[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

[pearldrum944]

As I understand it, if using the pot switch, nothing from main board 22 and G or Ratio board BLK and GRN goes to the meter board at all.  These connections all go to the switch on the pot.

I have wired this using two single connector (plus shield wires).
Do you mean two core cable with shield?

One wire goes from the ratio board GRN (shield connected to ratio board BLK) and then connects to the pot switch with the shield on the upper connector and the main wire (GRN) on the lower connector.
From my pic, the pot solder tabs looks like this.
A B
C
See how A and B have red wires in the pic. Green writing is for the green arrow lines.
Meter GRN -> A (red wire)
Meter BLK -> C (shield)

The shield on this wire is carrying the signal from BLK on the ratio board to the switch.
The shield runs from Ratio BLK -> Meter BLK -> Pot C


The second wire (single core cable with shield) goes from main board 22 and the G pad beside it.  
Yes

The shield connects to the G pad.  

At the switch, the main wire connects to the common terminal on the switch; the shield connects to the upper terminal of the switch (which also connects to the shield of the other wire, which is connected to BLK on the ration board).

Is this correct?  Should I be using a two conductor wire to connect from the switch to the ratio board GRN and BLK?   Explain this bit a little further please, what do you mean by switch? Are you talking about the solder tabs at the back of the pot - A B C as I mentioned above?

With the Hairball kit, you are not supposed to use the blk, grn, and 22 connections on the Meter PCB, but connect directly from the ratio PCB, GR bypass switch, and main PCB.


Also, update on my issue...  I have compression, +4 and +8 meter settings work, but GR setting only works in SLAM mode.  Anyone have an idea?

 

[Philo]

As I understand it, if using the pot switch, nothing from main board 22 and G or Ratio board BLK and GRN goes to the meter board at all.  
These connections all go to the switch on the pot.

I have wired this using two single connector (plus shield wires).
Do you mean two core cable with shield?
No, one wire plus shield for each of the two single conductor cables. 

One wire goes from the ratio board GRN (with its shield connected to ratio board BLK) and then connects to the pot switch with the shield on the upper connector (A) and the main wire (GRN) on the lower connector (C).

From my pic, the pot solder tabs looks like this.
A B
C
See how A and B have red wires in the pic. Green writing is for the green arrow lines.
Meter GRN -> A (red wire)
Meter BLK -> C (shield)

I confess, you using green writing to refer to the green arrows which point to the BLACK (shield) wire confused me!

Using your A, B, and C letters, A is the top terminal, B is the common, and C is the bottom terminal. 

I have this reversed, with the two shields (BLK and G) connected to the top terminal (A) and the wire from the ratio board (GRN) connected to the bottom terminal (C).

But shouldn't the common (22, connected to pot switch terminal B) connect to ground (BLK, on pot switch terminal A) in order to bypass gain reduction and then connect to the GRN (on pot switch terminal C) in order to enable gain reduction? 

On my pot switch, when the pot switch is clicked to off, the A and B terminals are connected.  When the pot switch is enabled (e.g. not OFF), the B and C terminals are connected.  This suggests that the BLK (shield) and shield for the 22 wire (connected to G on the main board) should both be connected to the A terminal on the pot switch.  Then when the pot switch is OFF, the A (BLK) and B (22) terminals are connected, switching 22 to ground (BLK) and disabling gain reduction.




The shield on this wire is carrying the signal from BLK on the ratio board to the switch.
The shield runs from Ratio BLK -> Meter BLK -> Pot C

Just to be clear, you don't have any of these (22, G, GRN, BLK) wires running to the meter board at all, correct?
Mike at Hairball explicitly says not to connect anything to the 22, BLK, and GRN pads on the meter board unless using the alternate wiring, which I am not.  Are you?  (I wouldn't think so, since you are using the switch on the attack pod to enable/disable gain reduction.


The second wire (single core cable with shield) goes from main board 22 and the G pad beside it.  
Yes

The shield connects to the G pad.  

At the switch, the main wire connects to the common terminal on the switch; the shield connects to the upper terminal of the switch (which also connects to the shield of the other wire, which is connected to BLK on the ration board).

