D-AOC PCBs - the building and help Thread

[mjproc]

thanks the screw doesn't touch the top, that just looks like.
...
im a poor fotographer...

Is that a Deathbringer Tube Composer case?  (bet this is a bit better.....)

If it is..... how did you "flatten" the bottom of the case (under the pcb)?

 

[Brizco]

thanks the screw doesn't touch the top, that just looks like.
...
im a poor fotographer...

Is that a Deathbringer Tube Composer case?  (bet this is a bit better.....)

If it is..... how did you "flatten" the bottom of the case (under the pcb)?

i did not flatten it, it just works without flattening anything. i really can recommend to buy these behringer units used for cheap.
the power trafo is useable for other projects too, the cases are good.

and yes, the sound quality is better...

 

[pucho812]

I wonder, will behringer try and clone a daoc in the behringer case? hmmmmm

 

[[silent:arts]]

I wonder, will behringer try and clone a daoc in the behringer case? hmmmmm

Uli is welcome to buy us out ;D

 

[dagoose]

a couple of months a go i ordered a n ew schaeffer panel for my d-aoc, didn't show of yet, now it;s the time.  ;D

 

[radiance]

Nice one!

....but was it not D-OAC??  ;D

 

[dagoose]

Nice one!

....but was it not D-OAC??  ;D

Thanks!

yes... it was a d-oac but now i upgraded it to a d-aoc and it sounds way better now!  ;D (or is that because of the lundahl input maybe?)

 

[babyhead]

I am FINALLY putting a BOM together for this beast and I have a question-

Is LM338 a sub for LM350? I can get it in T0-3 and alleviate the heater problem. It looks like it's straight out of the datasheet 'regulator with protection diodes'

I am also thinking about adding a single grounded cathode stage with a mic input with fixed gain, like a 1/2 bottle, and keeping a separate line input stock. Good fun.

Thanks all.




 

 

[Silvas]

I am FINALLY putting a BOM together for this beast and I have a question-

Is LM338 a sub for LM350? I can get it in T0-3 and alleviate the heater problem. It looks like it's straight out of the datasheet 'regulator with protection diodes'

That´s what i used. Should be fine.

 

[Lowfreq]

Ok, I'm back to installing my bypass boards...................Oh dear............
I'd left them out as I seemed to have no luck the first time, with them at all.

The problem is that when I have them all hooked up, the 24v shorts out.
The 24v is working fine, and tests well on the mutimeter, without boards attached. I've even used it to power up some lights no problem, so I know it works.

As soon as bypass boards are attached, down goes the 24v..................

I've checked the boards, and it seems to be making contact at pins 1 & 16 of the relay. Testing with the multimeter shows they are connecting somehow. I've check every possible option for a bad solder, or shorting, with nothing..........

It seems like the connection is inside the relay between pins 1 & 16, which also means 24v & 0v are in direct contact with each other.
Are my relays broken?  ??? It does it on both boards.

I had a look at the omron datasheet. http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-g5v2.pdf
It looks like pins 1 & 16 are connected in the diagram. I'm confused........
The board itself looks very easy to wire up, but I just can't get around whatever is connecting 24v & 0v together.

Have I damaged my relays somehow? Is that even possible???

 

[ilfungo]

Sorry
where I can find PCB?
Thanks....

 

[Silvas]

Ok, I'm back to installing my bypass boards...................Oh dear............
I'd left them out as I seemed to have no luck the first time, with them at all.

The problem is that when I have them all hooked up, the 24v shorts out.
The 24v is working fine, and tests well on the mutimeter, without boards attached. I've even used it to power up some lights no problem, so I know it works.

As soon as bypass boards are attached, down goes the 24v..................

I've checked the boards, and it seems to be making contact at pins 1 & 16 of the relay. Testing with the multimeter shows they are connecting somehow. I've check every possible option for a bad solder, or shorting, with nothing..........

