GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

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rvandeven said:
I'm operating on 230v just like you.
Sometimes it's 230VAC. Can be anything in range between 207...253VAC in western europe.
A standard lorlin type switch, as shown for the bypass or ratio switch, will NOT work safe for AC mains. You'll need more than 150mA switching current capability.
A cheap mains rotary switch with similar shape (but 45° indexing) might be something like this.
 
If i want to use a EAO style illuminated push button for POWER should i use a SPDT or a DPDT?

I plan on using Igor relays for bypassing, do i need a SPDT or DPDT EAO style illuminated push button for bypass?

SOLVED:
should be a SPDT for both, I'm starting to get the hang of it.
As far as I can tell I can power the led of the POWER push button from the board with the rotary controls and the bypass led from the relay board

Using the relays board means just connecting a jumper between com and on on the control board with the rotaries so it is always on right?


 

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Hi,
Having problems with my (almost completed unit), and can't really find the time to fix it (taking care of my two year old son when not working).
Is there anyone in Sweden (preferably around the Gothenburg area) that can take a look at it?
We'll sort something out when it comes to compensation for your time and effort.

Mail me at Daniel dot Muhr at hotmail dot com. PM not really working on iPhone for me :-(

Thanx!

Regards
//Daniel
 
OK, still troubleshooting a friend's comp .....
Already foung 2 shorts
Now I get signal to the sidechain VCA
in fact I get signal to the Input when the VCA is not connected.
as soon as I connect the VCA, no more signal at the input !?!

any idea ?
what should the voltage on the VCA be ?

thanks guys :)
 
Hi guys,

I'm trying to find the right switch for GSSL bypass. I'd like an illuminated pushbutton as on the original SSL.

GSSL project states for a DPDT switch. I am very confused about switch characteristics, so please correct me if i'm wrong.

- Switching action: Maintained (any way to use a momentary switch instead? relays maybe?)

- Light voltage: 12VDC, this is what GSSL uses (if I'd use a switch rated for more voltage, would it light up anyway? maybe less bright?)

- Number and contacts type:  I'm kinda confused on this. I obviously need two poles for the switching, but do I need a third pole for the light? Or usually is the light switching integrated into the switch? 
And important, what's the difference between normally open and normally closed, and what should I choose for this application?

Any comment is highly appreciated. Even better if you can give me a part number or so from the usual suppliers.

Thanks in advance


 
beatnik said:
Hi guys,

I'm trying to find the right switch for GSSL bypass. I'd like an illuminated pushbutton as on the original SSL.

GSSL project states for a DPDT switch. I am very confused about switch characteristics, so please correct me if i'm wrong.

- Switching action: Maintained (any way to use a momentary switch instead? relays maybe?)

- Light voltage: 12VDC, this is what GSSL uses (if I'd use a switch rated for more voltage, would it light up anyway? maybe less bright?)

- Number and contacts type:  I'm kinda confused on this. I obviously need two poles for the switching, but do I need a third pole for the light? Or usually is the light switching integrated into the switch? 
And important, what's the difference between normally open and normally closed, and what should I choose for this application?

Any comment is highly appreciated. Even better if you can give me a part number or so from the usual suppliers.

Thanks in advance
hello! i hope this helps

Mouser N.º: 633-HB16CKW01-5F-JB

Fabricante N.º: HB16CKW01-5F-JB
Fabricante: NKK Switches
Desc.: Interruptores con pulsador SPDT ON-ON ROUND GRN LED/CLR-WHT CAP
RoHS: En conformidad con la RoHS por exención

i used that one.. i added a super sidechain board to my compressor and with that u can use this switch (plus some nice features in that board too!) if not you would need yeah a relay and some place to take the voltage for it and the LED.
 
Hi ptron, that helped a lot! NKK seems a good alternative to the EAOs. And way cheaper!

I think I'll go for a KB series one, as my panels are already drilled to 13mm diameter.

I am still confused about operating voltages and normally open vs normally closed contacts. Please can somebody explain?

Anyway, I'm thinking about buying these ones for GSSL bypass, can anybody confirm if they are OK?

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/KB26SKW01-5D-JD/360-2018-ND/1007075

I am confused by the "associated items" field. Is everything included or do I have to buy led, socket, etc separately?

Thanks
 
Hi, I'm new here... Got some questions regarding the GSSL and the modding that's been done. I'm from the Netherlands, so please forgive me if I use strange words. I don't mean to offend anyone;)
Don't know if this is the right topic to post to, but I am in need of a little help and the subject is a SSL-clone..

