The Expat Audio board?I have a little doubt about the THAT2181C I put on turbo pcb which have no indicator for the pin 1 so maybe it's inversed ...
The Expat Audio board?I have a little doubt about the THAT2181C I put on turbo pcb which have no indicator for the pin 1 so maybe it's inversed ...
5K1 bias current setting resistors for the +/-15VDC powered audio-VCAs are correct. 3K9 for the +/-12VDC powered sidechain-VCA(s) needed.Brilliant Harpo ! , does it mean that last version of main GSSL board is not matching with the turbo board ? I have effectively 5k1 on GSSL and 3.9k on turbo ... is only the R of the sidechain VCA concerned or also the other 2 VCA of the channels on GSSL board ? (5.1k for both all VCA on the GSSL ... )
thanks for the information and search terms. i think i'm on the right way now. only use the google translator if I don't understand individual terms or contexts, otherwise it works without it. Before I try to measure the voltage, however, I have one more general question: It is about the connection "Point C" from the turbo board to the gssl main board. Does it matter whether the connection "point C" is connected to the gssl main board or to the control board (front panel)? the power connector section of the turbo board shouldn't really matter whether it's connected to the main or control board, right? Or should the connections mentioned only be connected to the main circuit board, as described in the instructions for the turboboard?The main board and the control board are connected via a molex connectors.Search GSSL help thread(!) for "needle" "drop", maybe also "47u" and "6u8" capacitor orientation, as well as "latch" or "latching".
I have a feeling you might want to use Google website translator to read the threads in German.
To eliminate the chance of introducing wrong connections, I'd simply wire and solder everything exactly as described in the well-written Turbo "Assembly and Installation Instructions". It creates stable connections that keep wires as short as possible and corresponding circuit parts as close to one another as possible.Or should the connections mentioned only be connected to the main circuit board
Both boards, i.e. main and turbo, show a value of plus / minus 12 V, so everything is ok.So maybe check that your ±12V power supplies are holding up. Check pins 4 & 11 of the TL074 on the Turbo board for Vcc & Vss.
It could of course be a short. if there is a short, it should be on the turbo board because the compressor works perfectly without mods, right? Or is my reasoning wrong?If it still goes hard right that looks like mis-wiring or a short somewhere.
Both boards have a value of 0.001 V, so everything is correct, but I use 2180 B VCA's, which shouldn't play a role in this case.Check that the side chain input is connected up OK (audio in on one channel with 0 DC offset) arriving at pin 1 of the 2181. Your main board should only have the other channel feeding in for permanent turbo. Check the input levels are similar on pin 1 of the equivalent 2181 on the main board.
- Main: 0,340 VCheck pin 7 of the TL074 has little or no DC offset and that it passes audio OK (could be attenuated depending on the control voltage) Compare it to pin 7 of the TL074 on the main board
That's exactly what I can see on both boards. if it is not compressed it is 0.07 V and a little higher with compression. However, I only get negative values when I hold the red measuring tip to the ground and the black to the pin. Normally the black measuring tip should be used for measurements on the ground, right? I'm a bit confused now, because it could also be the mistake, right?Check the control voltage on pin 3 of the 2181. It should be very near 0V and only go slightly negative (very few mV) when compressing. Compare it to pin 3 of the 2181 on the main board.
This was soldered exactly as described in the instructions for the turbo board. Do not think that this is the fault.Check the wiring of your ratio switch..... remember this has to be electrically isolated from the original ratio switching (using a different pole on the same 4x3 switch is OK)
I understood that The original board schematic has the 6u8 in parallel with the 750K and the .47U in parallel with the 91K. Whereas the redrawn schematic (Gyraf) has them the other way around. Should I swap these now because I soldered them as described in the schematic by gyraf ???? I'm confused because I don't think that Gyraf was wrong, because it works for others too, or does the turbo modification play a role here?Search gssl help thread for maybe also"47u""u47" and "6u8" capacitor orientation
If I understand correctly, the latching problem often occurs when the voltage regulator (7815) has problems with the output (mostly too low voltage). I measure 22 volts at the input of the voltage regulator and 15 volts at the output, so everything is good, as far as I can judge.Search gssl help thread as well as "latch" or "latching".
Double check for steady +/-12VDC again with makeup-gain in both CW and CCW settings in order to exclude a wrong hooked up bypass switch.Both boards, i.e. main and turbo, show a value of plus / minus 12 V, so everything is ok.
Check that the side chain input is connected up OK (audio in on one channel with 0 DC offset) arriving at pin 1 of the 2181. Your main board should only have the other channel feeding in for permanent turbo. Check the input levels are similar on pin 1 of the equivalent 2181 on the main board.
Both boards have a value of 0.001 V, so everything is correct, but I use 2180 B VCA's, which shouldn't play a role in this case.
Black wire probe connects to the multimeters COM-port with probe tip pointing to reference voltage of the tested device, most often 0V.... However, I only get negative values when I hold the red measuring tip to the ground and the black to the pin. Normally the black measuring tip should be used for measurements on the ground, right? I'm a bit confused now, because it could also be the mistake, right?
The THAT218x VCAs come with a 6mV/dB control law, so little differences might matter.Since the difference are in the mV range, I don't know now whether that is still ok or not.
Did you also measure the diodes on the Turbo board? No need to desolder them. Can do in place. -- This should reveal a dead diode. Do the same with all diodes on the main board.It could of course be a short. if there is a short, it should be on the turbo board because the compressor works perfectly without mods, right? Or is my reasoning wrong?
I'd say your readings at 4:1 look somewhat off. I'd check the voltages of all ratios (with threshold CW and CCW) and check the diode in the ratio network in particular.Since the difference are in the mV range, I don't know now whether that is still ok or not.
The release timing caps. The position shouldn't make your needle jump. I'd check for orientation of the caps. Those tantalums have a plus and minus, but at least on older boards the silkscreen was hard to read (as are the plus signs on those caps).Should I swap these now because I soldered them as described in
Yes I just soldered on the existing 100 R without pull it.Check 100R on main board. For Turbo installation, the 100R does not lift one leg off the board (unlike the 47K).
It's the reverse here ... I have 1.678V between 7 and 8 and 0V between 1 and 2 ... in total bypass and I have none for both 1/2 and 7/8 in turbo.Pull THAT on Turbo board. Could measure with multimeter set to 'Diode'. Between pins one and two (Input and Ec+) you should get a reading. Between pins 7 and 8 (V+ and Output) you should get none.
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