Neumann U67 Clone : D-U67 Tube Microphone Build Thread.

[Phrazemaster]

I thought I was all set to build the PSU when I realized to my horror my case, a lovely danderloo, was set for binders. I have them but was going to use them on another project. Since I'm going to sacrifice the other project binders for the PSU for this project, I thought it only made sense to go higher end for the mic connection rather than the 7-pin xlr. So, even though it might be funny to mix a binder on the PSU case and an Amphenol on the mic end, at least it will be quality.

I found the mic amphenol connector that wave posted in another thread here (thx wave!):

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3477_000virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3477-000

And searching on mouser found this cable connector:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3476_001virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3476-001

Do I have those parts mated correctly for going into the microphone from Chunger?

Also what is involved in the boring on the bottom of the mic exactly? I don't have a lot of equipment but what is it going to take?

Thanks for responses,

Mike

EDIT: for clarity and doing my own homework for this post

bump?

 

[Phrazemaster]

OK, PSU complete! Wow, whoever said DIY was cheaper or easier than buying is nuts! It's a sick addiction!!!

I'll post three photos, three posts. Anyone know how to do multiple photos per post?

I'm getting -16.45v for H-, and 246v for B+, unloaded. As others have reported, The B+ trimmer works fine but the H- does not, until loaded. I can't test that yet since I still have to put the mic together! 

 

[Phrazemaster]

Second pic.

 

[Phrazemaster]

And the all-important "action shot." Look mom, the LIGHT works!

 

[micaddict]

Wow, whoever said DIY was cheaper or easier than buying is nuts!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-NEUMANN-U67-ORIGINAL-VINTAGE-TUBE-CONDENSER-MIC-/300961737208

It's a sick addiction!!!

;D

 

[poctop]

OK, PSU complete! Wow, whoever said DIY was cheaper or easier than buying is nuts! It's a sick addiction!!!

I'll post three photos, three posts. Anyone know how to do multiple photos per post?

I'm getting -16.45v for H-, and 246v for B+, unloaded. As others have reported, The B+ trimmer works fine but the H- does not, until loaded. I can't test that yet since I still have to put the mic together! 

Thanks for the picture, Very Neat Build,  if you want to post several picture on a post you can use the image tag and post a link from a dropbox site public link or such ,

you are correct saying that the voltage cannot be adjusted with no load , the heater voltage at -16.45V is perfectly in line and the B+ also ,
if you wish you could calculate a load for the heater and also for the B+ and stick a resistor at the xlr psu connector and Pre adjust it before connecting the mic , 

i had made the demonstration on how to do it and calculate it a little earlier in this thread for your reference ,


Best,
Dan,

 

[Phrazemaster]

Thank-you, sir creator, sir PocTop Dan!!

 

[Phrazemaster]

Wow, whoever said DIY was cheaper or easier than buying is nuts!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-NEUMANN-U67-ORIGINAL-VINTAGE-TUBE-CONDENSER-MIC-/300961737208

It's a sick addiction!!!

;D

Touche! But then again, doubt I could sell this baby for 6.5K even though it's a great design! 

 

[Phrazemaster]

I thought I was all set to build the PSU when I realized to my horror my case, a lovely danderloo, was set for binders. I have them but was going to use them on another project. Since I'm going to sacrifice the other project binders for the PSU for this project, I thought it only made sense to go higher end for the mic connection rather than the 7-pin xlr. So, even though it might be funny to mix a binder on the PSU case and an Amphenol on the mic end, at least it will be quality.

I found the mic amphenol connector that wave posted in another thread here (thx wave!):

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3477_000virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3477-000

And searching on mouser found this cable connector:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3476_001virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3476-001

Do I have those parts mated correctly for going into the microphone from Chunger?

Also what is involved in the boring on the bottom of the mic exactly? I don't have a lot of equipment but what is it going to take?

Thanks for responses,

Mike

EDIT: for clarity and doing my own homework for this post

bump?

No thoughts, anyone? I wonder if wave Dave ever visits now that he's done his U67's...

