SB4000 Support Thread

[band_master]

yes the part number on row 90 is correct, however the part number in row 150 under 'upgrades' is a 1K pot instead of 10K. I 'upgraded' myself into some trouble!

Quote from: band_master on Today at 02:53:03 am
so i discovered that the excel version of the bom has the wrong mouser part number 3266W-1-102LF for VR5,VR7,VR8, and VR10.

it is a 1K trimmer instead of a 10K...i think the actual mouser part number should be 652-3266W-1-103LF? we'll see if that works.

You may be working from an old version of the BOM?  I just checked the excel BOM, and the part number listed is:


652-3306F-1-103 

Which is the 10k trimpot.

Mike

 

[miketeachesclass]

yes the part number on row 90 is correct, however the part number in row 150 under 'upgrades' is a 1K pot instead of 10K. I 'upgraded' myself into some trouble!

Quote from: band_master on Today at 02:53:03 am
so i discovered that the excel version of the bom has the wrong mouser part number 3266W-1-102LF for VR5,VR7,VR8, and VR10.

it is a 1K trimmer instead of a 10K...i think the actual mouser part number should be 652-3266W-1-103LF? we'll see if that works.

You may be working from an old version of the BOM?  I just checked the excel BOM, and the part number listed is:


652-3306F-1-103 

Which is the 10k trimpot.

Mike

Ah!  I see, now!

 

[mica]

hmm..
How do I identify which is A, K, NO, C on the switches?
There's one top, one bottom, and three in a row center:

Im having a hard time figuring out how to hook them up to the main PCB..

/Michael

 

[wave]

hmm..
How do I identify which is A, K, NO, C on the switches?
There's one top, one bottom, and three in a row center:

Im having a hard time figuring out how to hook them up to the main PCB..

/Michael

I had the same problem. I used my DMM in continuity mode.
"K" is the top and "A" is the bottom (at least on mine)

Dave

 

[sr1200]

If i recall... they're marked + and - arent they?

 

[druu]

Spec sheet helped me.

 

[Neil]

Data sheets are your friend.

 

[mica]

Its probably just me, but i dont think the datasheet told me anything?

http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/kbilluminated.pdf

In very small writing it says - on top and + on bottom.. How does that translate to A/K/C/NO..

On the main PCB i need to hook up 4 wires from each switch right? So.. + and - and two of the 3 center terminals?

(I have the two switches from the BOM from Mouser)

 

[wave]

Its probably just me, but i dont think the datasheet told me anything?

http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/kbilluminated.pdf

In very small writing it says - on top and + on bottom.. How does that translate to A/K/C/NO..

On the main PCB i need to hook up 4 wires from each switch right? So.. + and - and two of the 3 center terminals?

(I have the two switches from the BOM from Mouser)

Basically you have an SPDT switch with an LED. I said to use the meter because you can see which outside pin is connected to the center pin with the switch depressed. So it does matter which outside pin you connect to. If you connect to the wrong one, the circuit will be closed when the switch is not engaged. You want the circuit to be closed when you push it (i.e. compression in when the compressor switch is pushed).
Using you meter you would connect a lead to the center pin and probe the outside pins. When you get continuity with the switch depressed, then you know which pins to use.
For these switches it actually doesn't matter which leads go to the "NO" and "C" terminals on the PCB just that you use the correct 2 pins of the switch.
Sometimes it does matter where the leads go so it's a better practice to know how your current is flowing through the switch hence the testing with the meter.
I know you just want to hook it up so here is a diagram.

Dave

 

[Harpo]

From your NKKswitch link have a look at page D26 or D28 for your +/- terminals and how these correspond to the Anode and Kathode side of the LED inside the switch.
From your 3 center terminals the switches Common pole is its center pin 2. The NormallyOpen throw position is pin 1, the NormallyConnected throw position is pin 3.


uups, Dave got it faster

 

[mica]

Wow that was quick, and very detailed! Thanks guys!



/Michael

 

[wave]

From your NKKswitch link have a look at page D26 or D28 for your +/- terminals and how these correspond to the Anode and Kathode side of the LED inside the switch.
From your 3 center terminals the switches Common pole is its center pin 2. The NormallyOpen throw position is pin 1, the NormallyConnected throw position is pin 3.


uups, Dave got it faster

Nice Harpo! I like how you explained with the datasheet. Before the SB4000 I never looked at them but now I refer to them even in the part sourcing stage.
They are your friend

Dave

 

[druu]

Anyone have issues with the hairball meter needle getting stuck at 0? I have a feeling i overtightened it. :s It's now loose but still sticks occasionally.

 

[sr1200]

may be getting stuck on the plastic display card thing.  make sure its in flat

 

[sr1200]

So I m thinking i finished #3 a couple nights ago, but alas something has gone terribly wrong.  Power supply has correct voltage, unit passes audio with compression in and out.  Threshold pot does NOTHING.  I thought perhaps there was a problem with the main board, so i took one of the boards out of one of my working units and swapped it out, and still have the same issue, so I have to assume the problem is on the control board somewhere.  I checked and didn't see any problems with the soldering, diodes are in the right way as are the tant caps.  If i measure the resistance on the pot, that seems to give the expected results, i do have to check to see what the voltage is on the board tonight (after reading some other posts)  Anything else anyone can think of as to why this might be happening?

 

[druu]

47k or jump?

 

[jandoste]

47k or jump?

jump!
cheers,

 

[druu]

^Yup, was seeing if sr1200 had done that, possible solution to his issue.

 

[sr1200]

Yep, i had the jumper in there, I did find the issue late last night, ONE wire on the ribbon cable wasnt making contact, i put the ribbon cable back in the press and voila everything works perfect... knew it had to be something stupid.

 

[sr1200]

So shes all good now, using the RMAA software (and a huge fight with win 7) i got the THD to 0.0078 is that good?