Headphone amp -- Oscillations fixed!

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riggler

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
1,076
Location
Pennsylvania, USA
Hi all,

My first project to contribute. This is a headphone amp based off of Jan Meier's DIY headphone amplifier shown here:
http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/

HeadAmp.jpg


I've added balanced inputs since I want to use it with my recording rig, and may need to be driven from long distances. I'm building it on perfboard for now. Jan's design includes a crossfeed filter, which is switchable via a rotary switch. This lets you approximate what your source may sound like over speakers; something helpful to me doing classical recording when placing stereo pairs, etc.

I'm building this into a 1U rack enclosure. Any criticisms welcome! The design runs in class A operation and is compatible with low-impedance headphones as well as high-impedance headphones.

It took a while, but I got all parts available from just Mouser, Digikey, and Par-Metal.
Parts list:
PhoneAmp.xls

Riggler
 
In the PSU section you have 2200uF on the output side of the regulator and no protection diodes. You probably don't need more than 470uF on teh regulator output and add the protection diodes to prevent the reverse current (that occurs at switch off) from destroying the regulator.

The buf634 is a video amplifier with a 30MHz minimum bandwidth. Why do you think you need this for a headphone amp?

How does this design "run in class A operation"? It's a bipolar output with a slight -ve DC bias offset. BTW, you will need to add DC decoupling caps between stages or the DC bias will end up on your output, which is not so good for the headphones.
 
The caps after the regulator are oversized. You're right; could get away with smaller ones as Jan documents on his project page. Would IN4007 or 4004 work as protection diodes as you suggest?

I assume it would go like this:

LM7815: Cathode to pin 1 (input), anode to pin 3(output)
LM7915: Cathode to pin 3 (output), anode to pin 1(input)

...because of the polarity difference, right?

(Yes, I'm STILL a learning newbie here).

Now I thought this amp is class A because all instances of LM6171 are biased -15VDC. Thereby they are constantly drawing current and our entire signal is "floating" on this current. (We never swing to 0V) I think I am not understanding this right.

According to Jan, this is DC-coupled design, so I would assume that means we would NOT use decoupling caps. Again, I may not understand this right. Are you saying to put decoupling caps before the 1k resistors, or before the buffer amp -- before the 100R resistors? Maybe I misunderstand, but I thought the buffer amp would negate the DC. The buffer amp does let the rest of the circuit "not see" the headphone load, right?

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
 
riggler said:
The caps after the regulator are oversized. You're right; could get away with smaller ones as Jan documents on his project page. Would IN4007 or 4004 work as protection diodes as you suggest?

I assume it would go like this:

LM7815: Cathode to pin 1 (input), anode to pin 3(output)
LM7915: Cathode to pin 3 (output), anode to pin 1(input)

...because of the polarity difference, right?

Yes, that's right. When the input supply collapses faster than the output of the regulators then the reverse current should flow through the diodes rather than the regulators.

riggler said:
Now I thought this amp is class A because all instances of LM6171 are biased -15VDC. Thereby they are constantly drawing current and our entire signal is "floating" on this current. (We never swing to 0V) I think I am not understanding this right.

This is something like what Rupert Neve does to mask crossover distortion, which is the nastiest sounding of all the distortions. Normally the crossover distortion occurs when the signal is very small, so it is quite noticeable. However if the op amp is biased slightly (either way, it does not matter) then the output signal amplitude is larger when the crossover occurs, so the distortion is less noticeable.

However the output stage of the op amp is still class AB and will still crossover given enough signal. If you bias the input too high then the signal will clip earlier on the biased side (eg -ve excursion clipping will occur earlier in this design).

riggler said:
According to Jan, this is DC-coupled design, so I would assume that means we would NOT use decoupling caps. Again, I may not understand this right. Are you saying to put decoupling caps before the 1k resistors, or before the buffer amp -- before the 100R resistors? Maybe I misunderstand, but I thought the buffer amp would negate the DC. The buffer amp does let the rest of the circuit "not see" the headphone load, right?

