thanks. Yeah probably a good and economical thing to do
GssL 20th Anniversary edition
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chrispbass
Well-known member
Is it big difference between Input 1206 vs 5534
thanks. Yeah probably a good and economical thing to do
Definitely as it may require a bit of fine tuning and you’ll be peeved if you don’t!!
Just a recommendation: create the unit first, install all parts to PCB, measure everything before you order a rack and design and order a nice frontplate. I plan to buy a cheap but solid piece of plastic or plexi in the local DIY store (preferably ESD safe material), cut it to actual size, print the frontplate design and stick it onto it (simple paper), drill/cut holes accordingly, and check if it could work well. Then I'll know if I still need some modification in knob placement, or in the scales, plus I will know exacty wht knobs I can go for. Again, this is just my 2 cents, but I think it is worth the effort and that 14 EUR it may cost. Better than cry over a nice alu frontplate that is poorly designed by me, mothing fit in a nice way to actual dimensions, cost much more (especially if useless) and I should live with it. Plus that 4mm plexi can be used multiple times for other things too... until it looks like a cheesegrater. Alternative option can be free if you have some cardboard around, or even a piece of plywood.
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I will 3d print my front plate as soon as i have all the parts for it.
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Good suggestions! I've done a lot of front panel prototyping on foamboard . Very easy to work with for getting a general sense of layout , although not the most accurate. Pretty cheap though!
janczmok
Well-known member
Question @Gustav which brand of Potentiometers do you choose on your design ? And which silbalco knobs on the larger ones ?
(as i use the same frontpanel design as yours);
Especially for Threshold, Gain (i assume it's 2x50klin) , Blend(stereo 10klin) and Color Trim (stereo 10klog)?
Do you use alphas ? (i ordered now those, will see if they fit, otherwise a bit of dremeling and drilling)
(as i use the same frontpanel design as yours);
Especially for Threshold, Gain (i assume it's 2x50klin) , Blend(stereo 10klin) and Color Trim (stereo 10klog)?
Do you use alphas ? (i ordered now those, will see if they fit, otherwise a bit of dremeling and drilling)
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Yeah, I see I never mentioned those.
For the gain, 10K lin.
For the threshold, 10K lin
For the blend, 2 x 10K lin (to have 50/50 centered at least).
For the Colour trim - 2x10K log (We do care about the feel of the throw, but lin will work just fine)
I did not specify them in the BOM, and the ones I use a custom made for other stuff I build. You can use OMEGs, which are available at Reichelt, or you can use Alphas, which are available at Banzai Music.
You can even find switched versions, so for example.
For the blend, I prefer to be able to switch it out of circuit to bypass that whole mixer all together, but some wont care, so instead of adding the switching relay I set up for it, theyll jump the connections where theres a space for the relay. If you want to switch it, it takes up a pot and a switch of real estate, but if you use a pot with a switch, you can set it for bypass on the off setting, then click it on and adjust.
Same goes for the trim on the colour module.
All will have different shaft and mounting diameters, and you need to take that into account when ordering knobs (mounting diamater).
So yeah - I thought it would be lame to cement those decisions via BOM.
Gustav
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janczmok
Well-known member
Thanks. Parts ordered. BTW, Somebody was asking about how design looks:
Those are moog style knobs and some pointer knobs. Also ordered 20mm ones, but i really like the knobs for threshhold.
Those are moog style knobs and some pointer knobs. Also ordered 20mm ones, but i really like the knobs for threshhold.
Looking good!! Nice I was thinking about chicken head knobs to. Thanks for sharing
janczmok
Well-known member
SC filter is L/R, so they should mirror each other - check what the 330nF you see on the silk screen corresponds to on the other channel, and place a 330nF there (instead of the mislabeled 220nF).
Gustav
janczmok
Well-known member
Actually the PCB Partition is "SIDE CHAIN HP SWITCH" - there are no L/R parts
It is not split into separate L/R boxes, but it is contained in a box, and it is L/R - hence, there is symmetry.
Find the 330nF in the box - look for symmetry.
Gustav
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janczmok
Well-known member
Found it. 33K resistor & 220nf on one side, 33K & 330nf on other side, so what's the correct then ?
EDIT: Although I based that assumption on Gustav's earlier post, 330nF in that spot appears to give a filter cutoff frequency of 14 Hz, where 220nF is more like 22 Hz, so perhaps 220 is the more useful value?
See post #238 below
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janczmok
Well-known member
Errors in the BOM for "Release": It's not 2 x 1M2, just one. But two 2 x 750K instead of 1
Error in the BOM for "Ratio":4 x 3M9 not 6x. Also maybe 2 x 3M3 (which are not in BOM)
Error in the BOM for "Side Chain HPF": missing 2 x 1nf (but in orderlist from reichelt)
Unclear: Label ATT = 0,0R ? If yes, only 1 x 0,0R in Sidechain
Error in Reichelt Part Order:
2x1M4 in Ratio missing
Error in the BOM for "Ratio":4 x 3M9 not 6x. Also maybe 2 x 3M3 (which are not in BOM)
Error in the BOM for "Side Chain HPF": missing 2 x 1nf (but in orderlist from reichelt)
Unclear: Label ATT = 0,0R ? If yes, only 1 x 0,0R in Sidechain
Error in Reichelt Part Order:
2x1M4 in Ratio missing
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Corrected BOM and Reichelt cart "release" - 1 x 1M2, + 1 x 750K
Corrected BOM and Reichelt cart "Ratio" - 2x 3M9, +2 x 3M3
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Its a section of the tilt filter, and while I bet you would never notice a real difference in use, and I never checked the values on Markus' implementation of it, I am sure 330nF is what he originally had there.
https://groupdiy.com/threads/gssl-add-on-help-thread.65232/page-20#post-1147935
Gustav
I was foolish and didn't look at the schematic before I spoke, and simply calculated the frequency point for those values as an RC filter. I see how it actually works now. I'm going to strike through my earlier post so as not to cause confusion for others.
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