[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[mnats]

[quote author="sysexguy"]I have a quick question for the experts. It seems a bit silly to bring the output all the way to the front panel right by the psu for the meter board. Wouldn't it be better to place a relay right between the output tranny and the output xlr, place the meter board somewhere near the output xlr and have the front panel actuate the relay as required for the meter function? In that way, when the meter is bypassed, the signal path would be optimized.[/quote]
I'm not an expert, but I am the idiot who designed these boards. I've never used the rotary switch boards - which are basically copies from Jakob's G1176 - for any of my completed builds. But I did note while laying them out that they, like the original, remove the meter from the signal path completely when switched out.

So unless I've missed something I don't see a reason for concern.

 

[mnats]

New boards arrived today - looking good. I'll be stuffing one over the coming week.

 

[Vas]

GREAT!i can't wait!will you open a thread at black market?
BEST REGARDS
BILL

 

[mnats]

[quote author="Vas"]will you open a thread at black market?[/quote]
[quote author="mnats"]Once they arrive I'll get onto stuffing the board and dropping it into my already-built dualie. If they work as advertised, I'll make a post on the Black Market.

That's the scoop - please feel free to ask any questions right here. But please, let's not turn this into a "I want two sets of boards" thread. I will post in the Black Market when the time comes.[/quote]
I'd love to finish building and testing the boards and would rather not spend my time answering questions that I only answered a few posts ago...

 

[mnats]

Sorry for the shite pictures. 1st boards stuffed and calibrated...tests OK. Will post again soon...

 

[mnats]

Ok, boards on offer @ the Black Market. PDF file for self-etch here.

 

[okgb]

I know it's subjective , and you've listed the " refinements " for your
latest D pcb over the previous version but i have a pair of D boards from
your last batch and am considering getting this newer version instead ?

Nothing wrong with the last version but you took the opportunity
to make a couple tweaks since a new batch was coming ? Does this
latest version make the build much easier or as i guess really things
i should assess for my particular case . How much happier were you
with it ?

Thanks again for making a fine board available
[ i'm getting to mine ..........really ! ]

tia regards Greg

 

[Stagefright13]

Come on Greg you didn't build yours yet? Slap! Just kidding.

It don't think it will be easier to build. The jumpers are nice for calibration tho. But on my original board I put a socket in to remove the trimmer for calibration.

 

[Stagefright13]

Andy the front panel shouldn't be any where near the psu. At least in a single channel one. I used shielded cable for everything lol. If in doubt shield it! Mine is whisper quiet.

 

[sysexguy]

Hi John, Mnats, thanks for the advice, hopefully my next post is me :green:

Andy

 

[mnats]

[quote author="okgb"]I know it's subjective , and you've listed the " refinements " for your
latest D pcb over the previous version but i have a pair of D boards from
your last batch and am considering getting this newer version instead ?
...
Thanks again for making a fine board available
[ i'm getting to mine ..........really ! ][/quote]
As I mentioned to you in reply to your PM about the boards I feel like I've been upfront about both versions. The self-etch files of both versions with overlay, top and bottom layers are still up on my Rev D site and I've linked to the post outlining the changes to the new batch in my board sales post. I don't really think it's up to me to decide which boards you should have.

I will say, though, that I'm not really interested in selling PCBs to those who are just collecting boards for "someday" but would rather see them go to active builders. It always make the effort worth it to me when I see people post their finished builds and tell me that they use them all the time!

Each board has the same number of components and describes exactly the same circuit so neither one is "easier" to build than the other. As Stagefright13 mentioned, the jumpers for the meter calibration make aligning the unit a bit easier, but it's not exactly a huge milestone. Where there were things I thought I could do better, I tried.

[quote author="okgb"]Nothing wrong with the last version but you took the opportunity
to make a couple tweaks since a new batch was coming ? Does this
latest version make the build much easier or as i guess really things
i should assess for my particular case . How much happier were you
with it ?[/quote]
BTW, there was an issue with the earlier boards, also well documented, but I corrected each one that was sent out after the fault was discovered. And yes, I'm happier with the new boards because I don't have to fix each one that goes out...

 

[mitsos]

hey all,

back to the attenuator question... I found an old 500 Ohm T attenuator in my pile-o-junk... Would this work, just not "attenuate" as much as the 600 Ohm? I guess as soon as I have all the rest of the parts I'll give it a shot anyway, since I am having trouble finding a 600 Ohm.. But wanted to hear from you all if this would NOT work for any reason not so obvious to my noob mind.
thanks...

 

[okgb]

No Problem , you've gone more than the distance with these
so thanks anyway . Thanks for letting us know how you feel .

btw i'm not collecting boards , it's just that it's a serious investment ,
in for a penny , in for a pound , I'd like them to be as good as possible
and hence part of the question to you [ and pm'ing was trying not to
make a big deal of it ] so if i can make it better , why not ?

So here's my stuffed boards and parts in the cue

they're no good if you can't use em , so pitter patter i gotta get at er

regards Greg





Now if we could only save the world with better compression

 

[jpuhhuh]

Hey Greg,
I like your panel layout. You can tell you use think like you are going to use it. If I may ask where you did it?
Nicely done.
JP

 

[okgb]

A fellow lab member made them in exchange for pcbs ,
but i am working a library of designs that you can take to
the average trophy engraver and get done ,
there's one on Mcphillips and another on St James ,
i can email some IF i have what you are looking for .

regards Greg

 

[Vas]

hi everyone!i would like to know if there are any pec or other 600Ω ATTENUATORS available or if a group buy is going to take placeas long as a new batch of pcbs are available?
a part # or any other information would help!
best regards
bill

 

[maxwall]

Vas,


some group action might be good
Count me in as well, I'll be needing 2 PEC T600 Attenuators

 

[dissonantstring]

hi guys,
here's what ed anderson says earlier in the thread:

[quote author="edanderson"]
PEC in canada makes a reasonable facsimile of the two deck bridged-T attenuator, and supplies them to UA. i think i heard about someone getting one from UA for ~$50? but then i believe the same person said it was scratchy after six months. i got a quote from precisionsales.com and the 50 pcs price was $35ea. the part number is 05-0007 if anyone wants to go that route. you are unlikely to find anyone else willing to make the unusual tapers that are required for this part.
ed[/quote]

just FYI.

 

[Vas]

hi maxwall!

i think that it would be better a member from canada/u.s. should organize a group buy as long as PEC is in canada,actually an another u.s. member here has helped me a lot to locate various 1176 project parts(knobs,pushbutton banks,caps e.t.c)so we are trying to locate a source for t-pad attenuators too!
but the think is that we do not have enough information! :?

so if anyone knows a part #,he could post it here so maybe we could organize a new groupbuy from pec!



:!:

 

[Vas]

[quote author="dissonantstring"]hi guys,
here's what ed anderson says earlier in the thread:

[quote author="edanderson"]
PEC in canada makes a reasonable facsimile of the two deck bridged-T attenuator, and supplies them to UA. i think i heard about someone getting one from UA for ~$50? but then i believe the same person said it was scratchy after six months. i got a quote from precisionsales.com and the 50 pcs price was $35ea. the part number is 05-0007 if anyone wants to go that route. you are unlikely to find anyone else willing to make the unusual tapers that are required for this part.
ed[/quote]

just FYI.[/quote]
THANKS!i think i missed that :roll:
best regards
bill