CLX-VU Build Thread (DBX 160VU ) UPDATE: REV 3

[abechap024]

I'm not sure I understand "asymmetric" but maybe you mean unbalanced? In that case you will just use pin 2 for audio.

To use a LED VU meter, just attach the input of the VU meter to the output of the PCB "meter" and it should work just fine. You might have to mess with the sensitivity but you should get it to work.

 

[brewbacca]

Has anybody else had issues with the meter and/or threshold running backwards?

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

I'm not sure I understand "asymmetric" but maybe you mean? In that case you will just use pin 2 for audio.

To use a LED VU meter, just attach the input of the VU meter to the output of the PCB "meter" and it should work just fine. You might have to mess with the sensitivity but you should get it to work.

Thanks  abechap024 for your answer ! yes when i write asymetric i think  unbalanced ( sorry i'm french .... )

I have just see a new problem on my CLX board : my INPUT is Unbalanced : audio IN pin 3 Ground pin1 + pin 2 BUT My OUTPUT is UNBLANCED ???? why ? i have no Sym to the OUTPUT of the CLX Board ?

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

Hi Quote !

i have the same problem of Unbalanced signal on my OUTPUT before R92 i have sound and after no sound ....

do you have fix the problem ?

I have a problem with pin3 on the output.
There's almost no signal on it.
Output pin2 is ok, has full signal, but pin3 has signal so weak that it's almost non-existent.

I went tracing signal with probe around the output and found out that on the input leg of the R92 signal is full, but on it's output leg there's a big drop. Replaced R92 (22K1) in case it is somehow wrong, but that didn't fix the problem.
I then checked values of R103, R92, C35 and C32 and they all seem ok.
No cold solder joints also...

I don't understand...
help!

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

The Cap C35 was dead ....i change it, but after reboot the cap dead again ....

idea ?

i can leave the 1n Caps C32 ? it's optional ?



thx

 

[miko]

Hello fellow DIY folks. I'm stil pretty noob at diy projects and i dont know if this is the correct place to ask this, but what BOMS do i have to order to build this dbx? Because you have the main bom, the THAT bom etc. Wich ones do i need? Thanks

 

[hotel valkenburg]

Hello Miko.
i would start by reading the Rev 3 Manual abe made. its linked on the first page of this thread.
its got a lot of useful information. there are a few different options for VCA and RMS so its up to you to decide which BOM's you need.
there are also components that are on the main board that change depending on the VCA and RMS options you choose. (T) <--hint
read carefully, a couple times through and it should all make sense.

goodluck

 

[miko]

Wow i totaly missed that manual, it's so clear.
thank u verry much.
But then i wanted to order the THAT chips...
there are 3 kinds: the A,B, and C
what version do i need and what is the difference?
(sorry for al these noob questions  :-\)

 

[hotel valkenburg]

if you dig through the data sheet a bit youll find they are very similar.
it appears the only difference is some cost, harmonic distortion and offset voltages.
i didn't dig too deep just a quick glance. i actually ended up using the original 200 series vca can on my build, so i didn't do any research in this area.
that being said a quick search on this thread reveals:

abechap024: " I offer the kits with the 2180A VCA, just cause - for 3 bucks more - why not. But on the same token I'm running the 2180B's in mine, cause I haven't measured very much different distortion between A and B variants and usually the 160vu is used when you want a little "color" or what have you. Not something like the stereo buss. Then again its very tricky to accurately measure different specifications in VCA's because by their very nature. Sound wise - granted this isn't a blind test by any means -but just the general impression of the different VCAs, The A sounded more transparent and while the B didn't sound bad, it maybe didn't sound quite as clear. Again, that could just be my bias of what I'm expecting the different parts to soundlike."

 

[Spencerleehorton]

Hi All,

for C21 does it have to be exactly 4.7uf or could i get away with 6.8uf?

regards

Spence.

 

[Dr Gris]

About to do some shopping from Mouser. What do you guys use to mount the switches from Hairball?

Cheers
//M

 

[MLAudio]

Are these kits still available for order? If so, where? Thanks.

 

[Dr Gris]

Abe has the PCB's for sale here:
http://store.acsoundstudio.com/pcb/

I think the parts kit is out of stock though.
The case I have is from collectivecases.com
It's for a dual unit.

Bumping my latest question, does anybody know the name for those headless screws to
use when you mount the switch banks to the case, or something else that works?
I guess the size is 4-40?

Best
Magnus

 

[Spencerleehorton]

Anyone help answer this please?

Hi All,

for C21 does it have to be exactly 4.7uf or could i get away with 6.8uf?

regards

Spence.

 

[abechap024]

Anyone help answer this please?

Hi All,

for C21 does it have to be exactly 4.7uf or could i get away with 6.8uf?

regards

Spence.

Making it bigger will only extend the LF cuttoff so that would be totally fine. instead of 0.1hz it will be 0.01hz or something obscure like that. In practice no difference!

 

[Spencerleehorton]

Hi guys,

Couple of questions regarding this build, the 4 gang switch I have for each channel has the power switch then the 3 other switches for in/GR/out, It seems that when you press the power switch in it stays depressed but when you press one of the other switches it will power off the unit?
I can't work out how to latch these switches either separately or together!
Also I have run out of the LM301 chips but have read a NE5534 could work with something else connected?

I am at the stage of just finishing off filling the boards, so don't have a case yet or a power transformer, but need to sort out this little bits before I carry on.

Regards

Spence.

 

[Dr Gris]

I'm sorry I can't help with the chips...
But the power switch stays in when it's off, you turn it on with any other switch,
and it stays on showing in/GR/out on the meter with the other switches.
I hope I was clear???

Best
Magnus

 

[Spencerleehorton]

Hi,
And is this the same with the other 4 gang switches on the right hand channel which wouldn't be used for power it would be used for the link switch?
Is there any drawings or documentation to show how this is wired as I'm not getting how this is implemented for a stereo unit.
If there isn't any documentation would probably be a really good thing for people building a stereo unit like myself.

Also I've been told to build a stereo unit I should be able to get away with a 12va transformer 2 x 18v could anyone confirm this please?


Regards

Spence.

Still confused!

 

[beatnik]

I've bought an original 160 VU from a studio closeout sale. Not working but price was too good to resist, worth trying to repair.

First thing to sort out is the power transformer. The panel says this unit is for 110V, and i need to wire it for 220V operation.

The transformer has five wires for the primary, but the schematic only shows four wires on the primary, without color coding.

If anybody has info on that power transformer and how to hook up the primaries for 220V operation, would be very appreciated.

My guess is i should connect the primaries in series, and the remaining wire would be for ground connection, but I am not really sure and I don't want to make mistakes here as I could fry the pt.

 

[EmptyMusicBox1]

hello

i try to use a LED Meter for the GR on the CLX

i think i need to find a other point to wire the Meter because the LED MEter work " reverse" on the "VU point of the Board  " ALL the LED = No compression " !!!

where i can find a Positiv voltage for my LED MEter GR

idee ?

thanks for your Help