GssL 20th Anniversary edition

[janczmok]

Don't be confused. I'll explain:
- BOMs and Reichelt Part Lists should be updated by now.
- the referenced Corrections "Rev 3 needs following..." need to be applied. It's in the blend Circuit as outlined, and the wrong part is in Side chain HP switch.
Let me know if i can assist you..

 

[Gustav]

I'm still a bit confused about the errata

The errate under this header is not relevant to the rev 3 board.

Errata to make the test run board perfect

Its just left there to the handful of people who are building the test board...

...and none of it will make a difference between a unit just blowing up or not. If it did, it wouldve been posted in bold and repeated 20 times.

Gustav

 

[inf0]

@Gustav Are you aware of any other switches that could directly work on the switch pcbs? I was thinking of maybe using some grayhills and wire them.

There is something about the feel of the lorlins that I really don't enjoy

 

[Gustav]

@Gustav Are you aware of any other switches that could directly work on the switch pcbs?

Sorry, I dont know of a switch that shares the exact footprint.

I also happen to think the Lorlins are great for most applications - including this one Of course, you can wire up anything you like, how you like, which is the great thing about DIY.


Gustav

 

[Andado]

So this will do it for Threshold, Gain, Blend, Colour trim?

 

[janczmok]

Speaking of Wiring:
As i am using NRG illuminated Push Switch (like SSL Solid State Logic) - i found need 560 Ohm for the LED switch. There is no dedicated LED Resistor (or connector) somewhere on the PCB, correct ? Guess i can wire it to Pos12V and Resistor on the PCB.

Is there a definitive wiring guide ? As i see the pads like "Bypass in" (just as an example) and the associated X101-4 ( i assume )
If not i can try to start with one and get corrected when i am wrong ?!?

I started here:
Excel (2nd Sheet for Wiring) - please do see it as a discussion point - NOTHING VERIFIED yet - Out of that i will provide wiring diagram
Excel ist editable if you want to fix things.

 

[inf0]

Speaking of Wiring:
As i am using NRG illuminated Push Switch (like SSL Solid State Logic) - i found need 560 Ohm for the LED switch. There is no dedicated LED Resistor (or connector) somewhere on the PCB, correct ? Guess i can wire it to Pos12V and Resistor on the PCB.

Is there a definitive wiring guide ? As i see the pads like "Bypass in" (just as an example) and the associated X101-4 ( i assume )
If not i can try to start with one and get corrected when i am wrong ?!?

I started here:
Excel (2nd Sheet for Wiring) - please do see it as a discussion point - NOTHING VERIFIED yet - Out of that i will provide wiring diagram
Excel ist editable if you want to fix things.

That would be extremely helpful ! I've been reading a lot through the various threads and guides out there and I'm trying to figure it out myself as well

 

[Gustav]

So this will do it for Threshold, Gain, Blend, Colour trim?

Yes, that should do it.

 

[Andado]

Yes, that should do it.

Thanks Gustav

 

[Gustav]

Speaking of Wiring:
As i am using NRG illuminated Push Switch (like SSL Solid State Logic) - i found need 560 Ohm for the LED switch. There is no dedicated LED Resistor (or connector) somewhere on the PCB, correct ? Guess i can wire it to Pos12V and Resistor on the PCB.

Is there a definitive wiring guide ? As i see the pads like "Bypass in" (just as an example) and the associated X101-4 ( i assume )
If not i can try to start with one and get corrected when i am wrong ?!?

I started here:
Excel (2nd Sheet for Wiring) - please do see it as a discussion point - NOTHING VERIFIED yet - Out of that i will provide wiring diagram
Excel ist editable if you want to fix things.

See attached for example of the connector relative to relays.

pin 1 carries 12V
pin 2 goes to relay switching
pin 3 bridges return voltage to relay switching over a drop resistor (handy for an LED)
pin 4 is connector to GND (also handy for an LED)

So in essense, you wire the switch so contact is made between 1 and 2 when you want to activate the relay
If you wire pin 3 to + and 4 to GND on a LED on your switch, if will light up when you make contact between pin 1 and 2.

