Phrazemaster
Well-known member
The folks at TAB are the best!!!!
Phrazemaster said:His boards are for using a 5840 sub-mini tube. The 5840s use a 6.2V heater.
You'll blow your AC701 very quickly at anything over 4V on the heater.
The good news is that's easy to adjust the PSU. The bad news (for me) was I had a heck of a time setting the other voltages - not sure why. Dany told me I had a gremlin in the mic after he helped me troubleshoot, so I rebuilt it with a new board and got it working. You'll have to figure out how to wire the AC701 because Dany's instructions are for the 5840.
Do NOT wire up the AC701 and turn on the mic without having first gotten your PSU heater voltage calibrated with a dummy load to 3.8 ~ 3.9V. If memory serves the dummy load was 40K but look through this thread and Dany already answered this one.
Good luck!
Mike
poctop said:it will really be only if you put a AC701K in there that you will obtain those precise results,
this is why the self bias is a no brainer but the b is much more fun and learning,
I have 100K plate resistor, 120 - 68 = 52V so this mean 52V drop trough 100K means 0.52ma, U= RI
52V/100K = i in ma
here is an example,
B+ = 115V
Plate = 53V
Drop across 100k (plate resistor)
= 115-53 = 62V Voltage drop across 100k
that means the tube running at .62ma
We want about 45V on the plate to get to
the specified 0.7ma then
the best at this point is to replace temporarly the plate resistor with a pot lets say 250K and try to tweak both bias pot and plate resistor pot until you find the nearest condition , no one uses same tube and this is a related together and the 2 parameter are related, this is the best approach once you find the sweet spot for it you can replace the plate resistor whit with a 1/4 watt resistor ,
try that and keep me posted and let me know what the balance value you find or the nearest , what tube did you used, and make sure you try the mic first.
Let me know,
Best,
dAN,
poctop said:Hi All, I tought I would share this with everyone , this is a Raw Picture content pictorial of the Prototype I have built for Andriejus.
While Andriejus is Polishing the Last details ,
Tip #1 always keep the lead of the HZ bridging component so you can use them to make the bridging so no need of fancy jumper and so much easier , this is build needs to be built from the top and down , except for the headbasket and capsule mount, well this is how I do it
I am hoping you will appreciate it , this also applies to the General Build of this one ,
So here it is
https://cdn.groupbuilder.com/groupdiy/u/39511/597b45d76f1cd.zip
Best,
Dan,
adrian said:OK Thank you!
so if I understand correctly I can check it between
the jonction of R6-R7 and R5 and K+ (the same as H+).
I use RCA tube.
I have 1,6v between (R6 R7 R5) and K+ : that's OK!
I replaced R10 with a pot and to obtain 45v at Anode and I need 270k !!! wich is very much regarding the BOM value (100k)
If I understand correctly the calcul for the tube running :
118v (my PSU output) - 45v (at A) = 73v
but I= U/R so 73/270 = 0,27mA very far from the 0,73mA ?????? I know I must be wrong somewhere!!!
here is a quote I used to try to understand what I am doing...
Colorblind said:Is this pictorial the same as what is posted on page 1 of this thread, or something different? The link doesn't work for me.
Thanks,
C
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