All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[gswan]

LED meter lamps are even easier. Just pick a series resistor for a current of 10-20mA for whatever DC voltage you feed into them. So if there are 4 LEDs and you have 37VDC, use something around 2K in series with the LED string.

 

[btproductionsaustralia]

Hey all,

anyone know of anywhere/anyone I could source stickers for a 1176 front panel from?

THanks

ben

 

[gyraf]

what stickers?

 

[btproductionsaustralia]

Gyraf,

I mean is there anyone out there who has made/seen stickers that could be used to mark the ratios/buttons etc, like little stickers with numbers/ratios on them? 

I don't have an engraver, and I don't want to send the panel away, having finally got it all workin!!

I know it's an odd request?

ben

 

[JoleFIN]

You could try Safmat film, but it's working somewhat well only if your panel is totally solid (ie. not sand blown aluminium) and if it's white/aluminium. Safmat can give this kind of results http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=33223.0

If your panel is black already, then maybe give it a run with an A4 size printable sticker paper and cut out the stickers you need. Not beautiful but it's DIY

 

[JoleFIN]

LED meter lamps are even easier. Just pick a series resistor for a current of 10-20mA for whatever DC voltage you feed into them. So if there are 4 LEDs and you have 37VDC, use something around 2K in series with the LED string.

I shopped today for 3 pieces of 14V lamps, installed them in series now and this worked out ok. Now I can see the unit is ON Maybe I'll change them into a bunch of leds in the future. The 'high' AC voltages read by my multimeter still give me an uncomfortable 'wtf is this' feeling.

Anyhows, thought about to grab the bull from the balls and plugged in the tl071 chip - everything's cool and no need to call in the fire dept to air-vent the block. Going to wire the Lorlins now for a test run, and later on switch to push buttons when I get them. Hope this will run smooth from now on, fingers crossed

-J

 

[JoleFIN]

Yeah audio passing through and there is the huge gain everyone is talking about Just can't get any actual compression done... I haven't installed the meter board + switch yet since I don't have the VU, so it's in bypass mode "by default"? Input and output pots work fine and ratio pot has some sort of effect on the level though.

edit: gain as in the output gain, not comp as mentioned. Got the meter + bypass knob test wired now and seems like we got some compression here Still waiting for the Hairball pack to get to finetune the trimmers.

 

[SIXTYNINER]

HI to everybody,
1-
i'm checking some G1176 bom list (by gyraf,by greg,ecc)
found a resistor 1k1 , in the main pcb , it show 1w on the right side
but nothing mentioned in any bom list,

please someone can confirm 1w value?

2-
near input transformer option place i see 2 resistors:  *10k
please why this symbol: *    ?
they are to fit as an option or default?

3-
there is some link that explain how make a Gyraf stereo G1176  ? (no mnats rev)
thanks in advance to who give info
have anice beer...
6T9R

 

[mokkinger]

HI to everybody,
1-
i'm checking some G1176 bom list (by gyraf,by greg,ecc)
found a resistor 1k1 , in the main pcb , it show 1w on the right side
but nothing mentioned in any bom list,

please someone can confirm 1w value?

I used standard metall 1/4 W resistors, and they work fine. Nothing special needed IMHO

2-
near input transformer option place i see 2 resistors:  *10k
please why this symbol: *    ?
they are to fit as an option or default?

These have to be 12k if you plan to use Lundahl input transformers, if you use the OEPs take the 10k
check makos site for more information on that point...

3-
there is some link that explain how make a Gyraf stereo G1176  ? (no mnats rev)
thanks in advance to who give info
have anice beer...
6T9R

As I have only Mnats Revisions I can´t tell... Makos boards have a Stereo interconnection pad... but should be mentioned on jacobs site, no?

 

[JoleFIN]

6T9R,

1. Get a carbon (not metal film) resistor just to be sure. Go mainly with http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/1176_bom.html and add the missing parts such as case+power connector+etc from Gyraf's BOM and you're good to go.

2. The resistors were optional in case you use Lundahl.. other than that all the * marked are optional. I went with OEPs in 2:1 "wiring" and without these resistors, could someone confirm I got it right this way?