I recently built a weird looking GSSL.
422266_2419104776261_1810660166_1473175_289329956_n.jpg

(yeah the GR-metering on the pic is inverted, it's corrected now) The little red thingy at the right is a simple OTA-based
guitar compressor. That, along with servicing guitar-related equipment is what I'm normally into.

I had 85% of the GSSL parts (including the enormous VU-meter) lying around and as a live sound-engineer, I often lacked a nice compressor to insert to the subgroubs I routed my drumchannels to. Anyway, I love almost everything it does live and in the studio, so it's time for an
upgrade ;) This one was build cheap and small, with the onboard 5VA transformer, simple single THAT2180 replacement for the
202's and all. For inputcaps I even used 3u3 mks/wima's, with no lack of bass in my application. All to get to know the
circuit a bit. It was a lot more quiet than I thought and turned out very useful.

Now, I've been lurking around this forum a while, because I needed some info on possible upgrades.

The input/output section on the gyraf board is overcrowded indeed, (as Jacob admits) so I decided to redraw the board. I'm
halfway by now.
I'd love to implement some of Keiths ultimate mods. Here are some questions regarding the mods.


1. Audiopath: I plan on running the audio path balanced, but only through 4 2180 VCA's (2 left, 2 right)
What I imagine is a simple 22k Zin inverting buffer in front (NE5534) followed by 22uF, driving the sidechain VCA (though
47k) and the main VCA (through 27k).
I do this for both the hot/in phase and the cold/inverted signal. I guess I should only connect the 47k going to the SC to
the hot path. Am I right? Should I tweak the (47k) value?

2. After the 2180, I use the inverting current to voltage converter as in the Gyraf schematic/THAT datasheet, (NE5534 w 15k feedback R) and send to corresponding output pin on xlr via 100r/100u+100n and 47k to GND.
Do you see any problems in this approach?

3. Sidechain: Let's leave out the HPF and other mods for now. But use what you guys seem to call the 'turbo-mod'.
This is what I imagine to work, and what I learned from Keiths ultimate GSSL notes.
Let's say left channel. You take the hot/in phase signal and send it via 47k to SC IN L.
I have to copy the entire part between the SC IN and point C. (including ratio Sw)
I recombine the rectified signals at point C by connecting the diodes cathodes together. (okay?)
From there through attack and release. At point 'D' I get a bit confused. As I first drew one sidechain, the last part (pin 8,9,10) of the TL074 ended up in parallel. So I kept 1 3M3 resistor to GND and send point D to both + inputs
simultaniously. Is this a problem or just overengineering?

4. I plan to use only one TL072 for both the main- and SC-VCA's Control voltages... So I mixed both TL074 outputs into the - inputs of the 072. Each output via 127k for the main VCA part and 100k for the SC VCA part. Something tells me this will
give twice the gain from the 072, something else tells me it's a simple inverting mixer stage, so twice the same input
gives me only once the output times gain. AAArgh what to listnen to?
I send only one output via trim to meter.

This is quite a bit longer than I first intended, hope it doesn't bother you to much and that you might help me out.
Thanks for reading!
Grtz,

Matthijs






 
Just wondering which resistor I should go with for the 8027-B 1mA Meter from Hairball, should this be 2k just as the behringer or 3k3? I saw a couple of people used it over the past.
 
quick question:
if I exchange the meter resistor with a trimpot, what to do with the 3rd leg?

thanks
 
mrcase said:
if I exchange the meter resistor with a trimpot, what to do with the 3rd leg?
Looking at the GSSL schematic should make it obvious. (Varying resistor value between an outer- and the center leg of your trimmer. Joining the 3rd leg with the trimmers center leg might help better sleep, but is not neccessary in this part of circuit.) You don't want to overload the trimmers/rheostats driving stage, so make sure, the initial 4K7 or 5K rheostat setting is about centered.
 
Hi All ,
          have a new member that is local that built a GSSL with the " Black Cans "  and has asked me for help on first fire up and possible trouble shooting.  I have that list of voltage readings with and without ICs and VCAs , but was curious on if I should De-Solder and remove the " Black Cans " first , and if anyone has any sugestions , also , if anyone can comment on components to leave out of change or add because of these " Black Cans" 

  Thanks ,  any and all help very much appreciated  ;)
 
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