Reddish 500 EQ

[Volume11]

That’s not a bad idea, I might do that. Thanks

 

[Kevin]

The metalwork production is finished. I will get the metalwork probably this or next week, will pack everything and ship as fast as possible.

 

[Volume11]

Awesome! Thanks for the update.

 

[Jase_Sanderson]

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to getting them

 

[janczmok]

Awesome. Looking forward to

 

[JMan]

I will be traveling for the next week and a half, but once I return I will be creating a build guide for the project. In the meantime, if anyone is forging ahead, I urge you to heed the part in my build notes about the input transformer spacing. I've just compared the UTM input xfmrs that I received yesterday to the one on my prototype, and the ones from the new batch are shorter. You can see in the photo attached. I don't imagine there is any problem from a function standpoint, but it does mean that you'll need to pay attention to how you are mounting the transformer (again, see the build notes) and not just blindly solder the right angle connectors.

 

[Kevin]

I will probably ship this week all metalwork and pcbs

 

[Volume11]

Thanks

 

[Kevin]

I shipped all the Metalwork And PCBs today
I have some extra Metalwork and PCB sets from JMan that i still can sell. If anyone is interested send me a message

 

[Freshkis]

I shipped all the Metalwork And PCBs today
I have some extra Metalwork and PCB sets from JMan that i still can sell. If anyone is interested send me a message

Hello Kevin
I've been reading here for a while and have never made a post. That's why I don't have permission to write PM's but would like to buy PCB's and metalwork for 2 units. As I understand, I can reply to PMs if you write me one.
Thank you.

 

[Kevin]

There's a issue with the Bracket that the holes are mirrored. I already got the confirmation that we will get new ones from my manufacturer. I will ship them on my own costs to everybody who already got the material shipped

 

[slipperyflax]

Is there anyone who's built these with other rotary switches?

 

[JMan]

I am not sure how well that would work. For better or worse, the board was created with the 71 series switches integrated into the design concept. Even if you manually wired all of the connections to an off-board rotary, it's hard to imagine how it would fit. Of course, if you were to put one or two channels into a 1RU chassis and add I/O connections and a power supply, then you could wire up any switch you wanted. But at that point, we're getting back into the territory of Ian's original, so... I know the Grayhills can be a pain if they aren't in stock (and they are fairly expensive), but in my humble estimation, the quality and feel are worth the trouble, which is why I designed the project with them in mind.

 

[slipperyflax]

I am not sure how well that would work. For better or worse, the board was created with the 71 series switches integrated into the design concept. Even if you manually wired all of the connections to an off-board rotary, it's hard to imagine how it would fit. Of course, if you were to put one or two channels into a 1RU chassis and add I/O connections and a power supply, then you could wire up any switch you wanted. But at that point, we're getting back into the territory of Ian's original, so... I know the Grayhills can be a pain if they aren't in stock (and they are fairly expensive), but in my humble estimation, the quality and feel are worth the trouble, which is why I designed the project with them in mind.

Yes, I wasn't too elaborate when I wrote my question but my thoughts were drawn towards the 1U racking option when I noticed that the availability was a bit low. So that's why I was curious whether someone already tried with other switches

 

[JMan]

If that's the direction you want to go, I say do it. The wiring will be tedious and you'll need to be very attentive to matching the pins correctly, but otherwise there is no reason that it wouldn't work. As for the rear, you'll just need the usual input and output XLRs and a +/-16vdc PSU - a basic LM317/337 circuit would be more than adequate. You'd also be able to take your pick of output transformers at that point, since you could mount it off board.

 

[janczmok]

Question: I am using the UTM's in the setup and would like to know whats the best values for the treble boost C24/C25 and R23/24 "music" wise ?

 

[JMan]

The choice of cap/resistor values in the treble boost section simply determines the amount of gain you will get on the 10kHz shelving boost when it is engaged, so it is really dependent on how you plan to use the unit. If you are building a pair and planning to primarily use them for the mix bus, for example, the default values of +2/+4 are probably best. If you anticipate using the unit on individual instruments or vocals, maybe a little more gain could prove useful in some cases. Alternatively, you could build it to have a low gain and high gain option, like +2/+8. Part of why I designed the boards with two sets of footprints and a shunt was so that I could still have a bit of flexibility despite the treble section being limited to a single boost-only pushbutton switch. I personally have found the +2/+4 options to work quite well for everything I've used it on (I believe mine is currently set to +4), but I suggest thinking about what sort of settings you typically find yourself using when employing a high shelf boost and using that as your guide. Ian's design is wonderful in that the unit itself sounds excellent on any setting, so the determining factor for "musicality" is really your own typical use case.

EDIT: just want to add to this that +2 is very subtle on most things. That's part of why I like it, it's just a very light lift without a really obvious crank. But if you are wanting to really "hear" the boost (if you understand what I mean), I'd say +4 should be your minimum starting point. That's just been my experience so far.

 

[JMan]

A quick update -- I've just completed a unit for another member here using the new boards, and I tried to take as many pictures as I could along the way. This means that I'll be able to start putting together a nice looking build guide now. The project is not terribly difficult and I'm not sure a full blown build guide is necessary, but I think it will be nice to have in the event that anyone is unsure of any step of the process. So look out for that in the coming weeks.

 

[Forcemusicgroup]

any update on the xformers and metal work? I do have the boards that look sweet. I'm out the loop. thanks

 

[janczmok]

The famous "one more" question: I bought the UTM3523LP, but it has a different wiring ?!?
It has Red/yellow/blue/green/orange/black but ordered it as custom, so i wonder if something is wrong here, or can be fixed ?