Id like to add that the paint on the chassis needs to be removed where your pots and switches go otherwise there's no ground up there. I had a bad hum on mine until i removed the paint to allow a connection to the chassis/ground.
Welcome Gary! Great to have you with us!Gary C. said:Hello.
I'm late to the party - have enjoyed reading all of your posts.
Ordered the LA2A chassis from Rainton, and it is finally Out For Delivery, after a seemingly interminable wait at Customs in New York.
Been collecting UTC transformers lately, getting prepared....
I used all stranded wire for both of my builds. I did not have enough space with all of the wiring and components to do a solid wire ground bus. Both of mine are quiet and work great. Just make VERY sure you tightly twist your heater wires using a drill. But don't rip the leads out of the power transformer. Or you can even use a DC heater circuit instead of AC from the transformer which is what I am doing.I’m starting to source all the materials for this build - just wondering if there’s a consensus is on what wire should be used?
I saw Martin said somewhere he was going to write a separate article about stranded vs solid core wire, but haven’t been able to find it. Just read the Drip Dual Opto guide which seemed to specify solid core in a number of places.
Is there a best practice, either from a practical build or a sonic perspective?
Quick Q for ideas. Meter is not showing gain reduction. Everything else works, output metering works, meter zeroes, and I can HEAR gain reduction working normally. But, it just doesn't move the meter. Changed the tubes and looked over the wiring half a dozen times. Sound familiar to everyone?
Paul, that's a fantastic lead, thank you! Out of curiosity, what questions did you have? Were they to do with things that one might naturally run into when using this board, or more esoteric?I found a guy selling boards for tube heaters. I used them in my 176 builds and they work great as far a reducing noise.
The guy was helpful with a couple of questions I had and the ones in my 176 builds are solid.
Thank you beatnik. Very informative.I believe the single pole switch could be dangerous if for some reason the neutral becomes live, and the user is poking inside the unit with the power cable still connected.
On paper it is more dangerous but truth is, if one doesn't know electrical safety then they shouldn't be opening things up.
In my opinion a more important safety aspect that sometimes is not addressed properly on diy builds is to make sure there is a good connection to safety earth throughout the entire chassis. On many off the shelf enclosures the grounding is often undetermined so one needs to remove paint work / anodisation or add wiring. I wish some manufacturers charged a little extra and provided parts that have been masked prior to powder coating ...
And if you are using a fuse holder not integrated in the IEC inlet, make sure it's wired in the correct polarity ! If the user tries changing the fuse with the mains cable plugged in, the live becomes exposed.