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

Except that you've biased the inputs, so the outputs will also be at a DC potential above or below 0V. The blocking or decoupling capacitors will re-centre the AC waveform around 0V, rather than leaving a DC offset on it.
 
Ah, so we don't have --- for lack of better terms --- the voltage bandwidth to allow for full swing all on one side. I get it. Thanks for that!

So where in the circuit should I put those caps, I'd think right AFTER the buffer amp after having this conversation. (Right before the phones) This cap should be of good quality, no? But you had said earlier to do this "between the stages"...
 
This page http://www.wisc-online.com/objects/index_tj.asp?objID=SSE1602 really helped me out in understanding this.

Now my question is -- do I really need coupling capacitors in between the 6171 stages, or do I just need them right before I hit the phones?

Seems to me without them between the 6171's, by the time we're at the output of the second stage the signal will be heavily polarized to one side. Now is that intentional to reduce noise by staying away from the crossover point? Will it put the second 6171 into distortion on loud signals? The cap would re-center the waveform.
 
So the amp is built and works. However, at the lowest volume setting there is awful hissy, unstable (almost breaking-up pulsating) distortion at a moderate volume level. (Even with no input plugged in). As I bring the gain pot up, this noise becomes more consistent and even. Then, at about 25% of the way up, the noise just kind of 'pops' away and disappears. From that point up the amp is dead quiet and works. One side is a little louder than the other. Gotta track that down.

Any ideas to the noise issue? I'm going to go over the circuit (again) and look for any shorts, etc. I seem to think there is an open ground but can't find it. The PSU rails were pretty close in voltage (14.87) but I'll check them again too... Maybe that's the source of the volume inbalance.

DC offset for the left channel at output was 17mV, and right was -.09mV .

I wonder if it could be the distribution blocks and associated crimp connections that I used for +15 and -15. This is my first point-to-point. Maybe there was a better way of doing that...

Also the 15MOhm resistors I got from an old parts stashed and they measured between 14.5 and 14.9Mohm... Seemed normal to me but that could be part of the problem too I guess.

Thanks for any info or ideas! :)

IMG_0386.JPG
IMG_0387.JPG
IMG_0388.JPG

 
What you're descibing as noise is not "noise" per se but instability. I don't think you can attribute this behaviour to a component failure but rather to your layout. The later looks--pardon me--pretty messy to me and is not unlikely a source of considerable trouble. So first of all: did you made sure that there is sufficient decoupling at each opamp supply pin? The 220 nFs shown in the PSU schematic must be soldered right to the ICs, not close to the PSU.

Samuel
 
> buf634 is a video amplifier with a 30MHz minimum bandwidth. Why do you think you need this for a headphone amp?

It's got the current that low-Z headphones need. Pretty popular in this application.

I do wonder about this very-fine backend, then using the TL072 as front-end. I defend the '072 a lot. I have four in my can-amp. But I'm very old-school; also I don't expose them to FULL source voltage small or large. But that's not a Problem.

> there is awful hissy, unstable (almost breaking-up pulsating) distortion at a moderate volume level. (Even with no input plugged in). As I bring the gain pot up, this noise becomes more consistent and even. Then, at about 25% of the way up, the noise just kind of 'pops' away and disappears.

This is a bloomin' plumber's nightmare, a rat's-nest, invitation to oscillation. Apparently every signal runs past every point in the amp.
2rcmmxg.jpg


My amp has 5% that much wire, hardly any running over the board.
264nf36.jpg
 
Again, I "went to school"!

I will clean this up and post back guys. Thank you for taking the time to look at it and give your advice. I also had a friend tell me that all of the stranded hookup cable I am using is a no-no. So, I will redo this with solid cable in a much nicer fashion and post back.

I admit, after looking at the pictures, it looks like a hairball from h*** in there. All of the black and red wires you see carry +15VDC and -15VDC. Another bad thing I did was use the drain wire (which is in contact with the shield) as one of the conductors going to my switches and jacks. Seems I made an antenna there...

