All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[W DeMarco]

Pretty sure your diode will work. It claims that its a cross ref for the 1N4740A. If your nervous about usin it you could order a few of this
512-1N4740A.

 

[glide 1]

[quote author="Rob Flinn"]

With the pcb in what I believe the normal orientation/position
how should the switch be orientated/placed in the holes?

It will operate the same in either position.[/quote]


Ok i searched and read a few posts concerning this but still not quite sure. Is this for the ratio switch and/or is this true for the meter switch aswell?

I noticed however that on mnats' meter pcb, there is an "A" mark, so i assume A on the lorlin leg goes to A marked on the board?.. can anyone confirm this, thanks in advance.

 

[sintech]

The lorlin switches will work with any orientation in the pcb, A or B or A, B, C and D types.

If it fits in the holes.. It will work :thumb:

 

[glide 1]

[quote author="sintech"]The lorlin switches will work with any orientation in the pcb, A or B or A, B, C and D types.

If it fits in the holes.. It will work :thumb:[/quote]


Got it, thanks sintech

 

[rbaker]

i bought a toroid from avel lindberg---a model that is not on their website (it's 25va) and I thought they said it was 25+25 output...I'm reading that it's 28+28....will this be ok or should I return it?

 

[gyraf]

transformers measure different with different load

 

[W DeMarco]

RBaker, go ahead use it, Sounds perfect! The whole power supply is gonna treat this voltage and prepare it for the power rail. And like G said under load your trans will put out differnet voltages.

Dub

 

[rbaker]

oh ok that makes sense.

learn something new everyday! :grin:

 

[byoung]

I am in the final stages of my dual mono/stereo 1176, using mnats boards and psu---- should I just use an spst switch and connect the two "stereo interconnect" pads together for "linked" operation? Should I use sheilded wire----if so where should I connect the shield?

Also what should I expect once they are connected and the switch is engaged? Will they just behave like two mono comps with the same signal in the sidechain---ie, I will still have the ability to tweak attack/release on each board separately, or will certain controls affect the other? Which board controls which?

I would love to figure out a way in which when the link switch is engaged that one set of controls could control both L/R channels, I was thinking maybe relays, but seems like I'd need quite a few...any ideas?

 

[gyraf]

should I just use an spst switch and connect the two "stereo interconnect" pads together for "linked" operation?

Look up the information about the 1176SA stereo adapter.

Don't expect too much from the stereo operation - 1176's were never good at that.

Jakob E.

 

[glide 1]

Hi all, just like to thank everyone here and most of all Mr. Gyraf and Mnats for a wonderful 1176 project. I now have my 1st 1176 working!! This is also my very first DIY project - so i'm stoked!!

I began to stuff the boards, being very carefull with resistor values especially, double, triple checking everything bofore soldering. Then did voltage checks of the board as to the 'reversed check plot' someone provided. All looked good so proceeded to connect everything up. Mnats' site on wiring the 1176 is so detailed it made wiring a breeze. i fired it up for the 1st time yesterday and much to my surprise - it worked right off....meter, all thr pots, everything!!

After 'calibrating' (not sure if i did this right) I had a chance to use it last night in a session i had recording bass and vocals mainly, and it worked like a charm, all 6 hrs non-stop. My first impression of the sound is that it seems that this compressor rolls off the high freq's a lot, bass freq's a little too but not as much as the highs. Another thing i noticed was with decent levels coming from the pre, i was consistenly at the 3 'oclock (sometimes more) position on the input pot and about the same for output going to my soundcard.

Questions:

*Are the rolloffs in the high frequencies that evident on these units or is there anything i could check on?

*Are my input pot positions (3 o'clock) normal? I also noticed while doing the voltage checks that my voltages were generally about .6-.8V lower than what was on there, could this be perhaps the reason my input seems a little low?

Anyways, i'm very happy with it right now and will probably use it a little more on different sources before doing any major adjustments or anything....

Again, A BIG THANK YOU to all here...



glide 1

 

[astrovic]

[quote author="glide 1"]Hi all, just like to thank everyone here and most of all Mr. Gyraf and Mnats for a wonderful 1176 project. I now have my 1st 1176 working!! This is also my very first DIY project - so i'm stoked!! [/quote]

:thumb: :sam:

[quote author="glide 1"]Mnats' site on wiring the 1176 is so detailed it made wiring a breeze.[/quote]

Isn't he a gem?

