All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[imo]

That link should take you to a pic that shows the cables. your power comes through the receptacle, in to your switch, which then comes to the black/purple wire. The red/yellow wire connects to the neutral of your receptacle. On the secondary side you should have 3 wires after you tie the 2 middle wires together. They connect to the 24-0-24 marks by the power supply: blue to "24v", middle two to "0", and the green to "24v". Obviously it is important that these connections are solid and that there is no connection between 24v and 0(your board ground). I would suggest going to Mnats site and downloading his wiring diagrams. Read them thoroughly and follow his instructions to build up and check the power supply section first. That way you know you have a solid start and then just be really careful with component placement
Ian

 

[jeroddumas]

I gotta get my 1176 running. Anyone see any problems with this transformer.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/TX-4806/790500/XFORMER,_48_VCT_"#64;_0.63_AMPS_.html.

 

[JRE Productions]

Jerodumas I just order two toroids from Avel Lindahl factory. Exactly what I needed with mounting hardware. $18 each. I posted a little blurb on the part number in the black market.

 

[JRE Productions]

[quote author="JRE Productions"]On the power supply sections there is a 1100 ohm 1 watt resistor. I had a 1k 3 watt resistor in my supplies. Is that ok to replace the 1.1k with 1k?

Thanks,

Joe[/quote]

Can anyone help me on this?

 

[imo]

I posted a few days ago about threshold and wondering how to tame the levels a bit, more clean signal. HAdn't heard anything, but was wondering if there were any ideas regarding these voltages in reference to this.
Q8:E 14.1
B 14.7
C 30.4
Q9:E 14
C 0
B 13. 4
Q6: E 29.1
B 28.5
C 14.7
Q7: E 29.8
B 29.1
C 14.7

According to Gyraf's scematics everything is dead on until the base of Q8 and Q9, which are both being fed by the collectors of Q6 and Q7. These are the BC 560's. I am basically off by a little more than .6v from the collectors of the 560's on. I don't know how significant this is, and if i should replaced these? The output voltage is 14.1, .7 high.
Any information would be great
Thanks
Ian

 

[ChrioN]

Question 1: My resistor R67 is 31.75Kohm. It should be 38.3Kohm. Should I replace it, or is it not that critical enough?

Question 2: Can R87 be 1Kohm instead of 1.1Kohm?

 

[gyraf]

Q1: not critical.
Q2: you NEED 1K1 here. Do a search to find out why.

Jakob E.

 

[ChrioN]

Allright. How about 0.6W? Cant find 1.1k 1W...

 

[JRE Productions]

[quote author="gyraf"]Q1: not critical.
Q2: you NEED 1K1 here. Do a search to find out why.

Jakob E.[/quote]

Jakob, I searched all 55 pages, plus 20 other posts. They only thing I can find on the 1k1 resistor is that you need a 1k1 and not why. I would like to understand why. If you have time to re-explain this I would appreciate it.

I have a box full of 1k 5% 3 watters. Can I go through them and find one that is @ 1k1 and use it?

Joe

 

[enthalpystudios]

Anyone ever use a different output transformer? I'm using the gustav boards..... wondering if I can use a stancor wf30 (utc a20 clone) on the output...... Basically, I have everything but the output transformers to build two, and I'd really like to build em.....

billy

 

[gyraf]

Why not just try it?

 

[ChrioN]

I would suggest an update to the pcb layout of the 1176, either one 100R and one 1Kohm in serie, or 2 in parallel = 1.1Kohm.

 

[enthalpystudios]

sounds good jakob, i think i will ;]

unkown territory, again......

i'm going to guess that I may need to change a couple resistors and caps?

it's 600:600, but can be wired for quite a few ratios. i think 50, 150, 300, 600 each side.

I'm just not sure if I'll be able to get the gain out of it.

billy

edit: i think jakob was talking to the guy ahead of my previous post, regarding the 1k1 resistor situation... pay no mind to my newb banter

 

[imo]

I think the 1.1 being 1w as opposed to the 1/4w on the rest of the board would be the major difference and probably makes it easier to just have the one

 

[erland]

That link should take you to a pic that shows the cables. your power comes through the receptacle, in to your switch,

The power switch? I still haven't gotten that since I don't know the parts number...

They connect to the 24-0-24 marks by the power supply: blue to "24v", middle two to "0", and the green to "24v".

So both "24v"s are the same?

I would suggest going to Mnats site and downloading his wiring diagrams.

Do you mean this page? http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/1176-wiring.html


I might have to end up asking someone to do this for me for pay. I didn't know it would be this difficult.

Thanks

 

[imo]

I would encourage you to try this. The forum can be really helpful and i started this with abolutely no electrical knowledge at all. You do need to spend some time on the forums...If you use the search engine you can find Greg's parts list, he is a frequent poster and his information is very helpful. He has a comprehensive list for many of the projects listed here. Once you get the parts its really just a matter of following the pretty thorough discussions and working slowly and methodically
Ian

 

[erland]

The search engine doesn't work for me on this thread. I get the following error: PHP Fatal error: Maximum execution time of 30 seconds exceeded in D:\users\prodigy\Inetpub\wwwroot\forum\db\mysql4.php on line 214

I think I used Greg's parts list. The mains switch isn't listed though. I was planning on using Mouser parts # 103-0012, which is a DPDT switch. I got that number from a G9 BOM.

Thanks

 

[imo]

Greg's list uses a rotary switch, two pole i think. It is aesthetically nice, though a two pole toggle switch would work just as well

 

[erland]

Thanks. It looks I went by fallout's list.

I thought that it wasn't advised to use rotary switches for mains power for some reason. All my rack gear has either push-button or rocker switches. I also saw on a thread here someone commenting on the rotary switches.

 

[Greg]

erland, you are correct. However, Lorlin makes a rotary switch specifically for mains. I don't have a part number, but I got the datasheet of their website some time ago. In general, just make sure the switch is rated for high voltage... most toggles are rated for mains. If unsure, check the datasheet.