Well, thanks for all the good advice. Will get the 220nFs as close to the IC's as practical as well...

Riggler
 
> a friend tell me that all of the stranded hookup cable I am using is a no-no.

No, stranded is fine. OK, there's guys who swear upon solid silver with virgin teflon; but stranded WILL work. All mine are stranded, plain old Radio Shed hookup junk-wire.

> it looks like a hairball from h*** in there

Your words, not mine.

> the black and red wires you see carry +15VDC and -15VDC

Well, OK (as long as you observe Samuel's comment about a cap right AT each IC); but why do you need so many? Bus from one chip to the next.

> Seems I made an antenna there...

Figure that ALL wires are antennas.

Some transmit, some receive.

Actually they all do both.

But when big output signals sneak back into little-signal inputs, and are re-amplified, it will oscillate. And possibly at the chip's highest good frequency: 3MHz for '072, 10MHz for '634. You don't hear the oscillation. But an amplifier can't be slapping millions of times a second AND do audio well. Can be anything from a slight increase of IMD, to total no-work. Random crap (hiss) which changes with a GAIN control, and abruptly goes-away at some setting, is not uncommon.

"Power lines" are usually innocuous, IF they are bypassed so they can't send (or receive) garbage. But all your back and forth from jacks to amps to pots to amps and more amps and jacks.... this needs to be laid-out so all your antennas give poor transmission/reception to each other.

On my amp, the signal flows right to left. Input jacks lower right. Red, green, black wires run directly to the right-most chip. Green wires run to the gain control top-right. Both clumps stay as far away from the rest of the amp as possible.

Heatsinks in center is the OUTput stage. Red wires run more or less directly to the jacks. Brown wire is 24V AC 60Hz, stays far away from audio, especially the sensitive input circuits.

All the on-board traces follow the same concept: K.I.S.S., stay away from trouble.

As a Tutorial, I wish there was less slack, and that the one red wire didn't zig-zag toward the gain pot. (And that iron-burn in the insulation is a sorry example.)

Yes, it looks like a hasty sloppy hack, and it is. But the -only- trouble was the relatively slow 3055 transistors inside a tight NFB loop. (A good reason to buy a pre-made power solution like your '634.) No instability due to layout or wire routing, even though this has 10 times the gain of yours. And as I am shocked to note, it is old enough to vote.
 
Well,

I put a 220nF metal film cap across the +V and -V terminals of each IC. I cleaned up the many 15v leads and have one lead running around the board for each rail as best I can. I also found I was feeding one of the 15M resistors before a 6171 with +15VDC and not -15VDC.

Fixed that.

Fired it up and noticed my 634's were HOT!!! Found a short from when I added a coupling cap. Fixed that, both still hot, I can only touch them for 4 seconds.

Behavior is the same except the hiss component of the noise is gone. Now there is a hum. Sounds like a ground loop to me. BUT--- like before, once I turn the gain pot up 1/4 way all the noise 'pops' and goes away, even the hum. I wonder if I'm not providing enough current from the PSU... Should be fine. Voltage regs are cool and I measured ~14.85 volts on each rail.

The one thing I don't like is that the BUF634 datasheet says to use a resistor when feeding pin 1 (BW), we're feeding it -15VDC. Schematic doesn't call for one. Maybe they just run hot?

PRR,

I'm sure you hear this often, but you are the man. I used the TL071 because I've seen it in other debalancing circuits. Is there a better choice? I think I bit off a little more than I could chew with this amp, but hey, it does work!

What killed me laying this out was feeding the IC power rails. Without a nice PCB it's tough to keep things clean. How did you do the traces on your board? I should have gone the TO-220 package route for my IC's so I could heatsink them like yours. Although only my buffers are warm.... everything else is cool as a cucumber.

 
> my 634's were HOT!!! ... I can only touch them for 4 seconds.
> BUF634 datasheet says to use a resistor when feeding pin 1 (BW), we're feeding it -15VDC.


The datasheet page 2 shows two extreme connections. BW pin to V-, 15mA-20mA.