Is this correct?  Should I be using a two conductor wire to connect from the switch to the ratio board GRN and BLK?  
Explain this bit a little further please, what do you mean by switch? Are you talking about the solder tabs at the back of the pot - A B C as I mentioned above?
I mean the switch on the back of the attack pot.  (which has the three solder tabs you refer to as A,B, and C


Thanks for your help and patience.

 

[pearldrum944]

Okay, I am having trouble calibrating both of my mnats/hairball rev d's.  Here are my transistor voltages:

Unit 1:unable to bias; bias pot makes no change.
Rails:  29.4/ -9.8

Q1  GSD    -.9 /  0      / 0
Q2  ECB    .3 /  1.5    / .6
Q3            .9 /  5.1  / 1.5
Q14        4.6 /  29.3  / 5.1
Q4            .5 /  4.0    / 1.0
Q5          2.7 /  24.7  / 2.9
Q7         3.9 /  14.5  / 4.2
Q8        13.8 /  29.3  / 14.3
Q9          2.9 /  16.3  / 3.4
Q10        16.2 /  29.3  / 16.3
Q11  GSD  -.6 /  -2.4  / 16.3    (???)
Q12 ECB  -1.7 /  16.2  / -2.4

Unit 2: no 10db swing max of 6.5, when turning input past 1 o'clock level no longer rises
Rails: 29.2/-9.8

Q1 GSD      -.4 /  0    / 0
Q2 ECB       .2 /  1.4  / .6
Q3              .8 /  5.1  / 1.4
Q14          4.5 /  29.2 / 5.1
Q4              .5 /    3.9  / 1.0
Q5            2.7 /  24.6  /  2.9
Q7           3.9 /  14.4  / 4.1
Q8          13.9 /  29.2  / 14.4
Q9            2.8 /  16.1  / 3.3
Q10        16.1 /  29.2  / 16.1
Q11 GSD    -.3 /  -.8    / 9.8
Q12 ECB  -1.4 /  8.7    / -.8

Anything look out of whack?

 

[pearldrum944]

Bump?

 

[lpjensen]

Is this black wire in the middle's pot switch goes to the ratio board too? or am I miss understanding the image?
I thought this wire goes directly to the main board pad 22 only.. is this correct??

Cheers and really thanks for the images!!

Eddie

O.K. hopefully this is more clear on exactly what I have done. I am following Skylar diagram and a mixture of what I perceive to be what Hairball was telling me.

Mike, I did not receive the new boards for the Altran Transformer.

Quick question: Does pad 22 from the main PCB go to common on the SPDT switch on the attack pot, and pad 22 on the meter board?? Or just the SPDT??

 

[Philo]

Per the wiring instructions from Mike at Hairball, if you are using the switch on the attack pot to enable/disable gain reduction, then NO wires should be connected to the 22, BLK, or GRN on the METER board at all.  These connections on the METER board are only used with the alternate wiring (e.g. NO switch on the attack pot).  The diagram shows connections to the METER board which are not actually used with the Hairball kit when using an attack pot with a switch.

When wiring with a switch on the attack pot:

One wire should be coming from the main board to the switch, with the 22 signal connecting to the common switch terminal (AKA B) and the G on the main board connected via the shield of the same wire that carries the 22 signal.  This shield will go to the A terminal on the switch.

The other wire connects the RATIO board's BLK (via the shield on the cable) and the GRN (via the main wire on the cable) to the switch on the attack pot.

The two shield wires should be connected together at the A terminal on the switch (connecting Ratio BLK to Main Board G on the A switch terminal) and the GRN signal from the Ratio board connected to the C terminal on the switch.  When the switch is in the OFF position, the A terminal and B terminal will be connected.  This connects the 22 wire to ground (as well as BLK and G), disabling Gain reduction.  When the switch is in the ON position, the C terminal and the B terminal will be connected.  This connects the 22 wire to GRN, enabling gain reduction.

Note that the G connection on the main board MUST also be connected to ground to reduce hum.

This wiring is the opposite of what I see in CanIDoIt's photo, but does work.  I used the attack pot with switch from Mouser that is referenced in the Hairball part list.

 

[jandoste]

Hi All,
I'm newbie here and I am software engineer not hardware but  I would like/love to learn!
my question is that ;  where  I will weld them?

