GssL 20th Anniversary edition

[Andado]

Looks good but consider making a mock up with the knobs and switches etc to double check before getting it made.

thanks. Yeah probably a good and economical thing to do

 

[chrispbass]

Is it big difference between Input 1206 vs 5534

thanks. Yeah probably a good and economical thing to do

Definitely as it may require a bit of fine tuning and you’ll be peeved if you don’t!!

 

[Lipaz]

Just a recommendation: create the unit first, install all parts to PCB, measure everything before you order a rack and design and order a nice frontplate. I plan to buy a cheap but solid piece of plastic or plexi in the local DIY store (preferably ESD safe material), cut it to actual size, print the frontplate design and stick it onto it (simple paper), drill/cut holes accordingly, and check if it could work well. Then I'll know if I still need some modification in knob placement, or in the scales, plus I will know exacty wht knobs I can go for. Again, this is just my 2 cents, but I think it is worth the effort and that 14 EUR it may cost. Better than cry over a nice alu frontplate that is poorly designed by me, mothing fit in a nice way to actual dimensions, cost much more (especially if useless) and I should live with it. Plus that 4mm plexi can be used multiple times for other things too... until it looks like a cheesegrater. Alternative option can be free if you have some cardboard around, or even a piece of plywood.

 

[Andado]

Just a recommendation: create the unit first, install all parts to PCB, measure everything before you order a rack and design and order a nice frontplate. I plan to buy a cheap but solid piece of plastic or plexi in the local DIY store (preferably ESD safe material), cut it to actual size, print the frontplate design and stick it onto it (simple paper), drill/cut holes accordingly, and check if it could work well. Then I'll know if I still need some modification in knob placement, or in the scales, plus I will know exacty wht knobs I can go for. Again, this is just my 2 cents, but I think it is worth the effort and that 14 EUR it may cost. Better than cry over a nice alu frontplate that is poorly designed by me, mothing fit in a nice way to actual dimensions, cost much more (especially if useless) and I should live with it. Plus that 4mm plexi can be used multiple times for other things too... until it looks like a cheesegrater. Alternative option can be free if you have some cardboard around, or even a piece of plywood.

I will 3d print my front plate as soon as i have all the parts for it.

 

[inf0]

Just a recommendation: create the unit first, install all parts to PCB, measure everything before you order a rack and design and order a nice frontplate. I plan to buy a cheap but solid piece of plastic or plexi in the local DIY store (preferably ESD safe material), cut it to actual size, print the frontplate design and stick it onto it (simple paper), drill/cut holes accordingly, and check if it could work well. Then I'll know if I still need some modification in knob placement, or in the scales, plus I will know exacty wht knobs I can go for. Again, this is just my 2 cents, but I think it is worth the effort and that 14 EUR it may cost. Better than cry over a nice alu frontplate that is poorly designed by me, mothing fit in a nice way to actual dimensions, cost much more (especially if useless) and I should live with it. Plus that 4mm plexi can be used multiple times for other things too... until it looks like a cheesegrater. Alternative option can be free if you have some cardboard around, or even a piece of plywood.

Good suggestions! I've done a lot of front panel prototyping on foamboard . Very easy to work with for getting a general sense of layout , although not the most accurate. Pretty cheap though!

 

[janczmok]

Question @Gustav which brand of Potentiometers do you choose on your design ? And which silbalco knobs on the larger ones ?
(as i use the same frontpanel design as yours);

Especially for Threshold, Gain (i assume it's 2x50klin) , Blend(stereo 10klin) and Color Trim (stereo 10klog)?
Do you use alphas ? (i ordered now those, will see if they fit, otherwise a bit of dremeling and drilling)

 

[Gustav]

Question @Gustav which brand of Potentiometers do you choose on your design ? And which silbalco knobs on the larger ones ?
(as i use the same frontpanel design as yours);

Especially for Threshold, Gain (i assume it's 2x50klin) , Blend(stereo 10klin) and Color Trim (stereo 10klog)?
Do you use alphas ? (i ordered now those, will see if they fit, otherwise a bit of dremeling and drilling)

Yeah, I see I never mentioned those.

For the gain, 10K lin.
For the threshold, 10K lin
For the blend, 2 x 10K lin (to have 50/50 centered at least).
For the Colour trim - 2x10K log (We do care about the feel of the throw, but lin will work just fine)

I did not specify them in the BOM, and the ones I use a custom made for other stuff I build. You can use OMEGs, which are available at Reichelt, or you can use Alphas, which are available at Banzai Music.

You can even find switched versions, so for example.

For the blend, I prefer to be able to switch it out of circuit to bypass that whole mixer all together, but some wont care, so instead of adding the switching relay I set up for it, theyll jump the connections where theres a space for the relay. If you want to switch it, it takes up a pot and a switch of real estate, but if you use a pot with a switch, you can set it for bypass on the off setting, then click it on and adjust.

Same goes for the trim on the colour module.

All will have different shaft and mounting diameters, and you need to take that into account when ordering knobs (mounting diamater).

So yeah - I thought it would be lame to cement those decisions via BOM.

Gustav

 

[janczmok]

Thanks. Parts ordered. BTW, Somebody was asking about how design looks:


Those are moog style knobs and some pointer knobs. Also ordered 20mm ones, but i really like the knobs for threshhold.

 

[Andado]

Thanks. Parts ordered. BTW, Somebody was asking about how design looks:
View attachment 143245View attachment 143246View attachment 143247

Those are moog style knobs and some pointer knobs. Also ordered 20mm ones, but i really like the knobs for threshhold.

Looking good!! Nice I was thinking about chicken head knobs to. Thanks for sharing

 

[janczmok]

@Gustav: Is there an error in the BOM for SC HP Filter ? I see 2 x 330n in the Reichelt List and BOM, but on the PCB and the schemas i only see C115 as 330nf. Please advise.

 

[Gustav]

@Gustav: Is there an error in the BOM for SC HP Filter ? I see 2 x 330n in the Reichelt List and BOM, but on the PCB and the schemas i only see C115 as 330nf. Please advise.

SC filter is L/R, so they should mirror each other - check what the 330nF you see on the silk screen corresponds to on the other channel, and place a 330nF there (instead of the mislabeled 220nF).

Gustav

 

[janczmok]

Actually the PCB Partition is "SIDE CHAIN HP SWITCH" - there are no L/R parts

 

[Gustav]

Actually the PCB Partition is "SIDE CHAIN HP SWITCH" - there are no L/R parts

It is not split into separate L/R boxes, but it is contained in a box, and it is L/R - hence, there is symmetry.

Find the 330nF in the box - look for symmetry.

Gustav

 

[janczmok]

It is not split into separate L/R boxes, but it is contained in a box, and it is L/R - hence, there is symmetry.

Find the 330nF in the box - look for symmetry.

Gustav

Found it. 33K resistor & 220nf on one side, 33K & 330nf on other side, so what's the correct then ?