sr1200
Well-known member
looks good to me, just check that they are going into the right holes on the board (or terminals if youre using them).
[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY
- Thread starter mnats
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
college101
Well-known member
Germoju
turn the release pot around, so it follows the guide pictures from mnats site,...when stuff is backwards or inverted, your going to cause more errors...you need to follow/copy the pictures if your not going off of the schematic
Hope I can help
Just got mine working, and its the bomb
turn the release pot around, so it follows the guide pictures from mnats site,...when stuff is backwards or inverted, your going to cause more errors...you need to follow/copy the pictures if your not going off of the schematic
Hope I can help
Just got mine working, and its the bomb
thanks for your answers !
I uploaded some pictures on my topic :
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=46770.0
I uploaded some pictures on my topic :
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=46770.0
college101
Well-known member
did you check HFE on all the transistors before soldering them?
college101
Well-known member
Did you check the gain of the transistors? You have to measure this on a multimeter....
You have to match the gain levels so they function together...If one does not work, then it could be causing the problem
For example...all of my q7- q10 transistors measured 368-370-371-370 hfe
You have to match the gain levels so they function together...If one does not work, then it could be causing the problem
For example...all of my q7- q10 transistors measured 368-370-371-370 hfe
college101
Well-known member
Germoju...I found it easier to just re-do my board..but another one,buy the new parts again, and try it over...Sounds like there is a couple things you missed on your first try
I had the same problems...I let the rookie excitement overtake me, and that was what casued my errors...for real mate...Take your time, and go slow...
Install your parts in this order....resistors,diodes,Votage regulator, capacitors ,transistors, pots
Go in that order, and you should be fine...double check your measurements, and then write them down as you take them, then install and solder one part at a time...you will get it right!
I had the same problems...I let the rookie excitement overtake me, and that was what casued my errors...for real mate...Take your time, and go slow...
Install your parts in this order....resistors,diodes,Votage regulator, capacitors ,transistors, pots
Go in that order, and you should be fine...double check your measurements, and then write them down as you take them, then install and solder one part at a time...you will get it right!
college101 said:
hi,
thanks for your message
I'm desperate Sound's good but no compression !!! Arrrgg !
I was thinking about re-do the board today... That was my first soldering etc. So, as you said I was so exited to do this and afraid at the same time
college101
Well-known member
I used all the parts from Kato's mouser build of materials(BOM) from hairball audios website...and everything worked fine...even the 2N5457 on that specific build list
I would honestly thou...start over...you will pay attention and READ all the information while your waiting for the new board and parts to arrive...
In the meantime...you need to get some more exeperience soldering...The pads to solder onto the board for the transistors and the potentiometers is very small...so small that, a bridged connection can ruin the entire build- My second build, I paid extra attention to detail, and my Rev D is flawless....calibration was a breeze! If at any point, the calibration starts to become difficult, something is wrong...
I messed up my first build because of over soldering, and ruining some connections and traces...
ALL in all...really take your time and you will get it right
I would honestly thou...start over...you will pay attention and READ all the information while your waiting for the new board and parts to arrive...
In the meantime...you need to get some more exeperience soldering...The pads to solder onto the board for the transistors and the potentiometers is very small...so small that, a bridged connection can ruin the entire build- My second build, I paid extra attention to detail, and my Rev D is flawless....calibration was a breeze! If at any point, the calibration starts to become difficult, something is wrong...
I messed up my first build because of over soldering, and ruining some connections and traces...
ALL in all...really take your time and you will get it right
There's actually a pretty good website out on the 1176 build that this guy did.
I can not remember the link, but if someone could post it up, I think it would be good for upcomming builders for this unit.
Hes explained the third callibration as well in regards to distortion, which I found easy to understand. He mentioned that the third callibration was not necessary since the effect were not audible.
Great to hear you finally got a unit working college!
I can not remember the link, but if someone could post it up, I think it would be good for upcomming builders for this unit.
Hes explained the third callibration as well in regards to distortion, which I found easy to understand. He mentioned that the third callibration was not necessary since the effect were not audible.
Great to hear you finally got a unit working college!
sr1200
Well-known member
The third step is just so the meter is showing what is really going on inside the box. I usually go by ear anyway, but sometimes its nice to know what you're really dropping things by.
Echo North
Well-known member
germoju said:
Those parts have "kinked leads" so the footprint is wider. They could probably made to fit. I have enough 5457's to last a long long time so they'll be available for future builds.
college101 said:
Release pot turned around :
Attack pot :
Here I think I'm good :
When Attack is in OFF position : pad 22 is connected to ground. When Attack is ON : pad 22 is not connected to the ground. Is this good ??
Echo North
Well-known member
Just to clarify, make sure you are not confusing 'GRN" with "ground". In the UREI schematic "GRN" means green. "BLK" means black and it's the black that is connected to ground. So in the off position 22 is connected to BLK and in the on position 22 is connected to GRN.
college101
Well-known member
Good Call EchoNorth....Thats a big mistake a lot of people make
Echo North said:
Yes.
When Attack is ON : Green (my yellow) is connected to 22. When OFF it doesn't but is connected to Black (my red). So that's cool.
When I said Ground, I mean ground : I tested the connectivity between ground and 22...
When 1176 is ON : I saw that my ground is connected to 20 - 18 - 0 - 22 - 21 when Attack is ON. and to 20 - 18 - 0 - 21 when Attack is OFF. Is this normal ?