It seems like the connection is inside the relay between pins 1 & 16, which also means 24v & 0v are in direct contact with each other.
Are my relays broken?  ??? It does it on both boards.

I had a look at the omron datasheet. http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-g5v2.pdf
It looks like pins 1 & 16 are connected in the diagram. I'm confused........
The board itself looks very easy to wire up, but I just can't get around whatever is connecting 24v & 0v together.

Have I damaged my relays somehow? Is that even possible???

Maybe the diodes are in reverse?

 

[[silent:arts]]

Maybe the diodes are in reverse?

most possible. you don't have to exchange / reverse them.
make sure both diodes have the black ring faced to the same side.
the positive switching voltage goes to that side.

 

[[silent:arts]]

Sorry
where I can find PCB?
Thanks....

contact me with your location (and while there put it in your profile too)

 

[Eje2005]

So after 2 nice months with this beauty its over.

I forgot to turn it off during easter, came back to the studio on Tuesday and found the meters to be dead and the unit cold and the fuse somewhat darker, but not dead.

Opened it up and saw that the R1 is burned and that the legs of the TL783 a little bit darker than usual.

Tubes light up but not the neons (NE2).

Didn't measure any voltages yet but did some quick beeping to see if anything shorted to ground. Everything looks fine, except one thing:

The middle leg of the LM350 connects to ground, and not via the heatsink but via the pcb. This shouldn't be right?

The thing has been working fine before this, dont know why this happened, maybe a power surge during the weekend ?

Any help is much appreciated!

 

[Lowfreq]

Relays FIXED!!!!!  ;D ;D

It was the fault of the diodes, but not because they were in the wrong way round. I made sure I double checked that many times before firing things up.

I took the diodes off the board to check if the relay was making the connection. No connection through relay, so that eliminated that part.
So I tested the diodes on their own, and they were connecting like a bare piece of wire!! 

So I must've had some dogdy diodes. A bad batch maybe? I put some new ones in, and now the relay boards work perfectly. 8)

I don't understand how a diode can go bad, let alone four of them.......................
Anyway, problem solved, finally!!

Now, can I still light my LEDs off the 24v? Is there enough ampage to do that?
Where is everyone taking power for lighting from in their DAOCs?

 

[kazper]

So after 2 nice months with this beauty its over.

I forgot to turn it off during easter, came back to the studio on Tuesday and found the meters to be dead and the unit cold and the fuse somewhat darker, but not dead.

Opened it up and saw that the R1 is burned and that the legs of the TL783 a little bit darker than usual.

Tubes light up but not the neons (NE2).

Didn't measure any voltages yet but did some quick beeping to see if anything shorted to ground. Everything looks fine, except one thing:

The middle leg of the LM350 connects to ground, and not via the heatsink but via the pcb. This shouldn't be right?

The thing has been working fine before this, dont know why this happened, maybe a power surge during the weekend ?

Any help is much appreciated!

Middle pin is your voltage out which feeds an output reference circuit, couple capacitors and a few tubes heaters.... Those heaters are fairly close to a dead short to ground themselves. Pull all the tubes and try it again... if you don't have a tube glow I'd pull the LM305 and check the C8/C9 capacitors before I re stuffed a new LM350 onboard. I doubt it's the caps.

Do you have isolation to the heat sync and is it large enough?

 

[Eje2005]

Thanks Kazper, yeah heatsink and isolation is enough. I pulled the tubes out and there is no short, i missed that completely, so im good with the heaters, tubes light up.

Will change R1 and see what happens, hopefully its just that.

My studio is in a apartment building, Could it be that if people left for the holidays and decreased the power consumption thus increasing the AC in my outlet?
Is that even possible?
I´ve seen it diff around 10 volts before. Im in Sweden and we have 230V.

 

[ilfungo]

It's good for this project like main power?
Thanks
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/language/en/info/p1361_Toroidal-transformer-230V----270V--14V.html/XTCsid/8aff2f44acab66fc5e959b04635762d0

 

[[silent:arts]]

It's good for this project like main power?

yes