Volume11
Well-known member
Same, they look great. Getting started tomorrow 
Reddish 500 EQ
- Thread starter JMan
- Start date
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Volume11
Well-known member
Does anyone ever use this style of resistor? I bought a bunch of these on accident. Should I just use them, or hold off and purchase the blue ones that are more common?
Those resistors will work great. I can't tell how thick they are from the photo, they look a little fat, so I would place a couple on the board (without soldering) and make sure they don't get overly crowded. As long as that's the case, you're good to go.
Brian Roth
Well-known member
Those are MIL spec resistors...high quality! Check out the spec sheet linked below. I also like them because the values are actually printed on the body. The inexpensive 1% ones with the color stripes are usually difficult to read; "Is that a brown, red, or orange stripe? Which end of the resistor is the beginning when the value starts with 1/brown since the tolerance is also a brown stripe?" Yes...my eyeballs have excellent color acuity. It's the crummy paint used in manufacturing.
https://www.vishay.com/doc?31027
Bri
https://www.vishay.com/doc?31027
Bri
Volume11
Well-known member
Awesome, I’ll double check the size and give them a whirl! Thanks guys!
I also got all the boards for all non US orders. Metalwork is in the powder coating process. Soon will have news. PCBs without metalwork already shipped again.
Boards here!
materials to outlet
Active member
Got mine today too- exciting!
nielsk
Well-known member
Going through the posted Mouser BOM (only for the components I do not already have so not a complete list) and I have found a discrepancy.
The part listed for C3,7, & 23 is a .22uF, it should be .022uF. I found MKS2-.022/63/5t to work
The part listed for C3,7, & 23 is a .22uF, it should be .022uF. I found MKS2-.022/63/5t to work
Noted. Yes, should be 22nF (.022uF). I will update the BOM this afternoon when I am at home. Thank you for that catch!
nielsk
Well-known member
This is not in your build BOM, JMan (it is correct there), it is in the Mouser cart posted
Oh, got it, thank you for clarifying!
Thanks for Catching that error. I've updated the cart for future reference!
Volume11
Well-known member
For those who have ordered the Grayhills with the 1/8” shaft, it looks like CAPI now sells the bushing to convert them for 1/4” knobs.
You can consider a shaft adapter like that, but you'll still need to be sure that the nut is large enough to secure on the hole on the front panel. That would be my primary concern. I do not know the answer to this. I believe the 1/8" switch has a smaller bushing which might present a problem, but maybe not?
Volume11
Well-known member
Good point, I didn’t think of that.
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Volume11
Well-known member
So, unfortunately these resistors are too large. Do you guys have a go to brand that you prefer? I've used Vishay a lot in the past, so I was trying to stick with them, but I may just try some other brands. Also, which tolerance do you guys typically shoot for? Thanks!
Any good metal film resistor will work great. I tend to go for the Yageo brand on Mouser because they're very inexpensive. I'd go with 1% tolerance because honestly with standard metal film resistors being so affordable it seems silly to go with anything else.
Alternatively, if you already have those mil spec resistors in the correct values and they are only slightly too large, you could try placing them vertically in an alternating pattern, like the single-value inductors (L3-L9). That might save you the trouble and money of placing another order.