 

[potstweaker]

im getting a hum out of the mic,and not really picking up anything. any ideas?

 

[poctop]

im getting a hum out of the mic,and not really picking up anything. any ideas?

are your switch pins all soldered in the swicth board and the shell of the switch short to ground and mic chassis ,
do you have the jumper installed on Shlf in the psu , how is your cabling arrange , ground scheme ,  did you try swapping tube to see if it improves or not ,
Hope this helps,
Dan,

 

[Dylan W]

I thought I was all set to build the PSU when I realized to my horror my case, a lovely danderloo, was set for binders. I have them but was going to use them on another project. Since I'm going to sacrifice the other project binders for the PSU for this project, I thought it only made sense to go higher end for the mic connection rather than the 7-pin xlr. So, even though it might be funny to mix a binder on the PSU case and an Amphenol on the mic end, at least it will be quality.

I found the mic amphenol connector that wave posted in another thread here (thx wave!):

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3477_000virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3477-000

And searching on mouser found this cable connector:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3476_001virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3476-001

Do I have those parts mated correctly for going into the microphone from Chunger?

Also what is involved in the boring on the bottom of the mic exactly? I don't have a lot of equipment but what is it going to take?

Thanks for responses,

Mike

EDIT: for clarity and doing my own homework for this post

bump?

Yes, those parts are correct. To bore the mic end cap, I used a drill press at low RPMs and an Irwin step bit. I seem to remember that I needed to go partway in with the largest diameter step (7/8" on a #4 bit). The tab on the connector required making a notch with a needle file. Installed it with some JB Weld (make sure to solder leads to it first).

The stepbit was kind of a kludge... there's probably a better straight bit to use. I would be wary of trying this without a drillpress.

 

[poctop]

I thought I was all set to build the PSU when I realized to my horror my case, a lovely danderloo, was set for binders. I have them but was going to use them on another project. Since I'm going to sacrifice the other project binders for the PSU for this project, I thought it only made sense to go higher end for the mic connection rather than the 7-pin xlr. So, even though it might be funny to mix a binder on the PSU case and an Amphenol on the mic end, at least it will be quality.

I found the mic amphenol connector that wave posted in another thread here (thx wave!):

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3477_000virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3477-000

And searching on mouser found this cable connector:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=T_3476_001virtualkey52360000virtualkey523-T3476-001

Do I have those parts mated correctly for going into the microphone from Chunger?

Also what is involved in the boring on the bottom of the mic exactly? I don't have a lot of equipment but what is it going to take?

Thanks for responses,

Mike

EDIT: for clarity and doing my own homework for this post

bump?

Yes, those parts are correct. To bore the mic end cap, I used a drill press at low RPMs and an Irwin step bit. I seem to remember that I needed to go partway in with the largest diameter step (7/8" on a #4 bit). The tab on the connector required making a notch with a needle file. Installed it with some JB Weld (make sure to solder leads to it first).

The stepbit was kind of a kludge... there's probably a better straight bit to use. I would be wary of trying this without a drillpress.

I did the mod on one of mine , IIRC i used a 11/16 or 13/16 ? metal bell on a press drill and taped a side hole wth a 4/40 thread and mounted with a set screw  the unibit is also a great tool for this , a must have DIY tool in all case ,
Best,
DAN,

 

[Phrazemaster]

Dylan and Dan, thanks much!

Right now I don't have access to a garage or have a drill press, so I'm thinking I may just take it over to a local machine shop and see if they can do it for me. I know that's not DIY but sometimes you gotta get outside help for things you aren't currently equipped to do.

I bored the hole for the PSU light; had to get a 5/16" bit with reduced shank (bit cost $21.99!! yikes!). I didn't have a drill press, and all I can say is thank the Gods for the bevel around the light or that PSU would look like $.it. The PSU kept jumping around and the hole was definitely *not* round.

Thanks both of you; this confirms I'll go the machine shop route and I'll let you guys know how it came out. I much prefer the beefier Tuchel/Amphenol connectors, although the 7=pin XLR is OK.