3. Don't know about this... but it doesn't matter since I don't drink beer, or alcohol at all.  8) (must be the reason why I'm a bad DIYer.)

 

[mokkinger]

What could happen to the metal film resistor? could they blow up even if the unit is working fine - should I still change this one into a carbon one?
they don´t affect the sound anyway, don´t they?

thanks guys,
mark

 

[guitarguy12387]

I'm still looking for some troubleshooting help... i have no idea where to begin. I built two G1176's a few months ago. They were working great! But i turned one on one today (i hadn't used it in a few months) and i had no low frequency response. It sounded like a high pass filter at about 2khz or so. I just pulled the top off and all looks ok. That is, all the connections look good, no shorts or disconnections that i can see. Nothing looks burned out or anything like that. Anybody have any ideas where i should look to find the issues? Should i look at caps? Transformers? Transistors? IC's? PSU parts?...

Thanks in advance.

FYI, these are MNats Rev. J boards with lundahls.

 

[penguin]

from reading all 1176 rev D posts,
stereo linking 1176s seems, is  only linking pin 7 on both boards, with switch (optional)

so, where C22 meets R65, and thus connected to release pot 5M, =  pin 7, on rev D

but what i dont understand is, does it needs to be shielded cable...  if so,
which end/ends needs to be connected to earth....?

EDIT:  rev J if you look very closely in to the middle of the PCB, you will see interconnect pin, with arrow mark,
which is connected to pin 7...

 

[Harpo]

HI to everybody,
1-
i'm checking some G1176 bom list (by gyraf,by greg,ecc)
found a resistor 1k1 , in the main pcb , it show 1w on the right side
but nothing mentioned in any bom list,

please someone can confirm 1w value?

This resistor is located between adj. and out of the 7824 voltage regulator. Using ohms law (24V^2/1100=0.52W) you better get a 1W type.

 

[Kingston]

it's somewhat hard to find item, so two standard 0.6W 2.2K resistors (cheap and available everywhere) in parallel works equally well.

 

[btproductionsaustralia]

So here it is, my first DIY build: Mnats rev J 1167 

Balanced in, OEP out... I have done my first demo's with acoustic guitar and vox using with my TL audio pre and I'm loving the results...

A HUGE thanks to all who helped, especially GSwan for answering my MANY dumb questions and to Rob for helping put the finishing touches...

 

[btproductionsaustralia]

and here is the inside...

 

[JoleFIN]

Does anyone have a layout point-to-point instruction for pushbuttons, alike the Gyraf's layout for rotary switches? http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/1176/1176.pdf

Would be really helpful!!! And it would spare the rest of the hair that I still have on my head.

I have everything else connected, dunno if they are alright though, but things that I still have to connect are :
-Point 15. on the Mnats main PCB
-Point 15. on the Hairball pushbutton board
-Lug on one of the pots for connecting to point 15.
.... so which one goes where and through what?


And the whole innards of my 1176 at the moment look like something a cat pooped out last weekend with diarrhoea. The intention was to make it tidy and pretty, as always. I think I will need to rewire the whole package one more time. Will do that the next time I have the time to wrestle with it over the whole weekend. Frustration is not a word to describe this scale of emotion.

 

[Echo North]

I have everything else connected, dunno if they are alright though, but things that I still have to connect are :
-Point 15. on the Mnats main PCB
-Point 15. on the Hairball pushbutton board
-Lug on one of the pots for connecting to point 15.
.... so which one goes where and through what?

Check out Skylar's D wiring guide here:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=20058.msg381734#msg381734

The pad 15/output pot wiring should be the same for the G1176.

Mike

 

[JoleFIN]

If I remember everything as it is, I got the wirings done right (except for the missing pad 15 connections). Will need to recheck everything carefully and rewire some of the ugliest wires, probably some unshielded wires need to be shielded instead  and so on.

Thanks Mike, this sorted it out I believe!

And I'm glad to have some hair left on my head for yet another diy project in future. *grin*