Thanks !
All the best,
jan

 

[Futureman]

Hi All,
I'm newbie here and I am software engineer not hardware but  I would like/love to learn!
my question is that ;  where  I will weld them?
All the best,
jan

You should really get help for that part of the build from a electrician / technician, you are dealing with potentially LEATHAL voltages, and you may DIE if you get it wrong.

(Also, the term is "Solder" not "Weld", but I'm guessing english is not your native language)

Kind regards
Mike

 

[ilfungo]

sorry I still do the same question...
I realized 6x1176  with hairball kits and i am very happy!!!
I would build a REV D OEP in out
somebody tell me if it is possible?
thanks

 

[jandoste]

Hi All,
I'm newbie here and I am software engineer not hardware but  I would like/love to learn!
my question is that ;  where  I will weld them?
All the best,
jan

You should really get help for that part of the build from a electrician / technician, you are dealing with potentially LEATHAL voltages, and you may DIE if you get it wrong.

(Also, the term is "Solder" not "Weld", but I'm guessing english is not your native language)

Kind regards
Mike

Thanks Mike

 

[jandoste]

sorry I still do the same question...
I realized 6x1176   with hairball kits and i am very happy!!!
I would build a REV D OEP in out
somebody tell me if it is possible?
thanks

Are you kidding???? do you know the word : help?? I was asking if you can help me with your experience!!
yes, I cannot write/speak english but I never used the word "denigrate" who needs to my help !!
Anyway, thanks !
best,

 

[ilfungo]

excuse jandoste
I do not understand what you mean
I'm sorry I do not understand English well

 

[Soeren_DK]

EDIT: removed.. Not correct

Cheers
Søren

 

[jandoste]

excuse jandoste
I do not understand what you mean
I'm sorry I do not understand English well

I think it was the reply from Jan was pointed at Futureman's reply

(Also, the term is "Solder" not "Weld", but I'm guessing english is not your native language)

Are you kidding?Huh do you know the word : help?? I was asking if you can help me with your experience!!
yes, I cannot write/speak english but I never used the word "denigrate" who needs to my help !!
Anyway, thanks !
best,

Correct me if I'm wrong Jan.
Cheers
Søren

Hi Soren,
No, I think I miss understood to ilfungo sorry
I just didn't understand that, to where I will solder the output transformer (cinemag CM96731)? and I spoke a technicien and he asked me 150€!!! so I will do it to myself but how I am not sure

 

[Futureman]

yes, I cannot write/speak english but I never used the word "denigrate" who needs to my help !!

I'm not sure if that was directed at me, but if so. I was not trying to 'denigrate' you. I just wanted to save you from dying.

What country are you from? What voltage is your country? 110V ? 240V ?

Look here, down the bottom.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/avelspecs.pdf

Then get back to us.

 

[Harpo]

Look here, down the bottom.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/avelspecs.pdf

...IF (and only then) this is the manufacturer of your transformer.
Jan, look up the datasheet from YOUR transformer. The colour coding is not standarized and you don't want to mix up the wires.

 

[jandoste]

yes, I cannot write/speak english but I never used the word "denigrate" who needs to my help !!

I'm not sure if that was directed at me, but if so. I was not trying to 'denigrate' you. I just wanted to save you from dying.

What country are you from? What voltage is your country? 110V ? 240V ?

Look here, down the bottom.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/avelspecs.pdf

Then get back to us.

No,it was not for you Futureman  
sorry for this bug and thanks for helping me!
I'm in France 240V.
I'll try to find with PDF. if I cannot do it , sure I will turnback
Thanks again
best,

 

[ilfungo]

sorry I still do the same question...
I realized 6x1176   with hairball kits and i am very happy!!!
I would build a REV D OEP in out

somebody tell me if it is possible?
thanks

somebody can help me?

 

[jandoste]

Look here, down the bottom.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/avelspecs.pdf

...IF (and only then) this is the manufacturer of your transformer.
Jan, look up the datasheet from YOUR transformer. The colour coding is not standarized and you don't want to mix up the wires.

Thanks Harpo,
I think if I am not wrong thats it


best,

 

[Futureman]

Look here, down the bottom.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/avelspecs.pdf

...IF (and only then) this is the manufacturer of your transformer.
Jan, look up the datasheet from YOUR transformer. The colour coding is not standarized and you don't want to mix up the wires.

I should have elaborated, but this is the same transformer that Hairball supplies..

But yes, as allways, check the specs of your transformer.