By the way Dan was your threaded hole there for ground connection or was that just how you mounted the endcap to the mic after boring?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Phrazemaster]

Little confused building the high-Z section.

One doc has C5 C4 C7 the other has C5 C7 C4...not sure why the caps are interchanged. Are the connections still right? Or is one right and the other has an error?

How do I handle this?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[poctop]

Little confused building the high-Z section.

One doc has C5 C4 C7 the other has C5 C7 C4...not sure why the caps are interchanged. Are the connections still right? Or is one right and the other has an error?

How do I handle this?

Thanks,

Mike

Thanks For catchinig this Mike,  i remember at one time i corrected that for the production pcb , so the pcb is entirely correct, Even checked it this morning and it is all correct, 
I made a note on correcting the wiring diagram document at some point and it fell in the cracks, it was that the component label was misplaced on the drawing ,

Can you Let me know the exact source of those 2 document your are pointing out, As I will correct it to avoid further confusion ,

also note that the M269b thread is a nice complement for the U67 build as it has a switch board pictorial and also for the capsule.

Let me know,
Best,
DAN,

 

[Phrazemaster]

HI Dan, no problem. One is the OverallConnections.pdf, and the other is the Main Board Identification.pdf. Both are in the build folder.

My predicment now is I don't remember which is the right one and I already installed the caps! Can anyone remind me, which is the correct order so I don't screw up the high-z section I'm trying to figure out?

Is it what shows in the Main Board Identification file, C5 C7 C4, or is it as shown in the Overall Connections file, C5, C4 C7?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Phrazemaster]

Nevermind; I was able to carefully lift the caps and the correct order, as shown on the PCB anyway is: C5 C7 C4

Since Dan said the PCB is entirely correct, this would match the main board identification file, and not the Overall Connections file.

So now the question is, what is right on the Overall Connections file? Are the caps as labelled wired correctly to the other connections? I'm not sure if I can follow the Overall Connections file now...

Dan?

Thanks,

Mike 

Edit for clarity.

 

[poctop]

Nevermind; I was able to carefully lift the caps and the correct order, as shown on the PCB anyway is: C5 C7 C4

Since Dan said the PCB is entirely correct, this would match the main board identification file, and not the Overall Connections file.

So now the question is, what is right on the Overall Connections file? Are the caps as labelled wired correctly to the other connections? I'm not sure if I can follow the Overall Connections file now...

Dan?

Thanks,

Mike 

Edit for clarity.

So now the question is, what is right on the Overall Connections file? Are the caps as labelled wired correctly to the other connections? I'm not sure if I can follow the Overall Connections file now...

everything is right on the overall connection document except that the cap number are inverted, pcb and main identification are correct.  if you make abstraction of the cap number and since they are the same value 0.01u nothing will change but i will be correcting the overall connection document to avoid confusion , thanks for catching this,
Best,
Dan,

 

[Phrazemaster]

Nevermind; I was able to carefully lift the caps and the correct order, as shown on the PCB anyway is: C5 C7 C4

Since Dan said the PCB is entirely correct, this would match the main board identification file, and not the Overall Connections file.

So now the question is, what is right on the Overall Connections file? Are the caps as labelled wired correctly to the other connections? I'm not sure if I can follow the Overall Connections file now...

Dan?

Thanks,

Mike 

Edit for clarity.

So now the question is, what is right on the Overall Connections file? Are the caps as labelled wired correctly to the other connections? I'm not sure if I can follow the Overall Connections file now...

everything is right on the overall connection document except that the cap number are inverted, pcb and main identification are correct.  if you make abstraction of the cap number and since they are the same value 0.01u nothing will change but i will be correcting the overall connection document to avoid confusion , thanks for catching this,
Best,
Dan,

Thanks Dan, I think I get it. I can be a bit dyslexic about such things, but I'll post if I can't figure it. I think it's clear.

I'm going to contact a couple of machine shops this week for boring the base of the mic for the Amphenol connectors; hope I can find someone local who can do it. Doesn't look like a big job.

Thanks again,

Mike