You have 29.7V and possibly 20mA, 600 milliWatts. I remember when a plastic DIP-8 was barely good for 300mW. It appears this PDIP is 100 deg C/W, so you are near 60 deg C rise. At 25 deg C ambient, 85 deg C, or 185 in Pennsylvania degrees. This will brown meat, scald skin, and touch-time may well be 4 seconds.

I like < 50 deg C rise but I'm old-fashioned. The '634 -is- safe at this heat.

I was gonna suggest wiring for lower bandwidth.... but that darn 6141 is also wide-band. Both are inside a NFB loop. One or the other must be slower.... if they are similar speeds, you have 2/3rds of a phase-shift oscillator and Murphy will find enough other "minor" phase-shifts to get a real ring going. Yes, I do think many people are using the TO-220.

In Meier's own words: "The LM6171 is a diva. If everything fits she sounds gorgeous but if you don't treat her well she will provide you with a lot of headaches. ... know exactly what you're doing. The LM6171 is very fast and therefore prone to oscillation..." (emphasis mine)

Compare your implementation with Meier's:
http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/bilder/img_0006small480.jpg

Yes, you can make perfboard almost as neat and compact as his PCB. Although I do suspect that the 6171 on perfboard will be very difficult to tame, may need Bob Pease's experience and intuition.

Look, I'm re-designing this thing, which isn't my job, and it's late.

> I cleaned up the many 15v leads

OK, what about signal?

What about ground-path? (No, I am NOT going to side-side scroll over-large fuzzy images to trace it out.)

> killed me laying this out was feeding the IC power rails

On perfboard: #24 solid insulated wire. When you get to a chip pin, peel 1/4" of insulation, wrap or hook the wire on the socket pin-stub, solder, and run on to the next chip. Between chips, keep your + and - wires together, perhaps twisted. Dot with hot-glue to keep from flapping. There's no reason to have more than one power-entry for this whole board. There's no reason to whine for PCBs.... my other HP amp is half perfboard and half P2P (HOT transistors and 10W resistors), I have a several-chip mike mixer on perfboard.

Notice I laid my '072s in a line. The power rails run down the middle, between the pins. That leaves the "outside" of the chips for the more complicated networks.

> Sounds like a ground loop to me

How can you tell, from "sound", if a hum is caused by a loop?

And there isn't any trick to grounding this, 'cuz it is largely differential. Your power supply common MUST go to headphone jack common: that's where the load current happens. Then to '634 rail-caps, the other side of that output current. Then you have the volume pot ground, the diff-amp 10K reference, and the 3K3 resistor reference: these should come together at one point (which is why my pot and input chip are just two inches apart). The XLR jack ground and 680pFd ground will probably go to case... these are NOT signal grounds, they are garbage grounds. And given the diff-input, I'd tie signal ground to case at the headphone jack (partly cuz those plastic jacks break, and my metal jacks force grounding).

> I was feeding one of the 15M resistors ...with +15VDC and not -15VDC.

FORGET those dang 15 meggers. I think they will do just as much "good" to plus, minus, or on your dog's collar... they do NOT make any big difference to anything. If they make a minuscule difference... well, you have bigger problems still. I'm not saying take them out... just forget them.

Shame you have only 2 Watts. There is a much simpler good-sounding (and cheap!) headphone amp, but for studio work it wants much more than 77mA.
 
I just noticed that the schematic is not particularly well drawn. The 3k3 resistors and especially the 47 pF caps must be connected to the LM6171 output (and not just to each other). Have you done this?

Samuel
 
Hi Samuel,

I did wire them together and also to the 6171 output. In fact, everywhere there is an intersection drawn, I have a solder joint. Do you see anything that should *not* be wired as depicted?

