Neve style 500 series mic pre 1290 1073

[onlymeeee]

ok, i give up.
I wont be getting those relays, i'm 24v and i will do as you say onlymee and just jumper them.
someone kind enough to hold our hands and point out the exact jumper positions on a picture for us?
cheers

@jandoste...   Good work!!!! Looking good.   Just a few things to do really before on, the main thing being the trim pot is completely counterclockwise to start with   http://www.thedonclassics.com/nv73manual.html

@canidoit.. the BOM (googledoc) has always been correct.. the only thing that went wrong with the mouser cart was that the out of stock items at the time were removed. instead of showing up as backordered. Fixed now.
psC4 is in the googledoc.  It's needed for power supply ripple.  Any 100uF (there abouts) 25V will do (as long as it fits physically) 6 mm Dia. x 10 mm L mouser says it is.

In the pic I hadn't finished all soldering.. just wanted to make clear to solder the bottom of the DC-DC converter parts before putting in the DC-DC converter.. so you have the option of just leaving the DC-DC converter in the sockets on the board without needing to 'get at the underneath'  If that makes sense..  Not a big deal either way. That's what the sockets are for after all

There's a couple of high res pictures of the PCB silkscreen I posted a couple of pages back to check any references/part values.

The middle 2 legs don't do anything for this circuit so I just leave them hanging

either that you have for sockets is fine.. I like to keep the 6 space ones for transistors tho.. A 6 space is less fiddly to fit than two 3 spaces.


EDIT... updated incorrect picture.

 

[canidoit]

onlymeee, your BOM list and on the PCB board, RGND is 10r 1 watt but yet the cart order and part reference is for 10r 1/2 watt?

Will this make a difference? Have you noticed any browning/burning of the resistor since it is a lower wattage on any of the builds you have created that's been used for a while?

 

[canidoit]

On the underside of your PCB board, you have C5 100uf 25v written. I am looking at your main BOM list which I follow when soldering parts and I can not see C5 listed on it?

 

[canidoit]

dlyC1 47uf 10v on the underside of your main PCB?

This part or part# is not in your BOM list? Are we meant to be using dlyC2 for this in your BOM list?

 

[canidoit]

Is C5 (100uf 25v) on the underside of the main PCB board meant to be C7b (80uf 25v changed to 100uf 25v) on the BOM list?

Do I have the wrong BOM list or are people just following something else? I do not understand how no one spotted these errors?

 

[jandoste]

dlyC1 47uf 10v on the underside of your main PCB?

This part or part# is not in your BOM list? Are we meant to be using dlyC2 for this in your BOM list?

I think, 47 uf 10v # MAL202136479E3 was that !
http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/MAL202136479E3/?qs=IODwLvXzwT1kQjYsvXHV4Q%3d%3d

 

[jandoste]

Is C5 (100uf 25v) on the underside of the main PCB board meant to be C7b (80uf 25v changed to 100uf 25v) on the BOM list?

Do I have the wrong BOM list or are people just following something else? I do not understand how no one spotted these errors?

I think we can use 100uf 25v !

 

[canidoit]

Hey Jandoste, thanks mate for your response : )

The small PCB has 22uf printed on it but no voltage or part number. I have installed the component under c2f on the BOM list, which is 22uf 10volts. Do you know if this is correct? Refer to red circle.

 

[jandoste]

Hey Jandoste, thanks mate for your response : )

The small PCB has 22uf printed on it but no voltage or part number. I have installed the component under c2f on the BOM list, which is 22uf 10volts. Do you know if this is correct? Refer to red circle.

22uf 10 is correct !

 

[kepeb]

really?

so the bottom two (spaced away) pins are the magnet coil in the relay yea?
and the switching switches the two 'common' connections to the opposite adjacent pins... i dont see what this is doing on the board.

i've not used relays before, only transistors so this is helpful.

some people just never stop posting dumbass questions do they!

 

[onlymeeee]

10R - not much voltage drop happens here so half watt is fine.

