Official 33609 builder's tread. See 1st page for updates.

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Hi all,
I used Lorlin switches for my 33609 build.

For the compressor threshold switch, can anyone tell me what the dbu values should be for each of the 12 steps on the Lorlin? Problem is, there are ten settings on the faceplate , but there are twelve positions on the Lorlin. The steps don't line up very well with the faceplate, especially on the most CCW settings. (I guess the faceplate was probably silk-screened for the Elma switches.)

Seems like this will be important for calibration.... I want to make sure that I am selecting -4dbu properly, etc... I guess the CCW position on the Lorlin would be -20dbu threshold? Which one is 0dbu or -4dbu?
thanks!
 
Hey guys

skimmed through the post twice and searched, so here goes:
is there a requirement for HFE? Some people seemed to suggest to match the 2 channels (which makes sense).

Now, I have about 60 BC184C between 450-500 hfe :p can I use these?  ;D
Asking because most people raise older N%v gear as requiring 600+ on BC184C hfe.

About the heatshink, our J has a MASSIVE heatsink on the opamps. Igor, how's your unit behaving in Israel conditions? still going strong after all these years?

cheeeeeeers
J
 
Hi Everybody!

¿ Is there anyone offering front panels for the 33609 IN EUROPE?


Thank you very much,
JAY X
 
Hi All!

Two week ago i started studying the making of this compressor, and would like to have your opinions on how easy/difficult really is to have this compressor working as close as possible to original specs.. It seems that even with same value resistors, compressor settings are slightly different.

I have the 33609 BOM, and noticed that:

1. Some transistors are out of stock! ¿can anyone suggest alternatives?

BC184 ---> BC237BG / BC184C
BC214 ---> ?
BC441 ---> ?
J109  ----> OK
JE371  ---> mje371G OK


2. There is a selection of transformers to be used, but ¿which to choose?

OEP:

A262CAN (ON PCB) OK
A262A2E  ( ON PCB) OK

OUTPUT TRANSFORMERS ---> ?

3. Values of Cz and Rz?

4. 990 opamp  ¿is it optional? Or not?

Thank you very much,
JAY X
 
JAY X said:
1. Some transistors are out of stock! ¿can anyone suggest alternatives?

BC184 ---> BC237BG / BC184C
BC214 ---> ?
BC441 ---> ?
J109  ----> OK
JE371  ---> mje371G OK
BC184, BC441 and BC214 are available on ebay, or at least, I got some a few weeks back

2. There is a selection of transformers to be used, but ¿which to choose?

OEP:

A262CAN (ON PCB) OK
A262A2E  ( ON PCB) OK

OUTPUT TRANSFORMERS ---> ?
L31267 = VTB9046 or VTB9046M
L10468 = VTB9045 or VTB9045M
L1173 = VTB9056
in order. These are for Carnhill.
There are also Lundahl and some people used sowters.

First 15 odd pages on this thread have all the info needed on transformers, specially the first 5 odd pages. You can choose to your preference as long as you consider this http://www.technicalaudio.com/reading/neve_xfmrs/neve_edo7113.html you'll be fine.

3. Values of Cz and Rz?
transformer dependent. these form a zobel network. http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=32441.0
haven't gotten around these just yet.

4. 990 opamp  ¿is it optional? Or not?
Do you mean the BA340 opamp? yes this is required and included in the kit.
Alternatively, you can use a J990 (it's an either/or case, but it needs to be there) if you stuff the resistors marked as J (look under the board and in the schematic).

Thank you very much,
JAY X
you are welcome
 
Hi jplebre!

Thanks for the info!

Audiomaintenance has the trafos!! Ok.
I will check those transistors at ebay..
Cz and Rz  thread is ok, very useful!!

