dbx 160vu clone

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Yes. 25v (preferably ~20-24ish but 25 will work fine) Those voltage readings are exactly in the ballpark on what is needed to run this board.
Abe
 
abechap024 said:
Yes. 25v (preferably ~20-24ish but 25 will work fine) Those voltage readings are exactly in the ballpark on what is needed to run this board.
Abe
Hmmm...this is how I have it wired.  But when I check the pads on the Alt PS to ground, I get:

Pad 1: -46.7
Pad 2: *ground*
Pad 3: +17
Pad 4: -48.2
Pad 5: +18.5

Everything is wired correctly.  All solder joints are good.  Maybe I'm missing something:
Left side:
powersupplyL.jpg

Right side:
powersupplyR.jpg
 
Rob Flinn said:
Unfortunately since I don't have the board myself, I don't even know what pad 1 to 5 are, so it's difficult for me to help you further at the moment.  
Here ya go, Rob - it's the purple oval down at the lower right hand side of the board.  Does this help?

dbx160VUcloneboardb.jpg
 
I'm thinking I should not be using those pads for checking voltage. 

Instead, I measured across the filter caps (C36, C37).  C36 reads about 18V across it's terminals, C37 reads about 48V across its terminals.

From AC In to the diode bridge to the filter caps, are these voltages across the filter caps acceptable?

 
damnyankee said:
I'm thinking I should not be using those pads for checking voltage. 

Instead, I measured across the filter caps (C36, C37).  C36 reads about 18V across it's terminals, C37 reads about 48V across its terminals.

From AC In to the diode bridge to the filter caps, are these voltages across the filter caps acceptable?

Now when you say "across the terminals" I'm thinking that if I understand you correctly you need to always have the black probe connected to ground to get any usable voltage measurements...otherwise your just measuring voltage drop. Unless that is what your doing and I just am mis understanding you.

Also those pads are the most convenient place to measure.

Your transistors...That might be the problem...how did you place them (I cant really tell and I don't have my unit in front of me)? The silkscreen on the prototype board is incorrect. You have to look at the transistor from the bottom then the footprint makes sense...If thats how you did it then great!

Its almost like those capacitors are acting like voltage doublers.....how else to explain the -40 on the positive pad.
Looking at your transistors again I think they are wrong...
 
Hi Abe,

To confirm: yes, black probe to ground, red probe to the pads.

Ya know, I looked at those transistors and I recall I had to bend one of the legs back so they would align into the holes.  Let me check those again and confirm placement tonight.

I can't thank you enough for all your help and mentoring!  If those transistors aren't the issue, I'll forward you my board as well as those mics for you to check out.

Sound good?
 
Yes that sounds good. I have an extended weekend coming up so now would be a good time. You don't need to send those mics....come to think of it I won't really have enough time to test them out. But I do appreciate the offer. It will be good enough to get one of these fired up that use the discrete units! Then I can send some hopefully useful voltages to Bias Rocks.
Cheers and Goodluck!
Abe

....also you've had those 200/208 units attached while the power supply wasn't working correctly right?? We might need to go in and replace some parts in them...shouldn't be a big deal just something to be aware of...
 
These do look really great. We now just need to find some great knobs for them.  I have 2 vintage era DBX here and they both have different knobs.  One is a DBX 128 with all aluminum knobs and the other is a DBX 161 and it has plastic knobs with a silver cap in the center.  I know Hairball has the meters so these babies are gonna be great projects!

If you guys can let me know who and how many of these we need.  That would be very helpful so I can try and get started on them.

Thanks
 
Great looking front. Regarding knobs, I think hairball 1176 attack/release knobs would look fab there, if the size is similar?
 
Me thinks the brushed silver knobs in this style would look KILLER with that black background and silver silkscreen:

http://www.audionote.co.uk/comp/trimmings.shtml

 
Those both look like they could work pretty well....anyone know who made the originals? Or any good knob sources online? Maybe a group buy could be in order....
Cheers
 
Abe,

Take a look here...they have over 400 different styles of pot knobs:

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/searchresults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Ntt=knob

There's a few that look like dbx 117, 118, 119, 160 knobs:
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9047109
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9047121
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7590017

Also, I think there's a couple of black teardrop knobs that might work for the Lang PEQ2 clone: *hint hint!*  ;D
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9480483
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5438000
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=5438010

 
Hi All,
Boards should be sent out to me on the 1st. I'm really excited. Here is a BOM for the CLX-VU  ;D build (CLX is 160 in roman numerals)
This is for the THAT chip build 2nd rev:

BOM for 2nd REV CLX-VU THAT chip based Build
PCB Board for REV2 CLX-VU Build
The Schematic for CLX-VU 2nd Rev


Also I'll upload the discrete vca build BOM in a bit. For those eager enough to try it :D. All in all the That chip is cheaper and sounds great. But the Discrete VCA seems like a fun challenge all in itself.
 
Sorry in advance if this has been answered before.

If one were to install 2 of these boards in one box can one take the power from the optional power in to the same point on the other board to save on PSU components ?  i.e not installing the PSU parts on the 2nd board.  Obviously installing C50,51,53,54 on the 2nd board.   



 
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