C7B is C5 (in disguise?!) A quick apple-F on the schematic brings no results for C7B.  BOM updated.
dlyC1 is dlyC2  
These are updated on the BOM list..
The main thing in the BOM list is that the parts are right.. and the PCB is right.. so I think that's how none of us have noticed.. we look for 100uF 25V on the PCB .. and put a 100uF 25V in there!  
As I say though, the BOM names are updated now.  



@Kebeb...  Yep!   Have a look on the datasheet for confirmation.  What you have to do is jumper so that it is switched to the position it would be when 24V is at the coil.   Honest!   ha!!

 

[canidoit]

What did you guys use for the pins for the DC section? Did you guys break of the black plastic part off the Headers & Wire Housings 36P STRT 1 ROW GOLD?

Thanks.

 

[onlymeeee]

What did you guys use for the pins for the DC section? Did you guys break of the black plastic part off the Headers & Wire Housings 36P STRT 1 ROW GOLD?

Thanks.

 

[jandoste]

@jandoste...   Good work!!!! Looking good.   Just a few things to do really before on, the main thing being the trim pot is completely counterclockwise to start with   http://www.thedonclassics.com/nv73manual.html

TESTS BEFORE TURN ON:

THE CASE OF THE 2N3055 MUST SHORT TO THE FIRST TERMINAL OF THE OUTPUT TRANSFORMER (PIN 1)
PIN 1 OF OUTPUT TRANSFORMER MUST NOT HAVE A RESISTANCE TO GROUND (SHOULD READ OFF THE SCALE OF YOUR MULTIMETER)
SAME AS ABOVE FOR PIN 3 OF OUTPUT TRANSFORMER
ON THE GOLD FINGERS, PIN 14 MUST HAVE A HIGH RESISTANCE (NOT SHORT) TO PIN 12 OR PIN 13

Ok, I can not realize the calibration sorry! (sorry about this stupid question
How can I do this calibration mode with API lunchbox? so I need to open the box?
cheers,

 

[onlymeeee]

Ah, you mean because when it's in the rack you can't get access to it?

I've got a edac connector loose with wiring taking it to XLRs and power supply.. for bias setting.

Though...the tests you've quoted can all be done out of the lunchbox rack.

The only one you need to do whilst powered up is the bias point.. (trim pot) which I think you can get at just about by having it in slot one of rack and nothing else in the lunchbox

 

[canidoit]

Does anyone know if these two solder points (P circled in red are meant to be shorting or touching?

I accidentally soldered them together and removed the solder, but they are still touching. They are "P" and a blank solder point which is used for the cable at the underside.

Thank you 

 

[canidoit]

Does anyone have an untouched PCB board? Can you please check something for me on your board or if you know the answer.

I have soldered the grayhill switch and there are 2 areas where the solder has bridged on other solder points. Can someone please tell me if these 5 points (3 and 2 sets) are meant to be bridged naturally which I have circled in red?

Thanks

 

[tmuikku]

...
I have soldered the grayhill switch and there are 2 areas where the solder has bridged on other solder points. Can someone please tell me if these 5 points (3 and 2 sets) are meant to be bridged naturally which I have circled in red?
...

Check from schematics?In general: Figure out from PCB which components are connected with those dots and check from schematics if the components are connected with each other. In this case you need to know how the switch worksi. It might take minute or two with multimeter to figure out how the switch is connected inside.

ps. Most of your problems seem to be such that can be solved by looking the schematics

 

[canidoit]

tmuikku, thanks for the reply : )

I have tried looking at onlymee's schematics for a couple of hours. It's like one of those two pics in one pic pic tricks. You know where if you focus on the pic, you are meant to see the second pic. Well I can't see that second pic.

Anyways, I only need a few of my posts answered or confirmed and I am pretty much done with the build and ready for the calibration process.

 

[canidoit]

Onlymee, I am a little concerned regarding c5b which is touching the DC-DC converter and output pot.

Whats the concensus about components touching each other in a build in general and this build? Is it safe to do so, will it shorten lifespan or cause noise issues, etc.

Does this area get hot where the c5b is?