Reddish 500 EQ

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I think we are getting ours fedexed as “samples” and the shipping time will be much less than when normal shipping is arranged. Mine is Iin Shanghai already.
Awesome… I’ve started hunting around for the frequency switch. The BOM has an item number for the 1/8” shaft Grayhill. I think that this is the correct one

71BDF30-01-2-AJN​


The cheapest one I’ve found so far is $56. Is this correct? Its been years since I’ve done one of these group builds, so I’m relearning some resources etc.
 
Thanks for catching that. You are correct, the part number for the Frequency Select switch in the BOM was a 1/8" shaft. I've re-uploaded the BOM with the corrected part number.

If anyone has already ordered that one (the one starting with 71ADF30), your best option is to return it and get the correct part number. Agh, so sorry about that, I've gotten pretty good at reading the Grayhill 71 part numbers, but apparently not good enough.

@Volume11 yes, these switches are annoyingly pricey - they are the single highest cost component in the build, including the iron. I believe that this one will work and is not as expensive as what you're finding. Note that although Mouser lists it as "1 position," its part # alias (listed toward the bottom of Mouser's specs) is identical to the one we want and its index stops are listed as "adjustable." I believe it is the same switch.
 
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Great news, PCBs have arrived! I've given them a once-over and they look great.

Now, slightly less great news, I am going to be swamped with work all weekend, so I probably will not be able to start getting orders boxed up until early next week. But we are very close to having boards in hand!
 
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This place has
Thanks for catching that. You are correct, the part number for the Frequency Select switch in the BOM was a 1/8" shaft. I've re-uploaded the BOM with the corrected part number.

If anyone has already ordered that one (the one starting with 71ADF30), your best option is to return it and get the correct part number. Agh, so sorry about that, I've gotten pretty good at reading the Grayhill 71 part numbers, but apparently not good enough.

@Volume11 yes, these switches are annoyingly pricey - they are the single highest cost component in the build, including the iron. I believe that this one will work and is not as expensive as what you're finding. Note that although Mouser lists it as "1 position," its part # alias (listed toward the bottom of Mouser's specs) is identical to the one we want and its index stops are listed as "adjustable." I believe it is the same switch.
There's this place out of AZ. Maybe someone can organize a group purchase? You actually only need to order 5 for a significant discount.

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/grayhill/71bdf30012ajn-11456209.html

... and a little cheaper if you purchase through ebay (If you're buying 4 or less).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1756894345...uid=CfWlwLqISTe&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
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I think we are getting ours fedexed as “samples” and the shipping time will be much less than when normal shipping is arranged. Mine is Iin Shanghai already.
And they are here!!
Via FedEx and securely wrapped in tape and foam. Thanks “Faith Chen”.

(She must have remembered me from my amazing purchase of “100 15mm eq knobs in four colors” soon to be seen in the Black Market!)

These f feel nice and a little heavy. 👍
At first I thought they snoozed on the gray looking into the plastic, but it’s a nice dark color.
 

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@JMan
Did you stick to a specific voltage for the Wima caps? It looks like a tight fit.
I did not, and it shouldn't be too tight, but there are obviously some very large capacitors out there. For all of the caps in the Brilliance and Bass filter sections, stick to 13mm length by 4 or 5mm width (height shouldn't matter) and you'll be fine. The 6n8 caps can be a little wider, like 6mm. Of course, if you choose something smaller, that is not a problem either. Your caps should be rated at 50v or more, which should be easy if going with polypropylenes (likely you'll find lots rated in the hundreds of volts).

The only things to pay attention to otherwise are the caps in the Treble Boost (Hi +) section, which need to be smaller, like the FKP2 series at ~7x7mm; the DC filter caps on the OPA2134, which can be PET and should be 7.2x2.5mm, or you could probably get away with small ceramics/MLCCs as well; and the electrolytics, which should be 10mm diameter (or less).
 
It is certainly possible. Bear in mind that some folks may want to choose alternate capacitor types for the filter section, though (for example, Herbert built his pair of prototypes with all polystyrene caps). The BOM is attached to the first post, would you like to volunteer?
 
The big work weekend is over, and now I'm looking at another huge event over the next few days as well. I'm going to make it my goal to get all the orders packed up this evening so that as soon as I have a second to breathe, they are ready to be sent off. Apologies for the delay here, I didn't expect the timing to coincide with so much other stuff! To tide you over, I've attached a picture of what the v1.1 PCB set that you'll be receiving looks like.
 

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I ordered mostly Wima caps. If anyone wants to compare mouser carts, here's what I ordered for a pair of eq's. I usually order a couple extra quantities for spares. They were back ordered on relays, so I got them from ebay. I joined the group buy for the back ordered switches also. Knobs from Antique electronics supply.
Edit: so I just read above that I’ve got the wrong shaft sized switch that was in the original bom, so anyone looking here keep that in mind. I’ll have to return them.
 

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