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Anyone could give me a clue on this...i havent take a look really deep but 1 of my 1176 Slam mode wont work....??
works fine other way..
 
Can someone draw the wiring of Mnats Rev F + Hairball Pushbuttons for me???

###1. I have the input pot still unwired, where do the wires go?

The pot pins from the backside, where do I connect these?
____
ı O  ı
ı___ı
ı  ı  ı
1 2 3


###2. Also, where do I connect the "Attack Pot (GRN)" on the ratio board?

###3. And what do the "GRN" and "BLK" stand for on the Hairball board wiring guide?

Hope I won't need to try to enter the dumbest-question-of-the-year awards after this is done. Feeling VERY tired and frustrated at the moment, cannot think anything straight, even the simplest things seem ridiculously impossible to understand, so maybe I'll have a 12 hour nap right now.
 
You probably need to step away for a day...clear your head.


JoleFIN said:
Can someone draw the wiring of Mnats Rev F + Hairball Pushbuttons for me???

Do you have the .pdf I send with my boards?

JoleFIN said:
###1. I have the input pot still unwired, where do the wires go?

The pot pins from the backside, where do I connect these?
____
ı O  ı
ı___ı
ı  ı  ı
1 2 3

http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/1176-wiring.html

JoleFIN said:
###2. Also, where do I connect the "Attack Pot (GRN)" on the ratio board?

To wherever your GR disable switch is.  Either the switch on your attack pot or the bottom switch on your meter board.

JoleFIN said:
###3. And what do the "GRN" and "BLK" stand for on the Hairball board wiring guide?

BLK is ground.  Your GR disable will have BLK, GRN and 22.  22 is the common, when 22 is switched to GRN your GR is ENABLED.  When 22 is switched to BLK your GR is DISABLED.

Mike
 
Echo North said:
You probably need to step away for a day...clear your head.

True.. I just stepped away for a week but it didn't seem to help, my head is still stuck. I think it's the dayjob and 4am wake-ups, feeling very stressed and frustrated at the moment while trying to get this 99% finished project off from the work desk finally, so I could concentrate on music and everything else. It makes me obsessed and gives almost a "claustrophobic" feeling to not have it done. I know it's a matter of some simple things but I just can't get my head straight about them, often find myself thinking just blank emptiness lately. Next week is also 4am every morning, so I think next weekend is out of question also for anything constructive... I fought the way today though to get the wirings done and I feel a lot better about it due to this!


Echo North said:
Do you have the .pdf I send with my boards?

The printed sheets? Yes.. and just realized I hadn't taken a look on the alternative wiring at all since I wanted to go in the original way, and noticed the meter board's last pads should be used for bypassing the unit since I don't have the attack pot with the SPDT(?) switching. Currently I have wired the secondaries through the last switch to power off the unit (too scared to put primaries go through it :)) but realized I'll be switching it off with the overall rack's power-rail mains switch anyways, so there..

Thanks for the help! I'll rewire the bypass for GR next time.

I also need to adjust the meter but in the hurry couldn't find a straight forward instruction for the mnats rev J board. Do I need to touch anything else than the Q Bias and Meter Tracking trimmers? Need to take a deeper look on this while on it..

EDIT: I should read more.. something like the mnats website for example, regarding the changing of the OEP ratios..

EDIT 2 : The XLRs for Purusha cases are Neutrik D series XLRs, if someone else is wondering this.
 
Finally it's all together and I really like it on vocals :)

EDIT : I'm not sure if I got the meter calibrated correctly though. The needle isn't jumping much (maybe halfway) in the GR mode even though I push it to the max with inputs hot. I've done the Q Bias calibration, are the other calibrations needed since it is Mnats Rev J board?

What do the Zero Adjust, Dist Trim and Tracking Adjust trimmers do exactly?
 
