egroys said:
I built mine specifically for kick. Using the pad jumper (or removing it--I forget which way it works) you'll be fine--even with heavy hitters (I use mine 2.5" in front of the front kick head--not inside it). I love my mic.
Neumann U47FET Clone: D-U47 FET Microphone Project PCB Build thread
- Thread starter poctop
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
I built mine specifically for kick. Using the pad jumper (or removing it--I forget which way it works) you'll be fine--even with heavy hitters (I use mine 2.5" in front of the front kick head--not inside it). I love my mic.
egroys
Well-known member
maarvold said:
Amazing! Thank you. Is there a way to make the pad more than -10db? And is there any loss in tone if I opt to do so?
The reason I ask is I find it to sound a lot juicier if I can crank my 1073 gain and -20 would allow me to do so!
RuudNL
Well-known member
Using a -20 dB pad (at 'normal' levels) will degrade the signal to noise ratio.
The electronics inside the microphone will produce the same amount of noise, but the signal level will be lower.
The electronics inside the microphone will produce the same amount of noise, but the signal level will be lower.
egroys
Well-known member
Thank you for the heads up!
I finally went through and read all 42 pages of this thread! I saw recommendations for the SS22SDP2 switches for pad and that is exactly what I wanted.
I ordered a GT-2B body and Cinemag 13101 from Studio 939, I already have a BeesNeez K47, and I am ready for monster kick drums!
I saw Luka/Shot posted about the GT-2B body resonance. Curious if anyone has found a more permanent solution?
I finally went through and read all 42 pages of this thread! I saw recommendations for the SS22SDP2 switches for pad and that is exactly what I wanted.
I ordered a GT-2B body and Cinemag 13101 from Studio 939, I already have a BeesNeez K47, and I am ready for monster kick drums!
I saw Luka/Shot posted about the GT-2B body resonance. Curious if anyone has found a more permanent solution?
egroys said:
The circuit board has a spot for a jumper that activates a pad in the mic. It's pretty easy to try out and see if you need it or not.
egroys
Well-known member
Hi Luka, have you had any luck with a more permanent solution? I am about to start putting the PCBs in the the body when it comes later this week and would love to get it right on the first try.
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
shot
Well-known member
No, I haven't yet! Not that I don't want to, but it will wait for a some time.
A good friend of mine is finishing building his studio and he already has some bookings, but he had no good vocal mic. He spent most of the money on bricks and mortar. So I borrowed my FET47 to him for next few months until he recoups and buys himself some mics.
Luka
A good friend of mine is finishing building his studio and he already has some bookings, but he had no good vocal mic. He spent most of the money on bricks and mortar. So I borrowed my FET47 to him for next few months until he recoups and buys himself some mics.
Luka
egroys
Well-known member
Makes sense! Would you mind sharing any photos or explaining more about how you dampened with the Blutack? I just ordered some to give this a shot.maarvold said:
Thank you !
egroys
Well-known member
Success! First mic build and it works off the bat. Still running some tests and still intent on dampening the inside a bit but so far so good!
I thought it would have more low end than it does. It takes SPL like a champ, both with and w/o pad, which is amazing.
Low end is solid but not super beefy. I checked that the LC is off. Is there anything I should check that may have been an error? Or any specific tests I can run to make sure everything is copacetic? I realize this is a noob question, but alas, that is me!
I thought it would have more low end than it does. It takes SPL like a champ, both with and w/o pad, which is amazing.
Low end is solid but not super beefy. I checked that the LC is off. Is there anything I should check that may have been an error? Or any specific tests I can run to make sure everything is copacetic? I realize this is a noob question, but alas, that is me!
Colorblind
Well-known member
Anyone know where I can find a 3-pin XLR insert for the GT-2B body? I bought a partially built kit for this mic from a member here and there's no XLR connector. I know Chunger sells them for $2 but I'd rather not pay $16USD for shipping if I can avoid it.
Does Mouser carry something that would fit? Need to order the rest of the mic components from them anyway.
Thanks!
Does Mouser carry something that would fit? Need to order the rest of the mic components from them anyway.
Thanks!
Colorblind
Well-known member
Would this connector fit the GT-2B body?
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/QG3M?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AIKHbLVZLW1UpNtIlbxi9Tg%3D
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/QG3M?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AIKHbLVZLW1UpNtIlbxi9Tg%3D
I remember having to shave a bit off the little "key" nub that fits in the XLR channel, but the Switchcraft connector should work for the GT-2B and is quite nice. Another option is to get a short, cheap XLR cable from Amazon and use the male end. If you do that, make sure that you get one with screws, not the Neutrik style connector. With free shipping, that can be cheaper than Mouser.
Here are two I have used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JTA5VNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJSHXRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here are two I have used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JTA5VNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJSHXRM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Colorblind
Well-known member
doqmemory said:
That's perfect, thanks!
Colorblind
Well-known member
On the partially stuffed boards I bought recently, The previous owner used an isolation pin I haven’t seen before. The pin is soldered into place, and there is continuity between it and the adjacent solder pads.
Isn’t the purpose of the isolation pin to, uh, isolate itself from the rest of the circuit? If I recall, the turrets in the BOM just push through the PCB and are held in place by friction, with no metal making contact. I’m probably missing something. Am I missing something?
Isn’t the purpose of the isolation pin to, uh, isolate itself from the rest of the circuit? If I recall, the turrets in the BOM just push through the PCB and are held in place by friction, with no metal making contact. I’m probably missing something. Am I missing something?
Yes, the whole point of the isolation turret is to isolate from the board. You should probably take that out and replace it with a Teflon turret. You don't really need the turret there for the FET gate, it is just for convenience. You can just solder all of those connections in the air.
Colorblind
Well-known member
doqmemory said:
Ok, good to know. I included the BOM turret in my mouser order, so I might try to replace this one if I can do it without damaging anything. Thanks again!
JW
Well-known member
Couple questions.
So the pcb is 50mm wide? Or is that the width between rails for the Chunger body? I ask because I'm thinking about attempting to build this into a DIY body from way back, made by forum member Seavote.
Also, I have a U47 (tube) style transformer from i/oaudio. Will this be fine for a 47fet transformer or are they totally different?
So the pcb is 50mm wide? Or is that the width between rails for the Chunger body? I ask because I'm thinking about attempting to build this into a DIY body from way back, made by forum member Seavote.
Also, I have a U47 (tube) style transformer from i/oaudio. Will this be fine for a 47fet transformer or are they totally different?
JW said:
Dimensions for most boards are on the order page.
47FET transformer ratio is 9:1, so U47 6.5:1 transformer is not right. A transformer for the M49 might work, though, since the ratio 10:1 is closer.
Similar threads
