abechap024
Well-known member
nebula said:Hi Abe,
Looking at the latest BOM, I see the Molex headers - you specify Molex, the series, the pin shape - maybe you could simply include the Molex part number? It would probably save builders like me heaps of collective time.
Molex has many many many different styles of headers and receptacles. Many many many different types will work. It depends on what you want. Also many different companies provide headers, Molex just seems synonymous with headers, kinda like Kleenex is really just facial tissue. Many many different types will work. But I know for a lot of people sifting through that many options can be time consuming (I know) So I'll try and add some generic part numbers to make everything a bit easier.
Good question. I offer the kits with the 2180A VCA, just cause - for 3 bucks more - why not. But on the same token I'm running the 2180B's in mine, cause I haven't measured very much different distortion between A and B variants and usually the 160vu is used when you want a little "color" or what have you. Not something like the stereo buss. Then again its very tricky to accurately measure different specifications in VCA's because by their very nature. Sound wise - granted this isn't a blind test by any means -but just the general impression of the different VCAs, The A sounded more transparent and while the B didn't sound bad, it maybe didn't sound quite as clear. Again, that could just be my bias of what I'm expecting the different parts to soundlike.How much it will matter whether we use the "A", "B" or "C" variants of the 2180 VCA?
Have you used the "Collective" case? There are a few minor things I'm wondering about that as well... I think I'd like to use 1/4" TRS in instead of the XLR connectors. Are they punched for the Neutrik "D" XLR? Will there be room for a larger toroid than the one you're recommending? I don't know the hole sizes, so can you recommend a particular 20K pot to use for this configuration? Oh, and their web site shows a "CLX-160" graphic on the case, but this project is called "CLX-VU" - is that the way it's staying? Is there a provision for a main power switch that will kill power to the transformer?
Yes I have a Collective case, And you need higher stand-offs to get the boards in correctly. Also I don't like using XLR on my line level equipment, just personal preference, I know most all other studios seem to favor the XLR on everything...The Collective cases work quite well, and are very nice. They are pre-punched with XLR, but if you want to use TRS an easy fix is to get a piece of metal and cut it in a rectangle so it fits behind the XLR jack holes and use the screw holes for the XLR jacks to screw the piece of metal tight. Then drill a 1/4" hole for the TRS jacks in the piece of metal covering the XLR holes. And I wouldn't get too hung up on the name, I think me and Dan for Collective cases spoke generally about the project being called CLX-VU, or CLX 160. or something. CLX is 160 in roman numerals so that's my reasoning behind CLX-VU.
As of now if you want to purchase a correct scaled meter you need to contact DBX and they charge upwards of a 100$ so I'm told. I've talked to Mike from hairball about supplying a custom Scaled meter. But I think we came to the conclusion that the meters are very simple to change the scale (you just pop off the front and the scale slides out.) check the top of this thread you can print out your own custom scale and even add a logo or whatever if you like.Does the Hairball meter you're recommending have a correctly printed scale for i/o levels as well as gain reduction?
Anyway: thanks for what looks like it's going to become a great DIY project. I can't wait to hear these puppies in action!
Well thanks for your optimism!! This project does sound good, I'm finding correct calibration plays a big part on getting this unit to sound optimal. Mainly setting up the RMS unit wave symetry. Using the trimmer on the REV 2 boards it makes it much easier to correctly set up the RMS unit. Originally DBX had factory workers with big resistor switchers just solder in the correct one after the unit was all assembled. I'm expecting to be finished with the manual this week, covering many questions that I expect builders to run into.
Thanks!
Abe