About the BA340, found some info about BA340: http://www.geocities.jp/dave_group_japan/ekoukoku7.html


JAY X
 
Jay, did you download the document .rar file that igor has on his shop?
Most of that stuff is there (including the BA340 schem) :)
 
sm58 said:
1. Transformer Typ
this (sowter 8751) is not the correct transformer. The Sowter 8751 is a replacement part for the LO1166 (DC gapped, see the B+ marking on the primary) with a ratio of 1:1.5
anyway... if wired correct it should pass audio in your 33609 derivat.

2. Transformer windings
The Transformer have ONE primary winding and TWO secondary windings
Yellow(1) / red (3) are the PRIMARY windings. Yellow is +, red is -.
White (5) / gray (6) is the FIRST SECONDARY winding, white is +, gray is -.
Blue (7) / brown (8 ) is the SECOND SECONDARY winding, blue is +, brown is -.

3. Wiring
for a step up Setup (1:1.5):
Pri: Yellow + and Red -
Sec: White +, gray and blue linked, brown -

hope it helps

Thank you sm58. I know you replied back in November but I took a break from the 33609 project because it was driving me nuts! Your wiring guide DID work! Thank you so much. However, I can't seem to get any gain out of the right channel [it does pass audio, but just barely and the gain switch doesn't work]. Can this be an issue with the transistors? Or transformers? Has anyone else had this problem? Also  the left channel is about 10dB lower than it should be.
 
Hey guys can you please confirm me the following:

Main power LED - was going to tap off the 24v DC supply - extra holes on the bypass board for a blue (3.2v drop) LED. Using an online calculator and I would need a 3.3k resistor to get this guy to sit across the 24v and only carry 8mA (it's a superbright so 10mA it's usually too much).

LED's on Bypass for meters. the 3.3k resistor provided on the PCB should be enough to wire the meters in series? (hairball LED meters). Igor uses a big resistor on his pics in between the 2 meters but I can't tell what's the value and why. According to the above calculation, the included 3.3k resistor might already be a bit too much for the meters LEDs. What do you think, do I need anything else here?

Might have done a bit of a dudu with the interstage trafo. I've just re-read the schemos and the secondaries seem to be wired in parallel, not series.
But I thought I had to achieve 10k:2.4k (series:series on L31267) and 1k2:4k8 (series:series on L10468) to achieve -6dB and +6dB, respectively, at the input and interstage.

I've come to the above by realising that the 33609J and this one behave almost absolutely identical. 8 out of 10 you couldn't tell swapping or ABing.
But one track had this very breath-y, room-y drums, and the 33609J were tight - clinical! - on that low end and the 33609C was just letting it breathe.

 
Is anyone in the LA-area interested in getting my (almost-working!) 33609 up, running, and calibrated? Naturally, this would be a paid job. I just can't seem to find the time right now, but I really need one working!

If anyone is interested, please respond to this post.

All the best,

Dan P.
 
Hey guys Bump on the above.

Also, I have a click everytime I go in/out main bypass. I didn't really noticed it but now I need to engage the comp mid-way through a song soooooo :p
Maybe I got the wrong relays? (non-shorting or something? does this even apply to relays?)
I used these http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=9913653


... or should I use the pad in the PSU and ground it to the case? would this help? the unit is dead quiet (no hums, etc.) otherwise.
 
..so after almost 4 years my 33609 is finished :eek:
just checking first board and have an issue.. unit passes audio in comp and bypass mode .when i follow the calibration proc. then i get correct levels in bypass mode..not ricky..but as in the org. neve and igors steps point 4.1 is where  i cannot come further.at first my output level when bypass disengaged is to hot with 1.1 Volts when i feed the input with 0.775 v with rv1 cranked to most left .even more unexpected is that when i touch ground (via the switches f.e.) the level gets down about 0.2
volts . seems i am having grounding issues. or could it be that my multimeter has a too high impedance and i have to teminate before i measure ?
thank you all
axel
 
Frank (electrochronic) https://sites.google.com/site/diypartsstore/catalog/transistors-diodes
or ebay it seems :S http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=1n4153&_sacat=0&_from=R40
 

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