Can solder be nickel-plated?

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it almost worked, I learned a few things. The surface is quite spotty, I can now recreate the look of a 60 year old microphone that has been heavily used. ;)

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Everything that has been written in this thread regarding the preparatory work is correct. The preliminary work is absolutely important and must be carried out very carefully.

Here I have tried with how little preparation you can still achieve a good result. If the piece is not clean enough, the plating will not hold. Fail!

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Next time I will also use hydrochloric acid as the final cleaning step.

The story continues...
 
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If you happen to have some aluminum to test your DIY nickel plating on, I’d be very interested in your results.

Because machining is easier and also to save costs, I mainly used aluminum (EN-AW 6060, 2007, 7075) for the bodies of my microphone prototypes. Appearance is secondary, but I have been looking for ways to keep it conductive. (And Gleier Galvanik is currently not accepting orders from private customers.)
 
If you happen to have some aluminum to test your DIY nickel plating on, I’d be very interested in your results.

Because machining is easier and also to save costs, I mainly used aluminum (EN-AW 6060, 2007, 7075) for the bodies of my microphone prototypes.
I think for aluminium you need an intermediate layer of copper. I will certainly try that...
 
I think my dad has a few spent 20mm brass shells for me , he did around half his working life in the Irish navy . I know one guy who is a squaddie alright , he's more or less on an educational path now on his way out of the army ,but he still has to attend the range everyonce in a while , he might be able to find me a few extra .

I do have one pair of huge artillery shells for decorative purposes, they stand over two feet high , so the story goes the last time the Irish army fired that gun ,the projectile bounced off a hilltop and landed on a farmers chicken shack down in the valley , he was of course compensated for the damage .

Encouraging results Rock , looks like impurities on the surface might have caused the pock marked finish , the plates used in the process have interesting paternation on them too .
 
Encouraging results Rock , looks like impurities on the surface might have caused the pock marked finish , the plates used in the process have interesting paternation on them too .
This smallpox can have many causes. Impurities on the test piece but also in the nickel, vinegar, salt or even in the water. In addition, there is also current and voltage, whose influence on the result I still have to test.

Then there are the bubbles that occur during plating. If they remain in the same place for too long, they may also cause such poxes. I have seen some people on YouTube who "move" the nickel bath with a small air pump to prevent the bubbles from sticking.

I think this is all solvable with the next experiments at the weekend.
 
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Here the cathode and anode after producing the acetate.

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Now it becomes clear why this is sometimes called a Opferanode (sacrificial anode) in german.
 
An aquarium air pump would probably do the job quite well ,
But even a poxed finish might look nice if its evenly spread and it doesnt peel or flake , it has a crackled effect thats quite organic ,
Beadblasting after the plating process might level out the bumps a bit .
Ive knoticed nickel plated mic boddies respond well to a bit of a polish , there usually matt finish , but you can get it upto shiney with very little work ,
My typical donor mic has been either the Behringer B-1 or B-2 pro , they have a velvety beadblasted finish , but take a polish very well , theres no getting rid of the logo though , your stuck with that.
 

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