You can also use this set-up for a toggle, wiring 1-2 to the toggle, 3-4 to the separate LED, or you can omit the LED and just use pin 1 and 2 to make the contact on a switch.

Varying the resistance within reasonable amounts will vary the LED intensity. 560 ohm seems awefully low. I would try with the 3K in place first, then adjust to taste.

Gustav

 

[janczmok]

Mine from Frontpanel shows this diagram: - i'll give it a try tomorrow or saturday once i drilled the holes for the pcb mouting ...

 

[janczmok]

Varying the resistance within reasonable amounts will vary the LED intensity. 560 ohm seems awefully low. I would try with the 3K in place first, then adjust to taste.

Gustav

So to my understanding, the 3 x 3K in the "Switching" Sections are effectively the LED Resistors, correct ? If we had a PCB with the Names instead of values it might be easier for somebody to understand.

 

[Andado]

Regulator question. Should they lay flat to the PCB or is it ok the way I did? In my world they will be cooler that way?

 

[JMan]

I would lay them flat and affix them to the PCB, personally. The reason for that practice is that it allows the PCB to act as a heatsink, dissipating some of the heat and thus keeping the regulators cooler (since there isn't really enough room to put an individual heatsink on each regulator here). The way you have them set up is actually less effective for that purpose, though I understand how it might seem intuitive. It might be fine of course, not every regulator in every circuit needs additional heat dissipation, but that will depend on how much work the regulator is doing. But even if it isn't absolutely necessary, it's probably a good general practice to add a heatsink (in this case, affixing the regulator to the PCB) when you have the ability to do so.

 

[Andado]

I would lay them flat and affix them to the PCB, personally. The reason for that practice is that it allows the PCB to act as a heatsink, dissipating some of the heat and thus keeping the regulators cooler (since there isn't really enough room to put an individual heatsink on each regulator here). The way you have them set up is actually less effective for that purpose, though I understand how it might seem intuitive. It might be fine of course, not every regulator in every circuit needs additional heat dissipation, but that will depend on how much work the regulator is doing. But even if it isn't absolutely necessary, it's probably a good general practice to add a heatsink (in this case, affixing the regulator to the PCB) when you have the ability to do so.

Okey thanks I will do that then

 

[Gustav]

Regulator question. Should they lay flat to the PCB or is it ok the way I did? In my world they will be cooler that way?

The PCB is a very inefficient heatsink, and we are not stressing them here, but for mechanical reasons, its nice to fasten them to the PCB with an M3 bolt and nut

Gustav

 

[Andado]

The PCB is a very inefficient heatsink, and we are not stressing them here, but for mechanical reasons, its nice to fasten them to the PCB with an M3 bolt and nut

Gustav

And looks better to

 

[sr1200]

I would lay them flat and affix them to the PCB, personally. The reason for that practice is that it allows the PCB to act as a heatsink, dissipating some of the heat and thus keeping the regulators cooler (since there isn't really enough room to put an individual heatsink on each regulator here). The way you have them set up is actually less effective for that purpose, though I understand how it might seem intuitive. It might be fine of course, not every regulator in every circuit needs additional heat dissipation, but that will depend on how much work the regulator is doing. But even if it isn't absolutely necessary, it's probably a good general practice to add a heatsink (in this case, affixing the regulator to the PCB) when you have the ability to do so.

can something like this be used?
https://www.jlmaudio.com/shop/trex2-heatsink.html?display_tax_prices=1

 

[Gustav]

can something like this be used?
https://www.jlmaudio.com/shop/trex2-heatsink.html?display_tax_prices=1

Dont bother with it, see previous post.

Gustav

 

[JMan]

To echo Gustav, I doubt there's much need to go out of your way to add heatsinks (also you won't have space for big extruded ones like the one you linked). In this design I'm quite sure that the PCB (although it may not be the most effective heatsink) is plenty sufficient, and even that might be unnecessary - though harmless. I think my point was, it's there so you might as well.