SB4000 Support Thread

[bmaughan]

hey, i was wondering if anyone either knows where to find or something that can subsitute for the B32529C152J's (C28,C31,C36,C41) in the circuit...will any 1.5uf  63v polyester work?
Did anyone else have any issues tracking this part down?....no one has it

 

[Wembley]

Hi Ruckus,
About to wire up the power trafo (VTP36-1390 25VA, 36.0V @ 0.69A, 18V @1.38A parallel - as per ptownkid kit)) 1st project and have never done this before, sh*t scared of blowing myself up and damaging all the hard work. Can you give me some advice on wiring for 240V. At the moment, my understanding is:

Primary for 240V
1)  Brown to top pin on Power Switch
2)  Blue to N (Neutral) on IEC (Mouser 693-6200.2200 – ptwonkid kit)
3)  Wire (18awg) from centre pin on Power Switch to L (Live) on IEC
4)  Wire (18awg) from Earth on IEC to Star Ground
5)  Tie Grey and Purple together (solder, heatshrink etc…) and leave unconnected
6)  There are two smaller (reduced) pins on the IEC connected by a metal strip, think they are fuse links, but unsure?

Secondary
Black, Red, Orange & Yellow (Black closest to BR1).

Hope this will help others who may be finding this part of the project a little intimidating. The rest is fairly straight forward. Great setout/design too ruckus.

Cheers, Stuart

I am in the same boat as you.  There is a pretty detailed guide by Mnats for the 1176.  I really don't know how much this extrapolates over to the SB4000 but hopefully a lot.  Anyways, here is the link.

http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_power.html

 

[ruckus328]

Guys, will get to questions in the morning.  My head's going to pop if I don't get some sleep.

 

[sonic02]

thanks for the link, helps a bit. My switch is different though. Got the one with ptown kit.

Anyhow, have attached a diagram, this is what i'm understanding at the moment. Is this close to being right???

 

[sonic02]

 

[etheory]

This looks good aside from one important issue.

On the IEC socket, the "tab" you have drawn on the right hand side is the opposing side of the internal fuse in the IEC connector.
By doing the wiring described you are bypassing it.

Instead, run the L ( active power ) to the other L on your diagram.  That way L ( active ) goes into the IEC, through the fuse, and then straight to the power switch.

The rest is fine, except as per your wiring diagram I connected blue to active and brown to neutral, but I don't think that's particularly important.

 

[sonic02]

cheers Luke, thanks for your help. Have attacehd REV A with your changes. these ok, hope so. Dying to wire this thing up and run through some drum busses.

 

[sonic02]

sorry to be a complete newb at this sort of thing. The link posted by Wemberly - http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_power.html shows the connection made on the opposite side of the Metal Links (Fuse Links). Really confussed no!!!!!! ??? ??? ??? ???

 

[etheory]

Then you bought a different IEC socket to mine ;-)

Never to fear, there's an easy test to be done here.

Grab your multimeter and test for conductance between the active pin on the outside of the IEC socket ( the side the cable plugs in to ) and the place you current have soldered the brown wire to ( which in your case I'll bet is L ( active ) ).

How you have it currently with the fuse installed, it should give you a reassuring beep of conductance.

If you pull the fuse from the IEC, it should not longer have conductance.

If this is true, then you are OK.

 

[Wembley]

Sonic02 - if you have bought the IEC off the Mouser list, we have the same one.  If you look really closely you can see the ground symbol on the black plastic on the back.  The symbol is right behind the pin that you would think, i.e., the ground pin.  There are also the letters "L" and "N" as in the Mnats guide.  Or you could use etheory's approach.  It worked for me as well.

 

[ruckus328]

Guys, don't use other people's IEC pics as your guide, they will all be different.  Whatever brand you have, it will be marked on the connector which pins are what - Line (L), Neutral (N), and Ground.  Ground goes to star ground on the chassis.  Line and neutral should be wired to the primary side of your toroid transfomer (follow the instructions that come with your transformer for how to connect the wires for either 115 or 230).

You don't want to connect the Line (L) directly to the toroid though, you want to bring it to your panel switch, and then run a wire from the switch to the toroid.  This will allow you to break the Line (L) connection (aka turn the unit off).

 

[ruckus328]

cheers Luke, thanks for your help. Have attacehd REV A with your changes. these ok, hope so. Dying to wire this thing up and run through some drum busses.

Your diagram looks good (for 230V connection only), this is not how you would wire the transformer for 115V.

One recommendation (just to avoid any potential confusion from someone else reffering to this pic) - would probably be a good idea to change your "green" wire going to Line to Blue as well.  Green is international standard color for ground, so someone might mistake this for a ground connection.  Other than that, looks good.

 

[ruckus328]

hey, i was wondering if anyone either knows where to find or something that can subsitute for the B32529C152J's (C28,C31,C36,C41) in the circuit...will any 1.5uf  63v polyester work?
Did anyone else have any issues tracking this part down?....no one has it

any 1.5nF polyester, 50V or higher, .2" (5mm) lead spacing will work fine.  Just make sure the physical dimensions aren't so big that it doesn't fit in the board.  The same applies to any of the other film caps.

 

[etheory]

I just updated this post http://www.evolutionarytheory.com/2011/08/sb4000-bus-compressor-demo-audio/ on my blog with some nice bouncing VU meter images.... enjoy

 

[Neil]

Alright, finally got time to put some audio through mine after calibrating her and I'm very happy to say it's working and sounding great!!! I ran some rough mixes through it on the 2-bus and it definitely has glue and then some! For a medium dense rock mix a ratio 4, attack 10, auto release, HPF 90 or so and GR of 2-4 db REALLY gelled things nicely. Mike I can't thank you enough man for a great project that was very easy to build!! And props to PTown too for getting the kits together through some rough times, you guys both rock!! 

...now I just need a Send'N'Blend! 

 

[etheory]

Hey, that reminds me....  On the build PDF I REALLY like the choice of knobs.  Can someone please let me know the part numbers for the two different knobs types used in that PDF?  Cause I've tried to find them but can't find them on element14 in Aus.  Obviously I need 4xSwitch type knobs and 2xPotentiometer type knobs.

regards,

Luke

 

[minor_glitch]

Hey everyone,  here's my complete collection of build photos:

http://paulmantiniaudio.blogspot.com/2011/06/sb4000-build-part-1.html
http://paulmantiniaudio.blogspot.com/2011/06/sb4000-build-part-2.html
http://paulmantiniaudio.blogspot.com/2011/06/sb4000-build-part-3.html
http://paulmantiniaudio.blogspot.com/2011/08/sb4000-build-part-4.html
http://paulmantiniaudio.blogspot.com/2011/08/sb4000-build-epilogue.html

Enjoy!

 

[etheory]

Great build, well done!  Love the large number of photos of the finished product!

 

[minor_glitch]

Great build, well done!  Love the large number of photos of the finished product!

Thanks!  Hopefully the photos will help people avoid some of the silly mistakes I made along the way.

 

[ruckus328]

etheory & minor_glitch, awsome job.  If it's ok with you two I'd like to put links to your pages at the beginning of the thread.

etheroy - I'll see if I can track down the part number for those knobs tomorrow.