OK, I see my hidden fallacy.
I was pretending that Austrailians (etc) know which side of their line is groundED (what we call "White" in US Code). Even if Australian (etc) electrical code enforces this, Murphy's Law can not be repealed. There WILL be a mis-wired outlet somewhere in this box's life.
Therefore our 50Hz/60Hz converter NEEDS to have complete isolation, plus groundING and groundED connections. (I'm assuming that at least the groundING wire, green in US custom, will be correctly connected; if not, the venue's problems are bigger than our box.)
OK, get cheap. I pick up a PC power supply. The secondary has a fully-floating winding making 12VDC (among others). I can (in principle) pull off that 12V (and 5V) winding, count the turns, put 14+14 that many turns on, fiddle the voltage control, and get a fully floating +/-166VDC output. I feed that to an "audio amp", which could be a low-frequency high-THD chopper, and get a sine that swings +162V to -162V relative to a common terminal. That common terminal returns to the Aussie Ground Pin, to the US White hole, and to the US U-hole (just in case there is a vintage amp with a ground pin).
As a minor bonus, the "115VAC" is regulated, and probably low-passed, so it is "better" than you find on US stages. Since the PC power supply is switchable 120V/240V, it actually could sell in Atlanta GA or Lodi NJ: it is a "power filter" to turn crap "120V" power, or any global power, into "vintage 115V 60Hz" power.
Another frill: amps always hum and we don't play in the key of 60hz. 60Hz isn't any relation to a tuning-fork. It isn't necessary to feed the old US stuff exactly 60Hz: they traditionally were designed to work to 57Hz (some bookdock utility companies had slow days) and the iron will not object to higher frequency, 90 or 100Hz. You could "tune the hum" so at least it was on the 12 tones based on 440Hz, maybe even into the key you are playing in, so it "sits with the notes" instead of being a dissonance.
As an order of magnitude for size:
A 2*6L6GC Fender amp will eat 24 watts in the heater, 75 watts in the plates. The heater is a dead resistor. The plates are a cap-input rectifier, so it draws all its current in narrow spikes at the peaks. It is not uncommon to double such a load when estimating the equivalent resistance; I dunno if a switcher needs that allowance.
But the cold heaters draw 3 times the current, so we have 72 watts for several seconds at switch-on.
The power cap also has to charge. If it is a tube rectifier (older Fenders), that won't happen until after the heater start surge is falling. If it is sillycon rectifer (Marshall and newer Fender), it will cap-clamp the line. If the first cap is 40uFd, it reflects to 120V line as about an equivalent 400uFd cap-input rectifier with maybe 20 ohms in series. Could be an 8 Amp spike at the first half-cycle, though you could choose to limit it a bit lower and let it come up over more cycles (that's actually good for the vintage rectifier).
So it could be 1,000VA for a few cycles, 200 Watts for a couple seconds, and 100VA cruising but with a large part of that power at peaks.
There are 4*6L6 amps, and mighty monsters like the SVT, with double or sextuple the power demand, but that might be a higher-price converter. Many of the beasts were produced only as "Export" models and may not have the problems that the old small cheap US-only stuff has in today's global village.
I was pretending that Austrailians (etc) know which side of their line is groundED (what we call "White" in US Code). Even if Australian (etc) electrical code enforces this, Murphy's Law can not be repealed. There WILL be a mis-wired outlet somewhere in this box's life.
Therefore our 50Hz/60Hz converter NEEDS to have complete isolation, plus groundING and groundED connections. (I'm assuming that at least the groundING wire, green in US custom, will be correctly connected; if not, the venue's problems are bigger than our box.)
OK, get cheap. I pick up a PC power supply. The secondary has a fully-floating winding making 12VDC (among others). I can (in principle) pull off that 12V (and 5V) winding, count the turns, put 14+14 that many turns on, fiddle the voltage control, and get a fully floating +/-166VDC output. I feed that to an "audio amp", which could be a low-frequency high-THD chopper, and get a sine that swings +162V to -162V relative to a common terminal. That common terminal returns to the Aussie Ground Pin, to the US White hole, and to the US U-hole (just in case there is a vintage amp with a ground pin).
As a minor bonus, the "115VAC" is regulated, and probably low-passed, so it is "better" than you find on US stages. Since the PC power supply is switchable 120V/240V, it actually could sell in Atlanta GA or Lodi NJ: it is a "power filter" to turn crap "120V" power, or any global power, into "vintage 115V 60Hz" power.
Another frill: amps always hum and we don't play in the key of 60hz. 60Hz isn't any relation to a tuning-fork. It isn't necessary to feed the old US stuff exactly 60Hz: they traditionally were designed to work to 57Hz (some bookdock utility companies had slow days) and the iron will not object to higher frequency, 90 or 100Hz. You could "tune the hum" so at least it was on the 12 tones based on 440Hz, maybe even into the key you are playing in, so it "sits with the notes" instead of being a dissonance.
As an order of magnitude for size:
A 2*6L6GC Fender amp will eat 24 watts in the heater, 75 watts in the plates. The heater is a dead resistor. The plates are a cap-input rectifier, so it draws all its current in narrow spikes at the peaks. It is not uncommon to double such a load when estimating the equivalent resistance; I dunno if a switcher needs that allowance.
But the cold heaters draw 3 times the current, so we have 72 watts for several seconds at switch-on.
The power cap also has to charge. If it is a tube rectifier (older Fenders), that won't happen until after the heater start surge is falling. If it is sillycon rectifer (Marshall and newer Fender), it will cap-clamp the line. If the first cap is 40uFd, it reflects to 120V line as about an equivalent 400uFd cap-input rectifier with maybe 20 ohms in series. Could be an 8 Amp spike at the first half-cycle, though you could choose to limit it a bit lower and let it come up over more cycles (that's actually good for the vintage rectifier).
So it could be 1,000VA for a few cycles, 200 Watts for a couple seconds, and 100VA cruising but with a large part of that power at peaks.
There are 4*6L6 amps, and mighty monsters like the SVT, with double or sextuple the power demand, but that might be a higher-price converter. Many of the beasts were produced only as "Export" models and may not have the problems that the old small cheap US-only stuff has in today's global village.