Recessed Switches for panel PCB

[AshtrayWasp]

I'm trying to find a toggle switch I could use for a panel pcb that'll also have some pots in it but I want the switch to have that recessed look, like in the picture, and I think all the ones I could find still in production would protrude too much and just have the threaded part coming through. Anyone know where I could find some that would look like in the picture with pots mounted as well.

 

[TwentyTrees]

If I understand right what you're looking to achieve, I do a similar thing with my panels using standard toggle switches mounted to a second panel that's attached to the back of the front panel. Pots and switches tend to be mounted to that internal panel as well, keeping all nuts and bushing off the front panel - makes things look cleaner to my eyes.

You'll see what I mean here (with a little discussion round mounting the toggle switches):
https://groupdiy.com/threads/project-helios-ten-type-69-in-3u.77989

 

[RSRecords]

they also make non panel mount switches that attach to the pcb only. Not sure if that's a good idea structurally though.

 

[AshtrayWasp]

If I understand right what you're looking to achieve, I do a similar thing with my panels using standard toggle switches mounted to a second panel that's attached to the back of the front panel. Pots and switches tend to be mounted to that internal panel as well, keeping all nuts and bushing off the front panel - makes things look cleaner to my eyes.

You'll see what I mean here (with a little discussion round mounting the toggle switches):
https://groupdiy.com/threads/project-helios-ten-type-69-in-3u.77989

I see so its just another aluminium panel offset from the main panel? and how do you secure that panel to the main panel? Screws on the sides?

 

[AshtrayWasp]

they also make non panel mount switches that attach to the pcb only. Not sure if that's a good idea structurally though.

Yeah don't know about that, would rather have more structural integrity than have them floating

 

[TwentyTrees]

I see so its just another aluminium panel offset from the main panel? and how do you secure that panel to the main panel? Screws on the sides?

Threaded standoffs on the rear of the front panel is generally how I do 19" panels.

 

[AshtrayWasp]

Threaded standoffs on the rear of the front panel is generally how I do 19" panels.

Do you have a picture? I can't seem to picture it in my head without it being a bit wobbly if the panel is only secured by that

 

[TwentyTrees]

Sure, here's a few from my W492 EQ build.

Here's the internal panel, from the front. You'll see that all controls are mounted directly on the internal panel, and there are 14 additional holes that match to threaded standoffs (M3 bolts) welded to the back of the front panel. I use one nut per standoff to set the distance from the front panel, and another to secure the internal panel. No wobbles whatsoever, it's solid as you like - if anything, the internal panel and front panel reinforce each other.



Top down view during construction - you'll see the internal panel secured to the front panel at the top.


And the finished unit from the front. The only visible hardware are the chassis bolts left and right, everything else is hidden. The Fantom passive EQ below is done the same - the MS PQ76 above is a much earlier build with controls mounted directly on the front panel.


Hope that helps to illustrate the idea.

 

[TwentyTrees]

Exhibit 2, a few angles of a Neumann V472-2 racked up using the same approach:

 

[AshtrayWasp]

Thank you for the pictures, they look beautiful! I see what you mean now. Also out of curiosity, what software do you use to make the panel designs and the knob scales?

 

[TwentyTrees]

Thanks for the kind words! Glad to help. I use Inkscape for all my designs, then transfer them to Front Panel Designer.

 

[sodderboy]

Schweet builds!
Mike

 

[AshtrayWasp]

How do you get the knob scales like you do for the frequency? I use synth panel designer but its hard to align them all like that

 

[TwentyTrees]

I design all my scales manually in Inkscape using vectors.

 

[beatnik]

Nice work ! I see you are using frontpanels.de chassis system, do you also get the front panels made by them ?
I wasn't too happy with the welded bolts on aluminium panels, in some instances they came off very easily.

On more recent times they use another method by drilling a blind hole in the back of the panel and fix a grub screw with a strong epoxy.
I am not sure whether the blind hole is threaded or it's just the glue holding the bolt in place, but the end result is quite strong, a lot better than the welded parts, in my experience at least.

I also had some panels made by another company using this kind of press fit inserts and the result is very good

https://catalog.pemnet.com/viewitem...led-head-studs-types-cha-cfha-chc-cfhc-metric

 

[TwentyTrees]

Yes, I generally get my panels done by frontpanels.de. I had similar experiences with one welded bolt a little while ago - it's good to hear they've changed how they do this. I'd been considering blind tapped hopes with epoxy but wasn't sure a 3mm panel would give a screw enough to bite into, sounds like they've sorted it though. Thanks for the info.

Have heard good things about PEM fasteners!

 

[RSRecords]

Just chiming in to say that Frank at frontpanels.de is awesome to work with.

 

[TwentyTrees]

Just chiming in to say that Frank at frontpanels.de is awesome to work with.

He is! Top guy, quality work. Love his chassis system as well.

 

[kingcredie]

Exhibit 2, a few angles of a Neumann V472-2 racked up using the same approach:

View attachment 107733

View attachment 107734

View attachment 107735

Hello friend,

May I know What's this product? I'm very curious because it need so many PCBs.

Linda

 

[MidnightArrakis]

Threaded standoffs on the rear of the front panel is generally how I do 19" panels.

Has anyone here ever heard of "PEM" hardware??? I use these devices all of the time by the boatloads on my chassis designs!!!

Here are a few examples:

>> The dark circular devices that you see the machine screw thread protruding through are called "PEM-nuts".
They are directly -- pressed-fit -- into the sheet-metal by the sheet-metal fabrication shop. No washers or external
nuts are required.


Down below are shown a variety of "PEM Threaded Studs" and the
small doohickey shown at the upper-center with a hole in it is a "PEM
Threaded Standoff: ↓↓


This image shows the above devices from their mounting surface side:
(Notice that they are all "Flush-Mounted")


The image down below shows some "PEM Push-On" PCB-standoffs that
are "Press-Fit" into the sheet-metal. The sheet-metal fabricator has the
equipment to -- force -- the (yellow) standoffs into the metalwork. Then,
when you are ready to mount a PCB into the chassis, you merely align
and place the PCB over the standoffs and apply a bit of pressure onto
the PCB to -- force -- the PCB down and onto the standoff. Once in place,
the -- tangs -- of the standoff expand and firmly hold the PCB in place,
no screws, washers or nuts are required!!! A very clean appearance. (NOTE:
The standoffs shown in the upper-and-lower-left corners are actually pressed
into the front-panel, but I have suppressed the front-panel in this view so the
other items can be seen. The light-grey item that you see the machine screws
screwed into are the same type of "PEM-nut" as is shown in the above first image).


I hope this stuff will help someone somewhere along the way!!!

/