After going through your comments and PRR's comments I think -- regretfully -- that my best plan of attack might be to desolder the board and start over with a better layout. I want to re-emphasize that all audio paths are under the perfboard, lead to lead, with the exception of in/out/switch feeds which are soldered from beneath and then run on top to their destination. When I was putting it together I felt this dilemma of how to route the audio signal with as least wire/distance possible, and still have easy enough access to the IC pins to wire in the +/-15VDC for the IC's. Hence the idea of running them all on top to a common point off the board. (Yes, a BAD IDEA!)

After reading the comments here I really think that I made a mistake in having my PSU so far from the audio card as well. Especially going through the terminal blocks, aren't I adding a heck of a lot of capacitance? And isn't that a big cause of instability?

I really do like PRR's method of lining up the IC's, making easy access to the power rails. Maybe the 6171 is too touchy for perfboard and a novice like me!!!

Anyway, thanks for all of your advice. If y'all have any more pointers on fixing what I have before I tear it apart, please let me know!!

Tonight I'm going to clean up the +15V rail the way I did the -15V rail last night. (Up till 1:00AM with that...) My ground goes like this:

IEC ground pin to 'mains ground' on PSU schematic. To 'enlclosure' as noted bolted to the case. Then 'circuit ground' to both XLR jacks pin 1. Then to the audio card. First we hit the junction between the 2 680pF caps in the debalance sections, then we hit the junction between the 10K resistors and audio pots. Then to the end of the circuit at the 470R resistors. This is all done with one 16AWG wire below the board. No mess like above the board!

Cheers,
Riggler
 
Fired it up and noticed my 634's were HOT!!! Found a short from when I added a coupling cap. Fixed that, both still hot, I can only touch them for 4 seconds.

Maybe they just run hot?

No they don't.

Most probably, you have oscillation going on, causing your 634 to overheat. Get a scope to check it out.

I'm using 634s and they do not get hot, maybe just a tad bit warm, even then almost negligible.  I'm powering them also at max +/-18V.

These chips are high-speed slew rate, 2000V/us, high current chips.  If your layout is not good, insufficient decoupling, expect problems.

Also, the chip by itself is already 30Mhz bandwidth!  Leave the BW pin unconnected if you want to use it at this mode.

If you want to bump the bandwidth to 180Mhz, connect the BW pin to V- via a resistor. 

But what are you making that you need 180Mhz bandwidth? A video amplifier or a headphone amplifier?  Even 30Mhz is thousand times more than enough for audio app.



 
> If y'all have any more pointers on fixing what I have before I tear it apart...

I would try some slower/less problematic operational amplifier, say OPA2134 instead of the LM6171. However, even if the circuit starts behaving more predictably, revisiting the wiring is still a good idea. Browsing headwize or head-fi, one finds many instances of this "BUF634 in an opamp's feedback loop" circuit. I believe that if a reasonably slow opamp is used, the high bandwidth of BUF634 does not represent a big problem.

> If you want to bump the bandwidth to 180Mhz, connect the BW pin to V- via a resistor. But what are you making that you need 180Mhz bandwidth?

I think the BUF634 is used in the wide-bandwidth mode here not for the increased bandwidth itself, but for increased quiescent current through the BUF634's output stage associated with this mode. This is claimed to decrease distortion.
 
I disconnected the BW pin on the 634's and two good things happened:

They now run cool.

With no input feeding the amp, no noise at all! Even with a source plugged in but silent (CD player in pause), all is quiet.

But with the gain all the way down, once I start the music playing, the low frequency hum noise, scratchy noises, and distorted music appear until about  1/4 of the way up. But there's no more hiss distortion, just the low freq hum and general 'breakup'.

So I think that the 6171's are still oscillating. I used 220nF 50V coupling caps. Would a larger value help? Maybe I won't have to rebuild this.

The left channel is almost twice as loud as the right. The right channel sounds very nice!!

I don't think I can just drop in the OPA2134, can I? I think I should use this as a learning experience and get it working anyway.

 
So I think that the 6171's are still oscillating. I used 220nF 50V coupling caps. Would a larger value help? Maybe I won't have to rebuild this.

Do you have 0.1uf ceramic caps within a mm or so of the V+ and V- chip pins?

 

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