Hello all,
    Can some on e help me with a question I have asked before. I designed and built my own 1176 pcb's with the OEP trannie being fed by an attenuator. I am done with the unit and am very pleased but would there be any difference in sound in wiring the input trannie series or parallel. I asked this before and rodabod said "Wired in series, you should get more primary inductance which is a good thing to aim for with these OEP transformers".  So, i wired in series. I know it is a stupid question but does anyone know if there is a difference in sound between the two wiring? Parallel 600:150 and series 2400:600. And if there is an audible difference what is the result?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Thanks Mark, the meter is now at least working in a more useful range! :)

I didn't get the GR meter tracking done right though.. the startup settings say "Output fully CW", but line #5 says "Turn the output level control CW until the meter reads 0VU", so I was wondering which one should be stated "CCW" (obviously there's a bug here?). Couldn't get a proper -10dB drop with the calibration when turning GR ON/OFF, the tracking trimmer run out of range first. Because I've built it on the Mnats Rev J board, is this part even neccessary? I tuned the tracking to CW and the zero adjust to -10dB when feeding it with -10dB 1khz sine signal and I'm happy with what the meter gives me when limiting material. Maybe will give a shot on rev A or D next time, for this one already sounds great together with Manley Reference 8)
 
i was wondering  ;D
just to get the color of 1176LN can i eliminate GR and meter circuit and just use below part of the circuit... and use Igor's relay bypass...
use the input attenuator  and output pot to control the amount of drive.... or even set them for unity gain with fixed values...
or would i need to drive the GR circuit to get the actual color of 1176
thank you
kam

1176lineonly.jpg


from revD mnats documents




 
JoleFIN said:
Thanks Mark, the meter is now at least working in a more useful range! :)

I didn't get the GR meter tracking done right though.. the startup settings say "Output fully CW", but line #5 says "Turn the output level control CW until the meter reads 0VU", so I was wondering which one should be stated "CCW" (obviously there's a bug here?). Couldn't get a proper -10dB drop with the calibration when turning GR ON/OFF, the tracking trimmer run out of range first. Because I've built it on the Mnats Rev J board, is this part even neccessary? I tuned the tracking to CW and the zero adjust to -10dB when feeding it with -10dB 1khz sine signal and I'm happy with what the meter gives me when limiting material.

Yes, that refers to the ability to turn off gain reduction on the original unit by turning the Attack pot to the off position. If you haven't incorporated the switched pot into your build, you must disable gain reduction by using another method. You must short pad 22 on the main PCB to ground to disable GR.

The video on MNATS Rev D site details how to do the calibration.

http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/1176_revision_d#videos

Mark
 
Biasrocks said:
Yes, that refers to the ability to turn off gain reduction on the original unit by turning the Attack pot to the off position. If you haven't incorporated the switched pot into your build, you must disable gain reduction by using another method. You must short pad 22 on the main PCB to ground to disable GR.

Since I've used alternate wiring for the meter push buttons I can disable the GR with the OFF button (the unit is always powered, I have a main switch for all gear at the moment but will get a separate switch for this part of rack), so it's no problem.. but it doesn't give the -10dB drop when I turn the GR ON/OFF.

I was also wondering should the meter needle start from 0dB and turn downwards when limiting in GR meter mode? Now it's running like in VU mode, but naturally showing the amount of gain reduction instead.
 
JoleFIN said:
Since I've used alternate wiring for the meter push buttons I can disable the GR with the OFF button (the unit is always powered, I have a main switch for all gear at the moment but will get a separate switch for this part of rack), so it's no problem.. but it doesn't give the -10dB drop when I turn the GR ON/OFF.

I was also wondering should the meter needle start from 0dB and turn downwards when limiting in GR meter mode? Now it's running like in VU mode, but naturally showing the amount of gain reduction instead.

Right, doesn't the OFF position simply disable the meter? You may want to verify that it's grounding PAD 22 and leaving the meter active, if not you will have to manually ground pad 22 using a piece of wire with alligator clips or a toggle switch installed on the front panel.

The meter should display 0VU when there is no gain reduction and travel down to show gain reduction, sounds like your meter is not operating correctly.

Mark

 
Biasrocks said:
Right, doesn't the OFF position simply disable the meter?

Yes, unless I push two buttons down at once (ie. OFF + GR)... this does the trick (or shouldn't it?). I've checked these wirings over and over before, but I think I will take one more look on them, I'm sure the pad 22 connects to ground with OFF switch pressed though.

The behavior of the GR mode is peculiar, I wonder what could cause the meter to work the wrong way around?
 
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