Sontec Website

[BR]

Another rather stupid question:

in a dual concentric pot. Is the "ring" (bottom) shaft affecting the front or back pot?? Depending on the answer, I may have to change those traces around, because I want Shape to be on the ring and Gain on the top.
please let me know....

thanks
Gil

 

[nrgrecording]

[quote author="BR"]Another rather stupid question:
in a dual concentric pot. Is the "ring" (bottom) shaft affecting the front or back pot?? Depending on the answer, I may have to change those traces around, because I want Shape to be on the ring and Gain on the top.
please let me know....
[/quote]

Thats not a stupid question. It depends on the manufacturer - or the design how the pot is build.
Omegs:
External spindle can only drive the sections 1 and 2
(but its not possible that the external spindel can drive sections 2 and 3)

Radiohms:
External spindle can either drive sections 1 and 2 or 2 and 3. Just what you like.

Piher:
I think they're the same than the radiohms but dunno exactly.


Omegs:
(10 pieces minimum order)

Radiohms:
(100 pieces minimum order)

Regards,
Frank.

 

[BR]

Alright..
here is the no DOA version of the board.
Very small.. the dots are the grid which are set at 0.1".

let me know what you guys think..

 

[BR]

Thanks Frank,

I'll have to contact them to find out, because I could find any info on their website about this. Which I thought was very strange.

 

[nrgrecording]

[quote author="BR"]Thanks Frank,

I'll have to contact them to find out, because I could find any info on their website about this. Which I thought was very strange.[/quote]

Thats right. Just ask Margaret from omeg. (margaretg @ omeg.co.uk) She's very helpful.

For a sontec type eq something like this could fit:

Center detent Level Pot:

PS20BU 47KA CENTER INDENT.BUSH CP 7MM
SPINDLE F1= <enter your spindle lenght here> mm

Price was around 1.71 gbp

Dual Pot 2x100K neg log and 4,7k shape/Q

PC3C20BU 100KC X 100KC-FRONT-6MM TUBE X
4K7-REAR-4mm SPINDLE . BUSH CP 7MM
L1=<enter your spindle lenght here>mm NO FLAT L2=<enter your spindle lenght here>mm NO SLOT

Price was around 5.57 gbp

Frank.

 

[BR]

Cool,

I just emailed Margaret and hopefully she will get back to me soon.

But since I have a good feeling that the external spindle moves the first stack, I went ahead and changed the traces on the design.
You guys can notice it on the previous posts.

let me know what you guys think..

 

[drpat]

....

 

[BR]

I just realized what you said about the ribon.

I'll see if I can switch for that. I'm not sure if they have one in ExpressPCB. but if not, I'll find one in Mouse or Digikey and make it.
That is a great idea. Only one header on the main board and ribon on the filter boards... :thumb:
I guess that is why they pay you the big ones..

:green:

 

[drpat]

[quote author="BR"]
I guess that is why they pay you the big ones..

:green:[/quote]

I actually get paid the big ones to mix records. This is just a great way to keep the TV off at night after the strippers leave :grin:

 

[drpat]

...

 

[drpat]

...

 

[SALSA]

Speechless ... almost

Maybe a good idea to include common mode offset reduction capacitors for the balanced output driver (SSM2142, DRV134, THAT1646).

Nice work !

Cheers,

Mike

 

[drpat]

...

 

[BR]

Patrick... you make me sick :grin: In a good way.

That amp board looks great.

That is exactly the type of input that I was looking for.

I already changed the position on the trim pot and re-uploaded the file. so you can see it above. Is that what you meant. But haven't worked on anything else you mentioned. I'll see if I can do that tonight or so. Specially the lead spacing issues that you mentioned.

Pardon the ignorance, but what do you mean by adding a TP1 and TP2 for the bias??

Also, I really like your idea about the ribbon cable. It would make it very easy for people to use as many filters as they want. Would you mind finding a good pc mount connector that we could use in both boards?? The ones in the ExpressPCB library are huge. Almost 1/4 of the current board size.


Anyways, I just decided to go ahead and do multiple LS for those caps. Take a look on the thread above and let me know if that will work.

peace
Gil

 

[drpat]

...

 

[BR]

Patrick,

There needs to be two test points (to attach your meter to) across C27 to adjust the bias. The edge of the card, by the bias trim, would be the ideal place for this.

When you say across you mean one point in the positive and one in the negative legs of the cap right? (sorry for the stupid question)

That's a perfect spot for it Heck Yeah! We just need to make sure that the trimmer adjustment, points to the left, towards the edge of the board, for easy adjustment. You may have to rotate this 90 degrees. Not sure though.

I left it like that because if you mount the board on the front panel it would be easier to trim from the top.


By the way, I just heard from Omeg and here are the prices for some of the pots:

Freq - Dual 100k revlog - $2.80 USD (1.43 gb)
Level/shape - Dual concentric 50k/5k w/ center indent for Level - $4.70 USD (2.48 gb)

Now I'm getting the quote for the individual pots for Level and shape.

What do you guys think?? I may organize a group buy for these. Specially if we have these boards made.

take care
Gil

 

[Svart]

I barely skimmed over this thread, what are the new PCB files for? is it a remake of the sontec clone?

Svart once planned to do so, but I guess that's not done yet. It's surely not a drop-in replacement, considering the DC offset.

Actually i think they are fairly good at replacements, the originals were currentfeedback if I remember correctly. somewhere along the lines of 200-600v/us and CFB is what I remember reading but for some reason I can't find the source. It was listed in another forum where the original designer mentioned these facts after complaining a bit about cloning.

I'm still working on mine, very slowly. once I get the front panel in it should go much quicker.

 

[drpat]

....

 

[drpat]

...

 

[Svart]

All good!

However I have a few points to bring up,

as this is really meant to be a mastering unit, would there be any point in any voltage rails other than +/-24? Other than that, a simple regulator change would be easy as well. I don't see myself changing voltages during normal usage but maybe others will?

I've read a lot about that original opamp, from what I read, most of the parts had their model #s filed off as well as being potted and the parts were color coded to boot. Seems I remember someone finding out a few of the parts were long since discontinued too.

The only thing that I would ask would be to make the boards as physically small as possible which would aid in their mounting.