[quote author="glide 1"] i fired it up for the 1st time yesterday and much to my surprise - it worked right off....meter, all thr pots, everything!! [/quote]

Ok, now you're just showing off :wink:

[quote author="glide 1"] Questions:

*Are the rolloffs in the high frequencies that evident on these units or is there anything i could check on?

*Are my input pot positions (3 o'clock) normal? I also noticed while doing the voltage checks that my voltages were generally about .6-.8V lower than what was on there, could this be perhaps the reason my input seems a little low?[/quote]

The gurus around here might do with a little more information. Did you go a transformer or non-transformer for the input? If a transformer, which one? What trannie on output?

Happy squishing, man...oh, any pics?

 

[glide 1]

The gurus around here might do with a little more information. Did you go a transformer or non-transformer for the input? If a transformer, which one? What trannie on output?


Hi Astrovic, ok non-transformer input and an OEP output for this 1. The next one will have both OEP's input and out. I did voltage check it already and i'm seeing the same results as the 1st, lower voltages of about .8V across the board. Is this normal or should i be closer to those on the check plot?

Sorry no pics as of now but will take some when both units are done and i'll post. Man just so happy i got this working. I remember 2 years ago, reading the threads, wishing i could build 1 but was so intimidated not having any electronic skills and knowledge to tackle a project like this. It was only when i started to build that i got to appreciate ten fold what Gyraf and Mnats have done here, very gateful for that.

I hope my story will encourage newbies and future DIYers who are still on the fence as i was 2 years ago. Just do it, be meticulous about it, check, double check, triple check....If i can do it (of all poeple), so can you!!! :wink:

 

[rbaker]

edit:
nevermind, I found it earlier in the thread...the ratio changes the threshold.

I think I'm going to have to try adding that extra trimmer pot.

 

[Guest]

I fancy feeding my own PSU into this- so I have taken mnats advice on his website and jumpered allt he PSU connections

However - I want to feed my VU lamp manually and not via the board - so which components on the board can I leave out?

I am taking a uneducated guess at taking out the
10uf
220R
7824
and then jumper the 1k1 1 watt resistor

 

[byoung]

Look up the information about the 1176SA stereo adapter.

So even if I match my FET's I should still use this box? I'm really confused...there are people here on the forum who seem to just use a cable and switch and then others that say to use the box??? Which way is easiest or best or right?

In looking at this box it requires sheilded cable to and from, so I guess I need to find a point at which to ground the sheild of my stereo interconnect link...is this correct?

Also for a stereo unit would it be more beneficial---or even possible--- to control two 1176 boards from one set of pots?

 

[rbaker]

I have a question about the attack release pots. I followed Mnats directions to determin cw/ccw (using the dmm etc) and wired them up.

The attack and release settings seemed to be "backwards". I fliped the 2 wires (cw and ccw) on each and thought I fixed it.

Then I just read that I had it right at first---ie: that slow is to the right and fast is to the left. While that might be the original way, that throws me off.

They are linear pots---can I leave them backwards to save myself headaches or is that going to interfere with something else??

oh yeah...that's CUSTOM! :shock:

 

[gyraf]

..original units had fast at cw..

 

[API]

Hi.

Spent a few hours today in the Farnell catalog shopping for the last parts for my two Mnats boards that i am going to finish this weekend.
But i am unsure about a few things.
Can anyone help??

1. How large power transformer do need? Is 25va enough?

2. The BC 107´s should these be NPN or PNP.
Also, should they be "just" BC107, or the A or B version??

3. The BC560, these should be PNP, right?

4. Does the 1K1 carbon resistor need to be 1w and 1k1 exactly??
Could only find 1/2 watts in the Farnell catalog, does anyone know a source in Europe?

5. Does anyone know where i can find the 1N4740A Zener diode in Europe?
Farnell did not have that either.

6. The switches, should these be shorting or non-shorting??

Sorry if some of these questions seems a bit stupid, just want to get everything right!

Would appriciate any help, want to order stuff tomorrow!

Regards,
Dennis

 

[louder]

alo Dennis
as for the 1k1 resistor,i paralleded two 2k2 resistors.
as for the 1n4740A,musikding.de carries them.
as for the BC560,get the BC560c.
anyway just read all the 1176 pages.there`s everything there.
best regards
pedro