

There are two switches, you can use for a 20db Pad and a ground lift if you want.

Thanks Bo - Nice weekend
Wolfgang

 

[[silent:arts]]

sweet ;D ;D ;D
think I need to order soon from Aldi Sued

 

[Holger]

wowi, that's really a good idea 

 

[wolan42]

Okay,

after reading the treat and having the necessary of two DI Boxes, I ordered two PCBs from Gustav.
And here is the first one. (The first realy finished DIY by me. Some other not finished DIY projects laying around: Pultec, GreenPre, GSSL, LA4A ...)

Build it with a Beyer TR/BV 352 007 004, which i shot on eBay.
Than ordering the frontpanel from Frank (I like his work).
The neutrik sockets laying around here for some years, and there were no necessary to buy cheap sockets.
Also the enclosure.

After the first test with a Tascam  FM 1804 I love the sound. Okay the ratio is 1:7 and so I must open the gain pot. (sorry about my english. I'm not in practice for a long time).

For the second one I will try an old 75101-1 (Pre-Cinemag?).
I will need both for acoustic guitars with buildin piezo pickup.

Thanx to Bo, Soren, Gustav, Frank and for all the hints in this forum.

Andreas

 

[chrispbass]

Finished mine.  It doesn't look to fancy but that's alright.  The metal work was the hardest part due to my lack of proper tools.

I think I did ok for my second DIY project.  My first one was the VP26, so this was a great second project!  I posted a bunch of photos on my blog if anyone is interested:  http://minor-glitch.livejournal.com/7775.html

I have a friend dropping by with a guitar next week, so I won't know how it sounds until then.  Let me know if you spot any errors.

Good work MG  Any thoughts on sound characteristics?

 

[lpkyer]

Hey just to let Mr. Hansen know that we did 22 of his DIs here in a Montreal college for a mid-term soldering project. Each student had to buy a nice OEP xformer so they came out great sounding !


Tack !

 

[Bo Hansen]

Ipkyer,

Great to hear, 22 pieces of my DI-boxes, I am honored that you did this as a soldering project at college.
It would be fun to see a group picture of all these.

--Bo

 

[minor_glitch]

So that explains why diypartssupply.com is out of a262a3c's!

 

[kante1603]

Hi there,

have built two of them with HAUFE-transformers and i am really happy with them:True workhorses
Thanks to all of you for this build,especially Bo,Soeren and lunytune,Gustav and Volker at silent arts!

Best regards from germany,

Udo.

 

[kante1603]

...and some pics...
Hope it works-never done this before-excuse me when it fails!









Cheers,

Udo.